1966 dart disk brakes

[alaskadartgt]

so i have pretty much decided to go with the scarebird front disk brake conversion.
and i have also decided to stick with manual brakes. do i have to change my
brake master cly. ? their instruction sheet says to go to 73-75 dart master.
i emailed them asking basically why and if it was because the 66 original is a single res.
and the newer one is a double res. they simply said the single would work, but instruction sheet states "for best performance" use 73-75 disk brake master. any
help would be appreciated. thanks


also not to sound like a total idiot..... how do i "thanks" someone on here?

 

[66fs]

so i have pretty much decided to go with the scarebird front disk brake conversion.
and i have also decided to stick with manual brakes. do i have to change my
brake master cly. ? their instruction sheet says to go to 73-75 dart master.
i emailed them asking basically why and if it was because the 66 original is a single res.
and the newer one is a double res. they simply said the single would work, but instruction sheet states "for best performance" use 73-75 disk brake master. any
help would be appreciated. thanks


also not to sound like a total idiot..... how do i "thanks" someone on here?

I doubt you will have enough fluid reserve with the original single drum brake master cylinder. You would also have to remove the residual pressure valve at the master cylinder since you do not want any pressure on the fluid in disc calipers. It is also safer to convert to a dual reservoir. I went with a 67-72 master cylinder on my 66 Cuda with original K-H Discs.

To thank someone, just hit the "Thanks" button on their post.

 

[396 Signet]

I doubt you will have enough fluid reserve with the original single drum brake master cylinder. You would also have to remove the residual pressure valve at the master cylinder since you do not want any pressure on the fluid in disc calipers. It is also safer to convert to a dual reservoir. I went with a 67-72 master cylinder on my 66 Cuda with original K-H Discs.

x2, what I used. Only problem is finding a good one, all the replacements I found were made in China, have very bad luck with durability with them, even the pricey ones from NAPA which are just rebadged ones in their box. I've gone the route of sleeving w/ stainless & finding a NOS rebuild kit. What you need is a 1" bore MC for good pedal feel, there are others that will work, just make sure you have a residual valve for the drums & no valve for the discs.

 

[BillGrissom]

Ditto. 2-reservoir is safer. Many use a later aluminum 2-bolt type w/ an 2-4 bolt adapter plate ($30 ebay). You will need to plumb a proportioning valve for your rear drums (assumes you are keeping). Some use a factory "combination valve" (~$75) or a simpler adjustable proportioning valve ($30 ebay).

 

[66340SEDAN]

Ditto. 2-reservoir is safer. Many use a later aluminum 2-bolt type w/ an 2-4 bolt adapter plate ($30 ebay). You will need to plumb a proportioning valve for your rear drums (assumes you are keeping). Some use a factory "combination valve" (~$75) or a simpler adjustable proportioning valve ($30 ebay).

I did exactly this in my 66 and works great.

 

[dustinho]

Gentlemen,

I am looking at purchasing disk brakes for my sons 66. What is everyone opinion on which set up is the easiest and best to go with aftermarket wise? Looking to do front only. I am going to surprise him when he comes back from deployment in May. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

 

[66Dvert]

Gentlemen,

I am looking at purchasing disk brakes for my sons 66. What is everyone opinion on which set up is the easiest and best to go with aftermarket wise? Looking to do front only. I am going to surprise him when he comes back from deployment in May. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

if the suspension is in great to new shape you can go with the latermodel disc brake setup. you will have to replace/use the later model upper control arms and get it aligned afterwards. the track will be slightly wider in the front. it may also come with your standard 5 on 4" bolt pattern or 5 on 4.5" so make sure which bolt pattern you are going to use and ask the seller what it was/is. you can source the pads,bushings(use the moog offset for more adjustment in your alignment) and sometimes rotors for this swap locally no problem with any of the wheels fitting this setup. cost around 200 for the spindles and upper control arms plus the new hoses,rotors/pad/calipers,master cylinder,proportioning valve, offset bushings and alignment.

or if you want to skip the alignment and upper control arm swap you can get the scarebird setup and source all parts locally except for the drum/disc proportioning valve. since you might have the stock single pot master cylinder on there still. either way you use the existing hub and back drill the studs out to use longer studs for either setup. in order to keep the 5 on 4" bolt pattern you have to get the rotors drilled (or do it yourself using the supplied pattern, make copies for the other rotor) or to got to 5 on 4.5" you just drill the hubs to the rotor pattern and use 1/2 screw in studs. There is some issue on the skinny 14" rims fitting that I have heard of. But I have had stock 14 steel rims (big bolt pattern)on mine with no issues. I did grind a bump off one of the calipers to get it to fit the bracket but the other one fit the same bracket..casting error somewhere down the line.
cost brackets 115.00 plus new hoses,rotors/pad/calipers,master cylinder,proportioning valve



or you could get the other aftermarket, kits plenty are out there like SBC?? wildwood, summit. but the top 2 seem to be the cheapest way to go. my worry about the aftermarket kit like jegs,summit and others is replacement parts and how long it'll take to get em. but they sure do have some nice monster sized calipers. just one of those calipers from viper on those huge rotors would probably stop 2 of my cars

