"1970 Pro Touring Dart Build"

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AnotherA said:
The math is telling me its almost a 28" tall tire. Did you have to trim the front of the quarter to give you more room in the wheel well since you kept the axle in the stock location?
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No I didn't. Yes the tire is right at 28". What I did do though is round off the bottoms of the tubs at the front and back where they end with a BFH and knocked in all the dimples that go into the tub area, except where the trunk hinge bracket is.
 
moparisbest said:
I understand totally . I have Been on my car for three years now and no end in sight . I was thanking maybe a year and it would be done. No chip foose going on in my garage . I have stud back and taken a few brakes from the build and after awhile I get the bug again . It's the big parts like engine,trans,rearend, that kill me. The small parts like door handles,trim clips,headliner clips and so on and on and on lol . I just buy when I have extra and don't buy if I can make the bills first . I went threw a divorce and I'm taking care of my four kids with no help from there mom .so things are tight .but I will not give up . Just when I thank things are bad I look around and see some have it worse. So it may take me five years but the end will be the pay off . Good luck you will get it done one steep forward at a time
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im in the same boat w/only 1 kid, i have a body shop, mortgage ,bills,etc... my DART is under a tarp in our tow yard getiing work done when time + $, is possible. Dont get discouraged "Anothe A" , to build a BAD A-- ride is a test of patience more-so than anything. Keep it up bro! -Erik
 
Thanks for the encouragement guys.
I plan on getting it back on the rotisserie this week for the final block sanding then paint.
 
AnotherA said:
Transmission cross member has been made. Easy install and removal, it slides in from the back side and stops where it needs to be when it hits the front gusset.

I think it turned out pretty good.

Now we can take the tranny out and finish the tunnel.

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do you think this setup would work if you kept the t-bars? looks like the best solution for a crossmember for my tko swap. if it will clear my exhaust....

and where did you get the crossmember? is it one fo the speedway streetrod ones?
 
I kind of have to be at this point. I've got until the end of December to get as much done as possible because the building i'm working out of is sold.
 
dusterbd13 said:
do you think this setup would work if you kept the t-bars? looks like the best solution for a crossmember for my tko swap. if it will clear my exhaust....

and where did you get the crossmember? is it one fo the speedway streetrod ones?
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Yep the cross memeber is from speedway. As far as fit goes with a TKO, I can't even venture a guess.
 
AnotherA said:
Yep the cross memeber is from speedway. As far as fit goes with a TKO, I can't even venture a guess.
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thanks.

i was more wondering on chassis rigidity. i have the homebrew square tube subframe connectors, but im staing t-bars. i also do a bit of autocrossing and tracking with mine, so i would rather not have failure points if i can help it.

i saw the picture of where your collectors were in reference to the crossmember. looked pretty good.
do you have a measurement from floor pan to bottom of the crossmember behind the collectors?? that will tell me if it will clear my wxhaust. will be tight with the TTI 3 inch x-pipe setup.....

michael
 
Which one is the Viper Very Orange Pearl and which one is the Arancio Argos?

I'm going with the cheaper non 3 stage paint which is the VVOP.

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They do look close, I'm going to say the one with the stick on the bottom is the pearl. They both look great, comparing those two, I would definitely go with the cheaper option.
 
You guys guessed correct.

All pretty in primer, going back on the rotisserie tonight.

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In that last picture, that square fuel door sets it off nicely. Good design choice, it looks natural.
 
My friend works at a shop that does autobody repair. Not sure where they get them from.
 
Seam sealed and ready to have the bottom shot black. Should happen this week sometime.

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thanks for the underside shot...kinda gets my gears turnin'
 
I tore the rear end apart tonight, will be de-greasing tomorrow.
Checked the bearings on the roller motor and they are all stock and the wear is very minimal. So for once it looks like I got a good motor to start with. The plan is to just replace the bearings, fly cut the heads to raise the compression to around 10:1 and put a street able cam in it.

Now that the bottom is shot I need to get the K member and everything else painted so she can be put back on her feet and the rest of the body work done.

How are the shock tower hoops coming along Denny?


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shock tower hoops???....in final stage

the top attaching bracket is at the lazer cutter now....confirm specs w/test fit, then make initial 12 sets.

I think you will like them....added strenght and even if I do say so myself...they look like they belong on a race car
 
Excuse me. Coil over brace?
I'm sure I will like them, there isn't a single thing you have sent me yet that I don't like.
 
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