1972 Dodge Colt

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If everything would have worked from the start, you would already be bored with it, and looking for another project.
 
sireland67 said:
If everything would have worked from the start, you would already be bored with it, and looking for another project.
Click to expand...
You know like every good Mopar guy I keep looking.
I said this was the last one..........

But if a sweet 65 Formula S Barracuda, or a 76 Feather Duster / Dart Lite showed up, I don't know.
 
It's mixing oil and water.
Trying to figure out what is causing the problem.
It's the new (to me) head or the copper head gasket.
Changing the oil multiple times to try and keep the block from turning to trash.
 
Hyper_pak said:
You know like every good Mopar guy I keep looking.
I said this was the last one..........

But if a sweet 65 Formula S Barracuda, or a 76 Feather Duster / Dart Lite showed up, I don't know.
Click to expand...
We share the same disease.... there will always be another old Mopar we lust for. As long as we draw breathe!
 
I did four oil changes to get the milk out, last one looked like fresh oil as it came out.
Now to take the head to the machine shop and take my back up plan with me.
New valves and a little more shave on my last head.

Boy do I wish we had an aluminum head.
 
Hyper_pak said:
I did four oil changes to get the milk out, last one looked like fresh oil as it came out.
Now to take the head to the machine shop and take my back up plan with me.
New valves and a little more shave on my last head.

Boy do I wish we had an aluminum head.
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Give Robert Maw a shake up on Facebook. He's dragging his feet. lol
 
Sounds like you need to start having everything pressure tested from now on! lol
 
Yea I thought about that, but...
It came advertised as a good head, been run many times, without issues.
I did nothing but clean it, lap the valves and get the springs and retainers.
 
I took the head I ran last year to the machine shop today.
Bronze wall guides, narrow stem valves, performance valve job and a .050 cut.

We talked about the other head, he wanted it to pressure test.
But if it's bad at this point, what would it help, other than to know what was wrong.
I looked the copper gasket real well, I could see no issues.
Thinking about water paths into oil from the gasket, there is only the rocker shaft oil passage at the rear.
That is real far from a water path from a head gasket.
It seems much more logical to me that water would mix somewhere in head casting, not the gasket.
I welcome any discussion on what might have happened.
 
Hyper_pak said:
I took the head I ran last year to the machine shop today.
Bronze wall guides, narrow stem valves, performance valve job and a .050 cut.

We talked about the other head, he wanted it to pressure test.
But if it's bad at this point, what would it help, other than to know what was wrong.
I looked the copper gasket real well, I could see no issues.
Thinking about water paths into oil from the gasket, there is only the rocker shaft oil passage at the rear.
That is real far from a water path from a head gasket.
It seems much more logical to me that water would mix somewhere in head casting, not the gasket.
I welcome any discussion on what might have happened.
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I would have it pressure tested. At least you would either eliminate the head, or confirm it is the issue. Seems like a no brainier at this point. Also, It's my understanding that copper head gaskets must have an oringed block in order to seal correctly.
 
Water can seep/flow from a water passage between the head and block, into the lifter galley. I never had that problem, but I know others that would put a very thin wipe of silicone sealer around the water passages, like an "O" ring.
 
Charrlie_S said:
Water can seep/flow from a water passage between the head and block, into the lifter galley. I never had that problem, but I know others that would put a very thin wipe of silicone sealer around the water passages, like an "O" ring.
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That is a long way too go, I don't see any trace of that happening on mine.
 
RustyRatRod said:
I would have it pressure tested. At least you would either eliminate the head, or confirm it is the issue. Seems like a no brainier at this point. Also, It's my understanding that copper head gaskets must have an oringed block in order to seal correctly.
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Yea, just saving cash at this point, now if I had your money...........

It's not o-ringed.
But I had a HECK of time getting un-stuck and pried off the top of the block.
Stuck like Chuck.
 
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Long Read.
Waiting for the machine shop and the head work.
I worked on the rocker arms today doing a bunch of checking.
Here is what I found/decided.
Started with a stock rocker shaft and arms.
Stock shaft has a ground flat on the front end, top.
Rocker Arm Oiling Project (19).jpeg

This places the small oiling holes on the bottom side pointing to the valve springs.
Stock Rockers
Rocker Arm Oiling Project (9).jpeg

It's a little hard to see but there is a banana groove that lays over the lower oil hole.
Oil travels around and up to a small hole at the top of the inner rocker arm assembly.
Then the oil goes forward to the tip and backward to drip down the adjuster and push rod cup.
Rocker Arm Oiling Project (10).jpeg

On the RAS/RAU roller rocker arms they have a similar design, just much more advanced.
And expensive.
They have a bronze bushing that is Fully Grooved.
Then there are drilled passages to the roller tip and to the adjuster and push rod cup.
Good thing about the fully grooved is you can not install the shaft wrong.
Oil will get to the right place.
Rocker Arm Oiling Project (14).jpeg


Rocker Arm Oiling Project (15).jpeg


Rocker Arm Oiling Project (16).jpeg

You can just see the passage right behind the roller.
I am planning on using the Goodman rockers because they are 1.5 ratio.
They are not bushed.
They have one passage to oil the roller.
I have been told that the oil shaft needs to be installed upside down and backward.
This puts the oil hole up on valve side aligned with the valve stem roller.
They do not have a banana groove.
This gives a shot of oil during a portion of the rocker arm movement.
Rocker Arm Oiling Project (1).jpeg

Picture above shows the oil hole position and the oil passage in the rocker.
Since it's not bushed there is a little clearance between the shaft and the rocker arm.
I assume oil flows around the inside of the rocker for lubrication.
Now when I ran the engine before I had the rocker shaft in the stock orientation.
Down and facing the valve springs.
While I knew I had oil in the shaft, I could see oil at the roller, but I had a few dry adjuster and cups.
I am concerned about this.
So, I drilled 5/64 holes in the adjuster side of the rockers to provide oil to the pushrod cups.
This is the same as the RAS/RAU 1.6 rocker arms, but without the inside groove.
Rocker Arm Oiling Project (8).jpeg

If my thought process is correct, oil pressure will force oil out both holes.
Oil will also be supporting the arm on the shaft with a thin film.
When the head gets back and installed I will be very interested in seeing where the oil ends up.
 
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FOUND IT!
Like Derek Bieri on Vice Grip Garage, "Well, I'll be dipped!"
PO of the head milled all the rocker supports flush.
He told me, be sure to Blue Loctite all the bolts holding the aluminum rocker supports.
Well I didn't associate Blue Loctite with water sealing.
This picture shows the number one rocker arm bolt visible through the thermostat boss on the head.
This is in the head waterjacket.

Well that would explain the milkshake machine.
Water Leak Milled Support.jpeg


Water Leak.jpeg
 
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