1969 Dart Street/Strip (Re)Build

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Posted this in the racers forum but I'll stick it here too since it's some forward progress in my 1/4 mile times. These times were over a half second faster than last time I ran this track.

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HDgxrKg_Ug0&feature=player_embedded"]Turkey Run - YouTube[/ame]
 
I already watched it cause I subscribe to your channel. Congrats Clint!
 
Some new and exciting things are going to happen this year with the Dart! Not big things but a couple changes that will really change this car and its driveability. First off is a brand new CC374 Champion radiator (yeah I know, they're cheap but I figure I'll give them a shot). Mine arrived and is SQUARE! No warping on this unit which I was surprised since I seem to attract all of the most defective new parts on the market. Polished and $200 shipped. I know people complained about the fans they use so I opted to get my own. After seeing others fit the Ford Contour fan to this radiator, I was sold. The only issue I was going to run into was the thickness of the shroud. The CSR pump is longer than a standard pump (as most already know). So seeing how close others' pump noses were to the fan, I had some concern. I bought a brand new Dorman unit (HORRIBLE QUALITY SHROUD!) and with some trimming, I was able to make it work! The Dorman unit had 1/4" gaps on the corners that would allow air to suck right past the shroud and not pull through the radiator. I trimmed at least 3/4 of the periphery of the shroud to make it straight. I must say that I did a darn good job with the dremel though. It almost looks like a factory trim. Had to trim and .10" from the front edge of the shroud where the water pump motor is and that was all. Going to run an automatic relay system so that the low fans kick on at 180 and off and 170, high on at 200 and off at 185 or 190. No I didn't buy one of those costly Dakota controllers for this. Just 2 relays, 2 temperature switches, and 2 override switches. Will save a lot of money doing it this way and it should work just fine. I will have override switches so that I can manually run the fans on high or low whenever I want to. Also added a small catch can and PCV system with new breathers (that also look better) since the way I had it before allowed oil to keep puking onto the valve covers. So here's where I'm at so far with it.

Before:









After:














Look at how bad the mating surface of this Dorman shroud is! The silver line I drew is the line I used to make it straight again.









I added my own nutplates instead of using the ones provided on the radiator.



Now with fans in place, everything is going to fit!





Here's where I had to trim just a bit from the shroud. Not bad at all.



Mounted my overflow bottle brackets like so




So now the biggest change I'm going to make is the 200-4R transmission swap that others here have done. I've located several cores for $75-$100 and am having a friend build it for me. I would love to use Extreme Automatics or someone similar but dang those things are $$$$ ($2200 to start for what I would need and that doesn't include all the other crap I need on it). I am going to have the bellhousing machined off, add Extreme Automatics' adapter ring, and use a Reid SFI bell. Will order the 200-4R conversion crossmember from US car tool as well to help save some time and fabrication work. I will have Dynamic build me another high stall converter for this transmission too. This one will be a 9-1/2" 4500 stall unit. It will have an external lock-up switch so that I can manually lock it when I want it to lock on the highway. It will not lock otherwise which is what I need it to do. This will change my rpm from 3100 @ 60 mph to 2000 rpm @ 60 mph. Oh and guess what? Power Tour is coming through Wichita so you bet your sweet a$$ I'm going to be in it! I will do the run from Oklahoma City to Wichita and several others I know are planning this as well. My new shifter for the transmission will be a Precision Performance Products shifter. Supposedly the last shifter you will ever buy. I've held one a dealer here and they are indeed amazing and the shift is so solid. My B&M is a big piece of crap compared to this new shifter. I'm so stoked about the shifter alone I can't hardly stand it. Plus it's only 3/4" wide too so no more big bulky shifter on the floor. I'll have to get new carpet but that's ok. I can deal with that.

So when I get this swap done, my 727 trans and 8" 5500 stall converter will be up for sale. If any of you are interested in something like this, let me know. Will be a few months before it's ready. I have no issues with the trans now, just not liking the highway rpm. The converter was very expensive so someone will get a good deal on this.
 
Picked up 3 200-4R cores today. These little gems are getting hard to find!

 
Here's a fun video in my buddie's 63 330 with a 508" with ported 440 source heads. Praise rev limiters!

[ame]https://youtu.be/FcKEEDBRwno[/ame]
 
Here's the pcv system with a mini catch can. Also added a drain valve so it will be easy to drain out.





Messed with the fan wiring to make sure the wiring diagram I made was going to work. And it does!



[ame]https://youtu.be/KWUNd32u1Ic[/ame]
 
so with your pcv and catch can, your running hose to both breathers?

It's just running to the one bank. If it's still spitting oil out the other breather, I'll end up having to add a PCV on that side too. But I'll try this first and see how it goes.
 