 

[dustinho]

if the suspension is in great to new shape you can go with the latermodel disc brake setup. you will have to replace/use the later model upper control arms and get it aligned afterwards. the track will be slightly wider in the front. it may also come with your standard 5 on 4" bolt pattern or 5 on 4.5" so make sure which bolt pattern you are going to use and ask the seller what it was/is. you can source the pads,bushings(use the moog offset for more adjustment in your alignment) and sometimes rotors for this swap locally no problem with any of the wheels fitting this setup. cost around 200 for the spindles and upper control arms plus the new hoses,rotors/pad/calipers,master cylinder,proportioning valve, offset bushings and alignment.

or if you want to skip the alignment and upper control arm swap you can get the scarebird setup and source all parts locally except for the drum/disc proportioning valve. since you might have the stock single pot master cylinder on there still. either way you use the existing hub and back drill the studs out to use longer studs for either setup. in order to keep the 5 on 4" bolt pattern you have to get the rotors drilled (or do it yourself using the supplied pattern, make copies for the other rotor) or to got to 5 on 4.5" you just drill the hubs to the rotor pattern and use 1/2 screw in studs. There is some issue on the skinny 14" rims fitting that I have heard of. But I have had stock 14 steel rims (big bolt pattern)on mine with no issues. I did grind a bump off one of the calipers to get it to fit the bracket but the other one fit the same bracket..casting error somewhere down the line.
cost brackets 115.00 plus new hoses,rotors/pad/calipers,master cylinder,proportioning valve



or you could get the other aftermarket, kits plenty are out there like SBC?? wildwood, summit. but the top 2 seem to be the cheapest way to go. my worry about the aftermarket kit like jegs,summit and others is replacement parts and how long it'll take to get em. but they sure do have some nice monster sized calipers. just one of those calipers from viper on those huge rotors would probably stop 2 of my cars

Thanks for your help! I will go after market. Have you heard if SBC or Summit has a better package? I will have my friends shop doing the work and would like to make it as easy as possible for them so the hours do not add up.

 

[66Dvert]

Thanks for your help! I will go after market. Have you heard if SBC or Summit has a better package? I will have my friends shop doing the work and would like to make it as easy as possible for them so the hours do not add up.

I have no info on that. But you need to make sure what bolt pattern you can get from them others have done the swap but I can't remember if they could get the small bolt pattern or had to go to Big bolt pattern. if your staying Small bolt pattern then you'll need to ask the vendors.

 

[dustinho]

I have no info on that. But you need to make sure what bolt pattern you can get from them others have done the swap but I can't remember if they could get the small bolt pattern or had to go to Big bolt pattern. if your staying Small bolt pattern then you'll need to ask the vendors.

Thanks. I prefer to keep it 5x4 bolt pattern as we already have american racing wheels on it. Will do my research.

 

[dustinho]

I have no info on that. But you need to make sure what bolt pattern you can get from them others have done the swap but I can't remember if they could get the small bolt pattern or had to go to Big bolt pattern. if your staying Small bolt pattern then you'll need to ask the vendors.

I just got off the phone with my father and he reminded me that we actually bought a set of disc brakes off a 73 or 74 duster that is the small bolt pattern a few years ago at a swap meet. I have been told those will work however will it bolt right up or is there more work to it (which I am sure it will not). I believe it had the spindles, calipers, etc. with them. What your thoughts on that set up?

 

[BillGrissom]

Many posts on that swap. You can keep your lower control arm, but must change the upper arm to 73+ or buy the special tapered adapter for the ball joint stud.

You are the first to ever mention a 73+ disk brake hub w/ small bolt pattern studs. Are you sure you are measuring the bolt circle correctly (see tirerack.com)? Are your sure it isn't the 64-72 front disk setup? Many photos here to compare.

 

[66fs]

Many posts on that swap. You can keep your lower control arm, but must change the upper arm to 73+ or buy the special tapered adapter for the ball joint stud.

You are the first to ever mention a 73+ disk brake hub w/ small bolt pattern studs. Are you sure you are measuring the bolt circle correctly (see tirerack.com)? Are your sure it isn't the 64-72 front disk setup? Many photos here to compare.

