1971 Dodge Dart ignition / coil issues

[Angewoldt]

I'm working on fixing up a 1971 Dodge Dart and am having issues with the coil and ignition. I'm getting a voltage reading for the coil, but what would cause me to get a 60 volt reading at the ignition coil? What should the correct voltage be for this?
Maybe the coil is bad? As well as the voltage regulator? My coil reads decent ohms in the secondary, but not the primary.
Does anyone know what the correct ohms should be for the coil and what the voltage should read when not running and when the car is turned on?
Car does not run. It won't turn over. The battery is fully charged. Has to be somewhere with the coil, voltage regulator, wiring or spark plugs?
Also, no spark showed when checking the coil.
Any thoughts or help would be greatly appreciated!

 

[67Dart273]

Alright let's slow down a bit.

What exactly type of ignition system do you have? Breaker points? Mopar electronic? Some sort of aftermarket electronic?

The VR has nothing to do with starting and running. It tells the alternator how much voltage to send to the battery, AKA "voltage" regulator

Don't jump to throwing parts. "Coil as well as regulator" doubtful both, and again, the VR is likely not related


"Wont turn over." Let's clear that up. Does the engine rotate on the starter, and won't fire, or it simply will not rotate?

"Turns over" means the engine rotates with the key commanding the starter. Has nothing to do with the engine fires and runs

"fires." Means the engine coughs, tries to run, may run for a second or several

"runs" or "fires and runs." Means it starts and runs possibly badly

 

[67Dart273]

Just what reading are you getting for resistance at the coil? This must be measured with the coil DISconnected. The two screw terminals will read VERY low, near a dead short. Most multimeters are not (very) accurate at low readings Secondary will read several thousand ohms. Look in the factory service manual. You can download them, free, l from MyMopar. You may have to settle for Dodge vs Plymouth, etc. The specs are in the back of section 8 which is the electrical section

 

[67Dart273]

Under what exact conditions do you think you are seeing 60 at coil?

 

[Angewoldt]

I'm working on fixing up a 1971 Dodge Dart and am having issues with the coil and ignition. I'm getting a voltage reading for the coil, but what would cause me to get a 60 volt reading at the ignition coil? What should the correct voltage be for this?

Under what exact conditions do you think you are seeing 60 at coil?

Thanks for the reply. I did type faster than my brain with the car won't turn over...I meant to say it will turn over, but will not start. I will have to look for this spec book. I have checked the coil disconnected and received the lower readings. I'm seeing the 60 volts when trying to start the car.

 

[Angewoldt]

Alright let's slow down a bit.

What exactly type of ignition system do you have? Breaker points? Mopar electronic? Some sort of aftermarket electronic?

The VR has nothing to do with starting and running. It tells the alternator how much voltage to send to the battery, AKA "voltage" regulator

Don't jump to throwing parts. "Coil as well as regulator" doubtful both, and again, the VR is likely not related


"Wont turn over." Let's clear that up. Does the engine rotate on the starter, and won't fire, or it simply will not rotate?

"Turns over" means the engine rotates with the key commanding the starter. Has nothing to do with the engine fires and runs

"fires." Means the engine coughs, tries to run, may run for a second or several

"runs" or "fires and runs." Means it starts and runs possibly badly

 

[Angewoldt]

It's Mopar electronic. After looking at this more I am thinking it is in the wiring. The guy who had the car before me looks to have added new wiring and used some of the old as well. If I knew what the voltage should be when the car is off, turned on and when trying to start, that would help in alot of my deducing.

 

[Angewoldt]

It's Mopar electronic. After looking at this more I am thinking it is in the wiring. The guy who had the car before me looks to have added new wiring and used some of the old as well. If I knew what the voltage should be when the car is off, turned on and when trying to start, that would help in alot of my deducing.

Think we may have it narrowed down to the issue being from the distributor or ECU. The 60 volts is still concerning. Not sure why it is that high and what would cause this

 

[67Dart273]

I think that is a mistake and without you telling me exactly what you connected when you arrived at that, no idea Please don't jump to conclusions about "has to be this or that" You can waste a fair amount of money.

Start by clipping your meter to coil+ Turn key to "run" and measure to ground. You want to see around?? 8-10V, if you get full battery voltage, the ECU is not conducting AND MAY NOT BE GROUNDED

Measure coil NEG it should be quite low perhaps 1 or 2V

Next, clip back onto coil + and measure this while cranking starter, USING THE KEY. Do not jumper the starter relay for this measurement. You should see "same as battery" and at least 10-10.5V and higher is better

If that is OK, "rig" a test gap out of the coil tower, disconnect the distributor connector and take the connector that goes to the engine bay harness, NOT the dist. end. With the key in "run" repeatedly tap the exposed bare end of the connector to ground. You should get 1 sharp snap spark each time. If so, and if the measurements above are OK, then the ECU is ok, the coil is "good enough" and the ECU is grounded

Next, hook your meter to the two dist. terminals at the dist. connector. Crank the engine, or have someone do so. Set the meter on low AC that is right AC volts. Dist. should generate about 1V AC

If not pull cap and inspect. Look for dirt, damage, wear and slop in shaft/ bearings etc.

 

[67Dart273]

Make ABSOLUTELY CERTAIN ECU is grounded. Remove it and the VR, and clean/ scrape around the rear of the bolt holes, and the firewall. Remount using star lock washers. Wiggle test all connectors. Remove and install connector several times to "scrub" the terminals and "feel" for tightness. Inspect terminals with a light and magnifier. The dist. connector IS IN PARTICULAR a problem, because there is very little current through it.

Post back with results. If the voltages seem OK and the "tap" test gives no spark AND if the ECU is grounded, it is a tossup between coil and ECU. Coil resistance checks can seem OK and coil can be bad.

 

[cudamark]

I think he may be reading his volt meter wrong. Sure you're not on the voltage X10 scale? Probably 6V, not 60V. Still low, as it should be battery voltage in the start position, and a bit higher than 6V in the run position.