1968 Valiant 3 speed

[Moparbrad]

Hello. I recently picked up a 68 Valiant 100 with a 170cuin and 3 speed manual transmission, shifted on the column. The previous owner took the trans out to replace the clutch. He also took off all the linkages, both clutch and shift, and lost some of it. Also, installed a different bell housing for some reason or another but I have the original. I need to know if anyone has a diagram or can take pictures of the way all the shift linkage goes together and looks? I have a hodgepodge of parts, some duplicates, some things missing. I’ve tried a few different configurations but the rods hit the clutch fork!

- is the Z bar the same for slant 6 and small block?
- is the clutch fork supposed to be 12.5 inches long?

Thanks for any help.

 

[kursplat]

why the new thread?

 

[Moparbrad]

I posted in the automatic column first on accident. Then reposted in the manual section.

 

[AJ/FormS]

is the Z bar the same for slant 6 and small block?
- is the clutch fork supposed to be 12.5 inches long?

No neither of them is the same;
IIRC
the slanty forks are shorter; being 10.75 or something. and
the Z-bar inboard lever is closer to the trans
BrewersPerformance has pictures, and specs,and descriptions.

 

[kursplat]

I posted in the automatic column first on accident. Then reposted in the manual section.

another 68' and no pics? man your killin' me

 

[Moparbrad]

No neither of them is the same;
IIRC
the slanty forks are shorter; being 10.75 or something. and
the Z-bar inboard lever is closer to the trans
BrewersPerformance has pictures, and specs,and descriptions.

So according to Brewers, the slant 6 uses an 8 inch tube Z bar. The 10.5 inch fork says it’s used on 63-66 A body. Nothing mentioned about 67 up 6 cylinder cars. The fork I got with the car is 10.5 but the clutch rod from the Z bar to the fork is at a bad angle. I’m thinking a 12.5 will put the rod straight in to the fork. But I’m not sure what’s correct.

 

[Moparbrad]

another 68' and no pics? man your killin' me

had to get another one. I missed the green one! Hahaha!

 

[kursplat]

nice, that will look good next to the green one when you're ready to sell

 

[AJ/FormS]

when the parts are correct;
the ball-ends will locate the Z-bar parallel to the ground and at 90* to the vehicle's centerline.
The outboard lever will locate the downrod from the clutch pedal in about the center of the firewall window.
The freeplay adjuster/pushrod will connect the inboard Z-bar lever to the TO fork, in such a manner as to be about parallel to the ground in side view, and parallel to the centerline of the vehicle in plan view...
With the freeplay adjusted,the TO fork should be near the forward edge of the window, leaving just enough room to install the rubber boot.
There should be an anti-rattle spring pulling the TO fork forward towards the engine in such a manner as to pull the TO bearing OFF the clutch fingers.
The over-center spring, under the dash, should pull the pedal back up off the floor, and onto it's stopper.
You can run as little freeplay as you like, as long as the TO bearing stays off the clutch fingers. If it gets to spinning full-time, it won't last long. The norm is 1 inch.
Clutch departure should be adequate at .080inch

IDK for sure but I think the short fork (10.5) fits the early As and 9.5 inch clutches.
Most other A-bodies with the 10.5 clutch, use the 12.5 fork