1972 dart 318 want to make the tires spin

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Giles103

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I have a rebuilt 318 with atleast 325 HP. It has the 904 tranny and 2.93 gear in a 7 1/4 rear.. What do i need to change so that this car will spin the tires?
It has plenty of power once it get to around 35MPH but i would like to have some bottom end power.
 
something doesn't sound right. 325hp should be able to break the tire loose. I'm assuming your 7 1/4 is not a suregrip.
 
Would changing the gear ratio be OK with you?
I'd suggest a set of 3.23/3.21 (8-3/4-8-1-4 respectively.)
Which also requires a shorter driveshaft. I had mine shortened for $60.

What cam do you have in there now?
If it has a duration a bit long for the gears, an easy way to gain torque would be a set of Rhodes lifters.
 
something doesn't sound right. 325hp should be able to break the tire loose. I'm assuming your 7 1/4 is not a suregrip.
I agree . I have a bone stock 318/727 (headers/1406/performer 2176) and a 291 geared 7 1/4 and I can roast the tires at will
 
If you've set the base timing to factory spec and hooked up the vacuum advance and other spark related crap a 73 model had on it, there is your problem. Even a stock 2 brl on the stock dual plane intake should break them loose if the spark is right.
 
Very true, jacking up the ignition to a performance level will add some serious grunt over the dead stock lame-o settings. But I don't think it the case with the described build above.
 
Put a 3000 or higher stall speed converter in it. This is the most common problem with a lot of cars that are slugs on the start. The converter comes in before maximum power.

Try this you'll like the result. You may want to get wider tires when you see the difference.
 
I have a rebuilt 318 with atleast 325 HP.

How do you know? Are you guestimating, did someone tell you that, or was it verified on a dyno?

My guess is the cam choice moved the powerband a lot higher, and stole your bottom end torque. Been there, done that.
 
i have a 72 swinger with rebuilt 318. i have a hard time keeping the tires from spinning on hard acceleration. worn suspention could be the culpritt as well. you can have all the power in the world but you have to be able to get it to the ground.
btw mine hase stock 904 and 7.25 also
 
My old 318 was right at 300 hp. With the old 8 1/4 2.76 open diff it would spin the tires (sorry ... tire) all day. When I put in the Dana 60 with 4.10 gears, I could only get them to spin if I was going around a corner. I have talked to a lot of friends who build cars, and weird as it seems, the lower the gear, the harder it is to spin the tires. I don't believe changing to a lower gear will help you. Also, it takes quite a bit to get a 318 to 325 hp. Has this been dyno'd or is it a guess? I would make sure I had a good stall converter for sure, but the first thing I would do is tune the car. Make sure your initial timing is where it needs to be. Then you won't waste power off the line. Set the total after your initial and you will be set. If it doesn't spin then, do what I did ... buy a 408 stroker. Now they spin until I let off the gas!
 
The HP was a total guess. I know a Voodoo cam is in it and a new torque converter was put in also. I just thought that it would spin the tires and it wont even come close. The 904 Tranny was rebuilt also.
This is my first classic car and i'm a beginner on everything and had the motor rebuilt. Just want to double check on it and find out if something was left out. When in park the motor feels strong and very responsive. It sjust doesnt get to the wheels for some reason. Thanks guys.
 
If you have done a cam change, and nothing else it will feel like a dog. I did a cam swap on my otherwise stock teen and it was a dog from a start. I swapped to 3.55's and that helped immensely, I can spin the tires at will. I need to rebuild a core trans I just picked up and put a high stall converter in and that should wake it up.
 
Get the initial timing set properly and your total timing number. If it's got the stock timing specs for idle advance, that's part of your issue. Bigger cam will require much more initial than the stock smog spec timing suggest.

IMO, If that doesn't have at least 14-16 initial it's not close to right. Going to require some adjustments inside the distributor to keep your total timing number in range.
 
If it has a cam and nothing else, you are way off. If my recollection is right, stock was around 230 hp. A Voodoo cam is nice, but it didn't add 100 hp. Talk to Crackedback about tuning it. If it runs properly it should smoke the tires easily.
 
If my recollection is right, stock was around 230 hp.

And that was a gross hp #. Net was more in the 150/170 range.

Sounds like too much duration at .050*, a large (possibly single plane) intake, big carb and improper tuning. Listen to cracked and work with the timing first. It's gotta make a difference.
 
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