Clutch and Fan: Thanks to a member on FBBO, I was able to acquire a correct 18” clutch fan #2863215 (the numbers can be found on every blade). Even though the fan was in good condition, I measured and marked every blade on both planes and corrected some blades a few mm. Once the fan was again in perfect shape, it got bead blasted and painted. Correct NOS fan clutches #2863266 are hard to find and if, quite expensive, so I went with an alternative: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=815318&jsn=656 To my luck, the previous owner preserved the original and correct 22” radiator and matching fan shroud. The direct fan which was installed before is now up for sale.
AC Compressor part#2: Instead of guide pins, I used some stud bolts to align the head gaskets, valve plates, and cylinder heads - worked fine too. During the assembly, I coated all surfaces with Ester UV dye. Unfortunately, I forgot to take a picture of two very important parts - the rubber ball and spring, those go in the bore leading to the oil pump. It's imperative to have the spring and ball installed. After attaching the oil sump, the compressor got its final paint coat in semi-gloss black.
In order to make space for the compressor, I had to reroute the gas line from the fuel pump closer to the timing cover. A short piece of rubber hose acts as an additional protector between the gas line and cover. After installing the compressor I tested the magnetic clutch by connecting it to the battery. Clutch engages and spins the compressor crank without slipping - so far so good.
Lookin good. If you want to get really picky and detailed, the spark plug wire separators were on the engine when it was painted. Same for the negative battery cable, which should have overspray on the end close to the cylinder head. jim
Idler/tension pulleys: Removing the bearings would probably destruct the pulleys or be very labor-intensive. The front cover on the larger tensioner pulley for example is brazed to the pulley. Therefore, I just removed the old grease from the bearings, soaked the pulleys in Evapo-rust, regreased the bearings, primed, and painted the pulleys semi-gloss black. I couldn't find any drawing/picture showing the correct assembly of the pulleys. Does anyone know the correct assembly order - pulley, washer, grease cover, washer, nut??? On the pulleys, I bought everything was mixed up.
Thank you! Jim, that is exactly what I wanted to know. Guess the order applies to the tension pulley as well. Wolfgang
AC drier mounting bracket and drier: Thanks to a member on FABO, I acquired an original drier bracket in excellent condition – they are kinda hard to find – happy about that. The drier is an aftermarket product and equipped with a pressure valve.
Parallel flow condenser: To the best of my knowledge, when converting to R134a the "general" rule for choosing an AC condenser is "the bigger the better". Since I wanted to use the original condenser mounting holes, in-, and outlet on opposite sites (like original), choices were limited and the search time-consuming. Measurements for the original mounting holes are: 25,7” (center of the hole – passenger to driver side) 6.89” (passenger side – center lower to center upper hole) 9.25” (driver side – center lower to center upper hole) Through a small but fine shop with great customer service, I acquired this condenser CN 21004C (polarbearinc.com). I like to buy parts at small businesses, they are usually customer orientated and more flexible. Gretchen from Polar Bear, Inc. for example is a great person to deal with. The condenser fits more or less perfectly on the Barracuda. I only had to enlarge two holes on the new condenser, otherwise, the condenser frame lines up nicely with the original mounting holes. I spray painted the front of the condenser with a very thin layer of semi gloss black. Some well-known aftermarket AC providers have poorly engineered, overpriced solutions, with ugly mounting straps and complicated installation procedures, where you have to remove the radiator in order to install the condenser - insane and not well thought out at all. For installation, I used hardened M5 bolts with lock nuts and nylon bushings (just painted them black). Removing the hood latch support panel took 5 minutes and provided easy access for installation - quite satisfied with my simple solution.
AC mufflers, hoses, and lines: Original AC lines were often thrown away, therefore hard to find and after 50+ years usually in bad condition. I wanted to maintain the original routing for the AC lines, have them look close to the original but with modern, more flexible, and R134A compatible hoses. I had to do some compromises, but in the end, it should be an upgrade, functional, and still look close to the factory AC. Over the last months, I acquired some AC lines with good metal parts on them. 2 AC mufflers and the "sensor line" for the Expansion Valve got hot tanked, soaked in Evapo-Rust, primed, and painted in semi-gloss black. One AC muffler is from a 70ies model. I prefer the "one-piece" since every connection is a potential source for leaks. Ludlow Automotive & Speed Shop| Dayton, OH 45414 was very helpful - a small shop with excellent customer service and fair prices. They provided the AC hoses, lines, and fittings. After I had the lines bent and the hoses cut to the desired length, I marked all parts at their final position. Ludlow Automotive then crimped/brazed all parts together and pressure tested them. The installation of the high and low R134A adapter charge fittings completed this job. The next project is the AC line from the condenser to the drier and to the expansion valve. So far, I am quite satisfied with the outcome and the look of the lines.
Excellent work on that AC rebuild. I took all of my original AC parts off my car around 1980 with 70k orig miles all kept in dry storage. One day I wanna get AC back in mine. Great find on that condenser too that will help others out for sure.
AC line – condenser to drier: This line is a #6 AC line and requires female/female connectors. Since I do not have an AC line flaring tool, I had to find a line in the right length. I knew that the AC project will require some labor, but I never thought that it will be so time-consuming. To determine the length of the AC line, I used a 1.5 mm wire and bent a template for the line. Afterwards, I straightened the wire and measured the length. Lucky me, Summit racing has #6 female/female AC lines in exactly the length needed Vintage Air 125743 Vintage Air U-Bend-Em Refrigerant Lines | Summit Racing. Now, the trick is to bend a line with a given length in such a way, that it fits 2 static points (fitting on drier and condenser). Lots of measuring - considering all angles, bend radiuses, and line diameter. Anyway, after some hours I had a perfect matching line, that connects the condenser with the drier. 2 R134A compatible O-rings and a grommet at the radiator support opening completed this job. So far, I am very happy with the outcome. The AC line from the drier to the expansion valve is next and last on the “To Do” list.
Very true words, the line to the expansion valve will be a challenge. Ordered two of them - just in case... Cheers, Wolfgang
Nicely bent and installed Wolfgang! I agree that line bending can go very well or really badly. As you stated, it takes time to make them right. Sometimes you can't test fit one bend at a time, so you have to bend the whole line and then see how you did. Sometimes that can mean trouble!
AC Compressor – wiring and V-Belt: For the AC compressor and AC pressure switch wiring, I acquired Packard connectors from CE Auto Electric Supply Packard Connectors – CE Auto Electric Supply. After comparing 3 different V-Belts for the AC Compressor, I settled with Continental 17531 Auto V-Belt from Rock Auto.
Expansion Valve and AC line: Maybe I overlooked something on my Internet search, but so far I have not found a source for a 90 Degree, #8 female/female AC line that connects the Expansion Valve with the evaporator. Finding a shop with an AC line flaring tool seems also impossible. Came up with another solution - purchased two 90 Degree #8 AC fittings and brought them to a professional welder. Et Voila! Spent the rest of the sunny afternoon driving the Barracuda - the first ride in 2021.
