1970 340 Balance Problem...Bottom Line

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Yeah, that would be nice if this was the vibration problem........a lot easier and cheaper that monkeying with the converter.......ALTHOUGH, I still need the rear seal changed now..................still leaks...........real mess.

If I can't locate a stock balancer, what about a neutral balance aftermarket unit........................any specific suggestions?

I'd appreciate it.................. :lurk:
 
I have a Pioneer SFI neutral balanced balancer/damper on my car. Jegs sells them under their own label. Not sure who makes their non-SFI balancers. But for long term use, most aftermarket units should work well and they are new as opposed to old, used OEM units.

Summit has the Pioneer "Street" harmonic dampers.

As for the rear seal, hopefully it's the pan seal and not the rear crank/main seal!
 
Professional Products sells them non SFI for about $90. Nice parts. Last two I had were dead on accurate too.
 
first off , Locomotion is dead on as to the cast vs forged crank issue. My 73 340 4sp
Dart sport came with a cast crank. I am not so sure about the accuracy of the 400 4sp and 440 truck motors having forged units. I would like to see or hear some definitive proof of that. As for the strength of each, Herb McCandless personally
walked me thru the build up of my motor and told me not to worry about the strength
of a cast unit as he has seen very few failures of them.

2nd, nobody has informed Pastortom that he will have to have his motor rebalanced
when he goes to a new balancer. It would seem to make sense , we have no idea of the quality of work or competency of the previous owner! The current balancer may be fine, but the balancing job may be bungled. I'd hate to see him throwing a bunch of money at the problem with no results.

Just my 2 cents, let's here what you think
 
The point of taking the balancer off and removing the weight (it indeed WAS a bolt on counterweight, which would throw any internally balanced motor out of balance) is to attempt to AVOID having to rebalance the whole thing.......... Lord have mercy.........if I have to tear it all down to rebalance it, it's gonna' be sittin' in a garage for the NEXT 20 years.............

Aside from being a bit shaky at certain rpm's, this motor is a real whomper............I've been careful since it came off the trailer at delivery because I KNEW something wasn't right.........but we were bettin' on an easy fix...............sometimes a lousy gamble.............but this motor had so much dough in it (we had all of the dated receipts produced with the car) that it was hard to turn down.

At any rate, it's all back together (but I haven't hooked up the overflow yet.......found a crack I just fixed....waitin' for it to cure) and ready to fire up................BUT, I think I'll wait til' I chill a bit before turning the key............I'm too tired and wound-up to try it right now..............

I'm hoping for a smooooooooth start later tonight.........I'll let you know the results, and post a pic of that pesky counterweight..... (for those who need to know, the previous owner installed a Mopar Hi-Perf. Balancer on there......around $400. according to a Mopar guy here...it came with the removeable weight for various applications).

:angel5: (gotta chill.........)
 
We removed the counterweight, and the 340 is smooooooth now.........

What a thrill !..................See new thread, "70-340 is Balanced Again".......................Thanks for the input guys.........

Doc :toothy7:
 
pastortom1 said:
We removed the counterweight, and the 340 is smooooooth now.........

What a thrill !..................See new thread, "70-340 is Balanced Again".......................Thanks for the input guys.........

Doc :toothy7:

Glad to hear you got it Doc.:headbang:
 
hi. is the vibration there at a higher speed too? yes your torque converter has small balancing weights. have you changed your torque converter lately? did you look at the flywheel for cracks in between the bolts? if there are cracks you will have a vibration as soon as you rev up because the flywheel will ot be running true. take your torque bolts out of converter and slide the converter back. now start the engine and see if he vibration is still there,if it is gone I would look at the torque converter an check the flywheel. hope this was helpful.
 
I hope they were able to fix that vibration...since it has been almost 8 yrs......

dug up from the dead.......LOL
 
Can't fault sivercity51 too much.....he did make good use of the search function. :)

Today is pastor Tom's B-day by the way. I know I haven't seen him here for quite a while, but if he see's this for some reason, Happy Birthday Tom!
 
Can't fault sivercity51 too much.....he did make good use of the search function. :)

That's true! I wish more members would use it instead of just starting a new thread about a topic that has been discussed ad nauseam. He had to dig pretty deep to revive this thread!
 
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