famous bob
mopar misfit
Used to be, u couldn`t run any gas (fuel) fittings or any fuel related part on the firewall-------nhra---legally
1969 Dodge Dart Pro-Street 440
- Thread starter Taxmanth
- Start date
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Used to be, u couldn`t run any gas (fuel) fittings or any fuel related part on the firewall-------nhra---legally
Haha yea you right! I could have done a better job with the picture.
Thats a picture of the return hose inside the fuel cell.
I was just going to plum that fire wall fitting through the bottom of the tank, holly said there needs to be 0 to 5 psi of pressure in the return line so it “should” be put to the top of the tank.
Fine! To to the top it goes, but now, you can’t have the fuel splash down from the top. It wil airate the fuel and cavatate the pump. Ssooo I just added another fitting and a 8” leingth of hose to that bulkhead fitting so the fuel would not splash its way down.
roccodart440
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Srry brother. Have not had a chance to start it up yet.
From what I’m told it is quite and should work like a top. But stay tuned, it should be up and running in a few weeks
Well idk if jegs sent me PTFE hose by accedent but there is no way to get these hose ends on this damn hose!! I destroyed 2 ends trying to get them togeather.
What I ended up doing is drilling out a .080 section and then they would finally start and thread togeather!
Well I got them all in the car and did a leak check. I ran just one side of the pump and it pressured the system up to 53 psi no problem.... and it leaked everywhere. Hahahaha of course! After tightening a few missed fittings and a few problem children it all sealed up.
It looks crazy, but honestly wasent that hard.
What I ended up doing is drilling out a .080 section and then they would finally start and thread togeather!
Well I got them all in the car and did a leak check. I ran just one side of the pump and it pressured the system up to 53 psi no problem.... and it leaked everywhere. Hahahaha of course! After tightening a few missed fittings and a few problem children it all sealed up.
It looks crazy, but honestly wasent that hard.
Well the instructions for this harness BLOW. In the fact that they dont exist. Well there is a sheet of paper that says there is instructions on a CD. Dont help when all i have is a IPaD!
Anyway, there is some on the net so i did find a wire diagram. **** is in black and white, like it cost extra to use color?! So i colored it, hope it helps some one else.
Time to start labling all the wires since, unlike a painless harness there is none, because i dont know which one of the 12,000 purple wires is TPS +5 volt input hahaha
Anyway, there is some on the net so i did find a wire diagram. **** is in black and white, like it cost extra to use color?! So i colored it, hope it helps some one else.
Time to start labling all the wires since, unlike a painless harness there is none, because i dont know which one of the 12,000 purple wires is TPS +5 volt input hahaha
Well got the harness all mapped out. It’s was good because now I got a better understanding of the whole thing. 90%of what the computer can do and is built on the harness I’m not going to use. But maybe it’s something that I can build on.
Mounted the computer on the passenger kick panel. And ran the power cable. A body’s are smal cars. And the cable the Holley gives ya is not long enough to make it from there to the trunk. Bbbuuuummmeeeerrrrr.
On the plus side I did have 10 feet of 10 gauge wire in the tool box. Score!! So with that. It fit like a dream. I had like 2” left over.
On the plus side I did have 10 feet of 10 gauge wire in the tool box. Score!! So with that. It fit like a dream. I had like 2” left over.
Well the 16 pin injector harness has 1-8.... aaaa... twice. Not 1-16. And the main harness pinout is just 1-8. Ssssooooo I have no idea how to connect 10 injectors In 8 connections.
Called Holley, they need to call the experts apparently. Should hear back by Tuesday.
Until then. I got the MAP sensor all mounted and plumed.
Called Holley, they need to call the experts apparently. Should hear back by Tuesday.
Until then. I got the MAP sensor all mounted and plumed.
Got the main harness in the car. Figured out the tree ways that it needs to go. But I’ll wajt to get all the sensors in first before I start plugging things in.
I got the O2 sensor in. Just welded a hung on the exhaust. Super easy. And I got it all tucked up under the car so nothing can hit it.
I got the O2 sensor in. Just welded a hung on the exhaust. Super easy. And I got it all tucked up under the car so nothing can hit it.
Well.... screwed up the wire to the cd box. It needed to be the crank trigger. Not the coil in. And the cam sensor needs to be wired too because it shares power with it.
After I figured that out. Loaded the base map. And plugged in the o2 sensor. The thing kinda starts.....
It like pops to life and dies as soon as I stop turning the key. Eeehhh more trouble shooting next weekend
After I figured that out. Loaded the base map. And plugged in the o2 sensor. The thing kinda starts.....
It like pops to life and dies as soon as I stop turning the key. Eeehhh more trouble shooting next weekend
Yea the red and white wire you mean? It has 12v all the time. It’s hard wired to the battery side of the shutdown switch.
I can’t tell if it’s dieing because bc fuel tables are crap, as in too lean. Or if their is not enough air and it’s too rich, and I need more throttlebody gap.
turbodart68
Well-Known Member
Do you have the red fuel pump feed wire to 12 volts? Even if you are not controlling the fuel pump with the ECU it will need 12v to that wire. If you need more help I am willing to talk on the phone and see if we can get it running. If we go that route, email me your tune and I will look it over.
turbodart68
Well-Known Member
Also did you set the crank trigger, cam trigger 60 degrees advanced?
Yea. Because that’s the wire that powers the fuel injectors as well. The pump and injectors both turn on.
That would be awesome! What’s your email?
I don’t have the computer controlling timing. So nothing to set there. The instructions have the crank input go to the output of the cd box with a square wave input.
I had the yellow coil input there but that didn’t work.
turbodart68
Well-Known Member
The computer needs to know the cam timing and the cam sensor is what triggers that. What are you using for the cam sensor?
It needs to know cam position for timing. But I’m not using the computer to time the engine. So it’s unused.
It needs crank trigger to see engine rpm to turn on the injectors. I have that hooked to the cd box. Works with square wave set up.
Well may have found A problem. The plugs in the hat aren’t plugging. As you can see there’s a gap, so they are letting air in.
As you can see in the second picture there needs to be a knife edge on the plug so it can let the butterfly open in the socket.
I guess I have some quality time with a file comming up
As you can see in the second picture there needs to be a knife edge on the plug so it can let the butterfly open in the socket.
I guess I have some quality time with a file comming up
Ok well I may have corrected the problem.
I fixed the plugs, I started the car and it idled normally enough. But I used clear silicone to fill the gaps. The engine rpm was enough to move he plugs around and it got another leak in it.
So I need to get another semi pemanent caulk or some glue to hold them in place better.
I fixed the plugs, I started the car and it idled normally enough. But I used clear silicone to fill the gaps. The engine rpm was enough to move he plugs around and it got another leak in it.
So I need to get another semi pemanent caulk or some glue to hold them in place better.
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