1976harley
my 66 valiant signet
hey there I want to change the 6x9 speaker in the front dash how do u take the front dash board off does any body no out there I would be appreciate it
1966 valiant convertable
- Thread starter 1976harley
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KitCarlson
Well-Known Member
I have done that decades ago. If I remember, you do it from underneath. Start by taking (-) lead off battery. Then remove radio, it is above that. Might need other dash parts as heater control, glove box or ash tray to improve working room. Taking out front seat(s) helps too. Under dash work places your body in difficult positions.
I also seem to remember the original 6x9 had a small magnet, if the replacement has a huge magnet, there can be conflict.
I also seem to remember the original 6x9 had a small magnet, if the replacement has a huge magnet, there can be conflict.
convx4
Well-Known Member
To remove the dash the windshield has to be removed. Like Kitcarlson said work from underneath the dash. Remove the radio and heater controls. The speaker was a 4x6 if I remember correctly. If you are looking for blue door panels with round speakers cut into them I will trade you for a nice blue drivers door panel.
1976harley
my 66 valiant signet
wow that sux they sure don t make it easy I'm installing a deck in the glove box and keeping the stock deck to keep the original look so I wanted to put a fresh speaker in there but I think I use the one that's in there for now but thanks good to no!! and I'm looking for washer reservoir mine cracked
1976harley
my 66 valiant signet
this my car
KitCarlson
Well-Known Member
Nice car!
1976harley
my 66 valiant signet
thanks buddy I'm new to the site were would I find a washer bottle on this web site
KitCarlson
Well-Known Member
Check Classic Industries, there may be others too.
Classic Industries | Restoration Parts | Mopar Parts | Camaro Parts | Firebird Parts | Nova Parts | Impala Parts | GM Truck Parts | Tri-Five Chevy Parts
Classic Industries | Restoration Parts | Mopar Parts | Camaro Parts | Firebird Parts | Nova Parts | Impala Parts | GM Truck Parts | Tri-Five Chevy Parts
1976harley
my 66 valiant signet
right on thanks there is one there
Nice car!
To remove the dash the windshield must be removed first.
But you should be able to replace speaker without removing the whole dash.
Someone on FABO made a bracket that mounts two smaller modern speakers.
Here you can see the original speaker & bracket is held on by two nuts.
The Early A-Body Forum: My new '66 Valiant Signet Convertible - Thanks jaXed!
To remove the dash the windshield must be removed first.
But you should be able to replace speaker without removing the whole dash.
Someone on FABO made a bracket that mounts two smaller modern speakers.
Here you can see the original speaker & bracket is held on by two nuts.
The Early A-Body Forum: My new '66 Valiant Signet Convertible - Thanks jaXed!
tntperk
Well-Known Member
Good looking car!
66Dvert
Working on my custom car parts again!
I made and added these to mine after I made and twin 3 inch adapter for the dash speaker, since convertible don't have much space for speakers and I wanted more sound.
It's definitely not a 6x9 from the factory. IIRC it's 4x10 or some other odd size. You should be able to remove it while laying on the floor. It's called the dashboard boogie. One of the members here makes an adaptor plate to mount (2) 4" side-by-side.
66dartgt
Well-Known Member
I did the same removal and install on my 66 dart vert. It is a 6X9 speaker. Sometime later they went to a 4X10 speaker for the dash, maybe 67 ?
You will have to take out the radio, and heater controls in all likelyhood. I installed a dual voice coil speaker in its place. The retro radio outfits like custom sound etc sell these.
I also bought a pair of the kick panels that Dvert talks about above and installed speakers in them. I believe he was making and selling these a while ago. Very nice parts and they work great. Just need to pay attention to the depth of your speakers. First pair of speakers I bought were too deep and interferred with installation.
66Dvert
Working on my custom car parts again!
thanks 66dartgt
do you have a picture of the install? I still have not seen any of my kick panels installed and other than the slimline (or lack of depth) there has not been any feedback concerning the fit of the part to the car. I'm always shooting for a better part.