Have to agree, double check what you have. 73 up discs should big bolt pattern. hopefully they are 72 down and K-H discs. Any pictures?

 

[Clroads]

This vendor was at Carlisle this summer.

http://www.theramman.com

 

[dustinho]

Many posts on that swap. You can keep your lower control arm, but must change the upper arm to 73+ or buy the special tapered adapter for the ball joint stud.

You are the first to ever mention a 73+ disk brake hub w/ small bolt pattern studs. Are you sure you are measuring the bolt circle correctly (see tirerack.com)? Are your sure it isn't the 64-72 front disk setup? Many photos here to compare.

It could be from a 72. It has been a few years since we picked them up. I bought them because they were 5x4. The gentlemen kept saying they were from his gold duster that was optioned out with a V6.

My hope is to go and grab the car around xmas time. I will grab some pics then.

I appreciate all the help!

 

[dustinho]

Have to agree, double check what you have. 73 up discs should big bolt pattern. hopefully they are 72 down and K-H discs. Any pictures?

It could be from a 72. Just can't remember. When I measured it was 5x4. I will get pictures on here around xmas time when I can get up to the car.

 

[clifcuda65]

Ditto. 2-reservoir is safer. Many use a later aluminum 2-bolt type w/ an 2-4 bolt adapter plate ($30 ebay). You will need to plumb a proportioning valve for your rear drums (assumes you are keeping). Some use a factory "combination valve" (~$75) or a simpler adjustable proportioning valve ($30 ebay).

Double Ditto... On my 65 Cuda I went with the aluminum 2-bolt type MC with adapter plate and a proportioning valve... Works great... And just to note... I have the SSBC front disk brake kit and it came with BOTH bolt patterns 5 on 4 and 5 on 4.5... (all studs were included)

 

[Mopar Tim]

I will tell you the scarebird adapters work well. It all bolted togather no problems. However you can just about forget about keeping non power brake setup. It stops ok but not good enough as far as im concerned. I put in power brake setup and a HUGE improvement. JMO.

 

[clifcuda65]

I will tell you the scarebird adapters work well. It all bolted togather no problems. However you can just about forget about keeping non power brake setup. It stops ok but not good enough as far as im concerned. I put in power brake setup and a HUGE improvement. JMO.

Well... I'm Very happy with my MANUAL front Disk system... Stops "WAY" better then the 10 inch front drums...

I also love manual steering... (just saying) but as anything... it's owner preference !!!

I'm 155 lbs soaking wet with cell phone in pocket... So I don't think it's a Muscle Mass issue

Clif of Az :coffee2:

 

[66Dvert]

I will tell you the scarebird adapters work well. It all bolted togather no problems. However you can just about forget about keeping non power brake setup. It stops ok but not good enough as far as im concerned. I put in power brake setup and a HUGE improvement. JMO.

did you try a smaller bore master? (I might be backwards on this better check to make sure)
I think a larger bore master gives you more(fluid) and more pedal effort but shorter pedal travel. a smaller bore means less(fluid) and less pedal effort but more travel. I went from a 1" bore to a 15/16 bore and there was a significant difference in effort and only 1" more travel on the pedal. it felt a lot easier than the bigger bore master cylinder.

 

[dustinho]

Double Ditto... On my 65 Cuda I went with the aluminum 2-bolt type MC with adapter plate and a proportioning valve... Works great... And just to note... I have the SSBC front disk brake kit and it came with BOTH bolt patterns 5 on 4 and 5 on 4.5... (all studs were included)

I like your set up! Is that master cylinder sold with front disk brake kit or separate?

 

[clifcuda65]

I like your set up! Is that master cylinder sold with front disk brake kit or separate?

dustinho... The SSBC front disk brake Kit 153-2 came with a cast iron MC that I just didn't care much for, so I used the smaller aluminum two bolt type with the 2-4 bolt adapter plate !!!


Clif of Az :coffee2:

 

[dustinho]

dustinho... The SSBC front disk brake Kit 153-2 came with a cast iron MC that I just didn't care much for, so I used the smaller aluminum two bolt type with the 2-4 bolt adapter plate !!!


Clif of Az :coffee2:

OK thanks. Where did you get the smaller alum MC with adapter?

 

[pishta]

disk spindles use a larger LCA mounting bolt than a drum spindle. I drilled my 65 drum LCA 1/2 bolt holes to 9/16 and mounted up some 67 disk spindles. works fine, need dual M/C for safety and capacity. not mandatory but smart. Single pot disk M/C had the donut reservoir extension for the increased disk piston (8!) volume.