View from the rear of the car

[ame]https://youtu.be/8KkVrovsmWs[/ame]
 
My cousin gets a good scare

[ame]https://youtu.be/XW3mrCYKjPw[/ame]
 
Here's my wiring diagram for using the high and low speed on the Contour fans if anyone was interested

 
hooks a bit better on the street when you get some "ballast" in the passenger seat (no insult intended) ha ha ha I took my dad and his two buddies for a ride in my dart once and with everyone in the car it dead hooked in first gear.

Go back a page or go to my YouTube channel and watch "Run with some family". I probably weigh a solid 75 lbs less than any of the other 3 people in the car. Still didn't hook real well in first but that's mostly because my 4 link isn't set up correctly. 2nd gear hooked hard though!
 
I got the transmission cooler moved down and out of sight. It now sits behind the bumper right above the air dam. The air dam should provide plenty of air to cool.









Then I got a smoking deal on these babies. Wilwoods on front and Dr. Diff disk on back. There's more to this than just the brake swap, but I'll be posting more on that later.



Side by side comparison to original style '73 up disk



I had some concern that these big brakes would even fit my 15" wheels. Not a problem.

 
glad to see your getting ready to take the big plunge! brakes look great!


do you have any info on the front air damn? how it mounts? is it fiberglass? plastic? i have been thinking of installing one on my dart but i would like to see the install details first.
 
glad to see your getting ready to take the big plunge! brakes look great!


do you have any info on the front air damn? how it mounts? is it fiberglass? plastic? i have been thinking of installing one on my dart but i would like to see the install details first.

I appreciate the lead on those brakes!

The air dam is from a '68 Camaro. It's plastic and I'm not sure that I'd do plastic again, although it was much cheaper than the metal version IIRC. The reason I may not go the plastic route again is because I noticed last night that a couple screws I used cracked the plastic at those screws when I sucked it down to the frame. So now I'll have to repair those somehow. I'll post pictures later when I get it repaired and get the brackets I made put on it.
 
I knew I recognized this car.......

pre-assembly today.
 
Seems like the car just keeps fighting me. Just a lot of annoying little things. Ordered a "new" rack and pinion and it showed up last night marred and scratched horribly. Hopefully my nastygram will get another sent out. I finally got to the point where I could run the car with the new radiator and fan setup. Pulled battery off the charger and it's shot!. 5 months over the 7 year warranty. Go figure. Another day of hot rodding. So got a new battery, drove it several miles and she didn't budge above 185 which is where I have the fans set to turn on. Ran the heck out of it and still no temp increase! Should have no issues in the summer. So I get back and finish buttoning up the car. Went out with a couple friends on a cruise. It was the first time we had all 3 of our cars together. We were getting after it on the highway toying around and such. We split and headed home. As I was turning in to my neighborhood, I couldn't turn the wheel!. It was locked from turning right! I about didn't make it home but did. Opened the hood and found that the breather had come unscrewed from its base and wedged itself between the fender and steering rod. Messed up the paint and the breather but wife and I made it home safely at least.





 
Not on my end.....smoothest pre-assembly ever.....on your end, it could have been much worse, you are very fortunate.

Ships Monday.........enjoy, and thank you.
 
Not on my end.....smoothest pre-assembly ever.....on your end, it could have been much worse, you are very fortunate.

Ships Monday.........enjoy, and thank you.

Yes Denny I feel very fortunate. I'm not even mad about the messed up inner fender or brand new breather. We were clicking off triple digits just minutes before that happened. It could have been really really bad. No one was hurt and I didn't hurt anyone else which is always my biggest fear.

OK the cat's outta the bag! If you didn't notice from Denny's comment, I'm swapping to the HDK front end folks! No more torsion bars on my headers, no more steering linkages scraping the headers at every turn, no more pulling the engine just to get the oil pan off, headers will be so much easier to get in and out, no more nose diving and walking the road under hard braking, suspension geometry and travel will now be corrected with my lowered ride height (which is not great with stock suspension and no drop spindles), steering will be tighter, oh and how about all that extra room underneath plus some decent weight savings when combined with the Wilwood brakes over the stock brakes?! As a lot of you have seen on YoungGun's HDK thread, the swap looks like it will be a breeze. I'm leaving the engine in place for my swap but this shouldn't make it that much more difficult. I'll just need to hold the engine up with blocks and/or a hoist while I'm swapping the parts around. More than likely I'm going to take my time and do it over a few days, if it even takes that long. Most do it in one day but I like to take my time with things and make sure I don't rush and overlook something. As soon as the kit shows up, I plan on taking pictures of how everything was set up from Denny, disassemble the whole kit and send it to powdercoat, reassemble as Denny had it, then mock and install all in one step rather than mock, disassemble, powdercoat, reassemble, and install. Hopefully all goes well doing it this way and install goes as smooth as Denny's pre-assembly did. Stay tuned!
 
sorry bout that......that's what I get from trying to speed read all the threads.

put that in the ooops column.
 
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