Yup those were the slimline style. 2 inch or less depth speakers. I'm working on a modified mold for 2.7 inch speakers with and without the little 1 inch remote speaker. My wife wants me to do 4'x6 for the front and rear panel of her 66 convertible when I start on it. I'm thinking an add on pod to the rear side panel near the foot-well that's my choice. or she wants me to make the whole panel out of ABS and have a speaker molded right in using a 4x6 inch oval pointed forwards and on the angle so the front seat gets the sound
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66dartgt
Well-Known Member
Sorry for the late post here, I'll get out to the garage in the next day or so and take some pics. I ended up using some rockford fosgate speakers in those panels. I do not recall the actual model number of the speaker. I mocked the panels up in place and then measured the max depth that would work. I then studied various speakers for depth of installation specs and selected them that way.....
I have a 66 Valiant, and just got done replacing the in-dash speaker. I did it working from the bottom up, and DID NOT have to remove the dash. First I had to remove the radio, then the heater controls. Once that was done I took out the defroster vent lines to give better access for elbows and hands.
Previous to my ownership, someone had replaced the original speaker with a butchered job installing a pair of 3-1/2" speakers. I removed and discarded these to get a clean palate to work with.
For my install, I found two studs mounted in the dash at 11-1/2" CTC. These were used to secure the former as well as the new speaker mounting boards. The studs were on raised bosses which were about 1/8" tall. The distance between the bosses was about 9-1/4".
For speaker choice, Retrosound sells a replacement dual voice-coil 6x9 that I believe would work in my application and yours. Either speaker option will need a mounting plate fabricated to go between the studs, and to give the speaker something to be bolted into. For my installation, I made a mounting board out of 1/2" plywood, measuring 9x6-1/2". I cut holes in it for a pair of 4" speakers, with about 3/8" of material separating the two. I put foam weatherstrip from a roll of household window/door stripping around the perimeter of the top (dash) side, to allow for bowing of the dash (it is not flat on the bottom side) and to give a good seal with no rattles. I used a bit of plumber's tape to mount from the studs to the plywood. In my mind, this is a short-to-medium term mounting situation, to be revisited if necessary.
This explanation might appear to be as clear as Chinese arithmetic. If you would a verbal description and more photos, feel free to send me a PM.
All the above is, of course, based on assumed similarity of models. I'm not expert, but it looks like you have a Canadian Valiant, which appears to be the same thing as a US Dart.
Zach
Previous to my ownership, someone had replaced the original speaker with a butchered job installing a pair of 3-1/2" speakers. I removed and discarded these to get a clean palate to work with.
For my install, I found two studs mounted in the dash at 11-1/2" CTC. These were used to secure the former as well as the new speaker mounting boards. The studs were on raised bosses which were about 1/8" tall. The distance between the bosses was about 9-1/4".
For speaker choice, Retrosound sells a replacement dual voice-coil 6x9 that I believe would work in my application and yours. Either speaker option will need a mounting plate fabricated to go between the studs, and to give the speaker something to be bolted into. For my installation, I made a mounting board out of 1/2" plywood, measuring 9x6-1/2". I cut holes in it for a pair of 4" speakers, with about 3/8" of material separating the two. I put foam weatherstrip from a roll of household window/door stripping around the perimeter of the top (dash) side, to allow for bowing of the dash (it is not flat on the bottom side) and to give a good seal with no rattles. I used a bit of plumber's tape to mount from the studs to the plywood. In my mind, this is a short-to-medium term mounting situation, to be revisited if necessary.
This explanation might appear to be as clear as Chinese arithmetic. If you would a verbal description and more photos, feel free to send me a PM.
All the above is, of course, based on assumed similarity of models. I'm not expert, but it looks like you have a Canadian Valiant, which appears to be the same thing as a US Dart.
Zach
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