1973 Plymouth Duster repair and rebuild

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Ok, its not road worthy yet. But I had to see how it looks on the ground. The rear leaf springs are worn out. So I may need to consider lowering the rear once the new leaf's are installed. The other option I am considering is lifting the front end 1 inch. I need to get the car on flat ground and see where it lands to better judge what my next move will be. I have about 1.5 inch of spacing I can add to the rear tires. I will get pictures of it, and look for opinions later.

I need to fasten the shocks to the axle, shorten the drive shaft, install the steering column, and bleed brakes. I will be re adjusting the front suspension 1 more time before taking it to the shop for a alignment.

I am so happy. You would have to surgically remove this grin from my face.

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So here is a good picture showing the wheel fitment in the front and rear wheel wells. With where the front wheels landed, I am considering spacers for the rear.
Yes, I know about the headlight. :-)

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Of course at this point I had already welded the perches to the axle. Drilling thru the leaf spring with a sacrificial uni bit was cake with the leaf pack torn apart. Had to get a second bit to drill thru the last leaf. Slow speed and consistent force for the win. Other than I need to buy leaf spring clamp set, its done. And the clamps are not really necessary right away.

Its kind of funny you would say you would have purchased the correct perches.... I bought mopar performance perches. There is a assumption there that failed me. But it does make sense, larger axles are normally for bigger power. Small leaf springs are not used in big power setups. And a center pin with 5/16 threads would snap under the load of big power. What I need are new leaf springs. For the time being, this is what I have until I can gain employment. I will be replacing the leaf's and shocks in the future.

There is another element to this, if you haven't had to change perches and leaf spring pins, it sucks. The hole diam in the perch is not normally provided in the specs. Its as if there is a assumption and I dont have the experience to know it. And when you try to buy a 1/2 center pin, you find out that the 1/2in thread diam is listed and not the pin diam. And of course there are several different thread and pin diam combinations. Non of which are listed, cause that would make sense I guess.

A final thought, I bought a perch kit for a Ford 8.8 first. Only to find out that I had to buy a chevy Dana 44 perch kit for my ford axle as my 8.8 came out of a ranger and had the smaller axle tube of 3.25. Explorer axles are 3.5 inch which was what was delivered as thats what I purchased. Hence my first purchase was wrong. And the company would not exchange it due to buyers fault even though their website show NO sizes on the description. Maybe a note on the 8.8 description that the kit was for large tube 8.8 out of suv's and large trucks. I finally found the mopar performance perches for the 3.25 inch tube diam as well as a u-bolt kit for the correct diam. And I elongated the new base plate holes 1/8 in inward to fit the u-bolts as finding new base plates for 3.25 was impossible. Let alone finding them with the shock mounts integrated the same as factory a-body.


Both good points. Regarding building a bushing, I dont know if I stated earlier (few weeks ago) here but my metal lathe broke trying to build a crush sleeve for the front end. Not that matters due to the required dimensions. The pin head is 1/2in (.500), the perch hole diam is 5/8in (.625), leaving a difference of 1/8in (.125). That means my sleeve wall thickness would be 1/16in (.0675). So then I could use loctite to glue it to the pin. But slip fitting it (cut slightly smaller ID, heat it up and tap it down) would not be a good idea as the sleeve would most likely fracture. I would be more likely to use a larger grade 5 bolt, turn the head down to 5/8 and partial round, and turn the shank and threads down to nominal for 5/16, then single point thread. I would be concern a grade 8 would be to tough and become brittle during the lathe work.

As far as welding up holes and re-drilling, I wouldn't want to introduce inaccuracy into the setup.
I said that because it's a real well known piece of information. I THINK what they did there was make the centering holes larger to facilitate the bigger centering pins the super stock guys were using at the time. If it's not that, I don't know WHY the heck they did it. lol
 
I said that because it's a real well known piece of information. I THINK what they did there was make the centering holes larger to facilitate the bigger centering pins the super stock guys were using at the time. If it's not that, I don't know WHY the heck they did it. lol

It sure would be helpful if manufactures and suppliers would provide relevant information such as pin size in addition to thread size. And what pin size is accepted in the perch. I know thats nothing this thread will fix, just the expression of 1 persons opinion.

Well, in any case, I have a working solution.
 
It sure would be helpful if manufactures and suppliers would provide relevant information such as pin size in addition to thread size. And what pin size is accepted in the perch. I know thats nothing this thread will fix, just the expression of 1 persons opinion.

Well, in any case, I have a working solution.
I'd just get a bushing. So simple to make.
 
So, Merry Christmas to all. Hopefully everyone has a relaxing holiday thru the rest of the year.

I am looking for good ride height measurements to get my car based too. Copilot is saying....
  • Front: 14in fender lip to spindle center
  • Rear: 15in fender lip to axle center

Do those numbers look good?

And for starting alignment numbers:
  • Camber: -0.5 to -1.0
  • Caster: +2.5 to +3.5
  • Toe-in: 1/16
I do plan on the car going to alignment shop. I am just trying to get it close to minimize shop hours. Currently we are thinking 4 hrs with all the adjustments planned.

Provided procedure

Camber ~ Use your digital angle gauge on the rotor to measure vertical angle​

Target: –0.75° (perfect balance for street driving)​

How:​

  • Wheels straight
  • Gauge on rotor
  • Adjust upper control arm eccentrics
    • Front eccentric: moves camber & caster
    • Rear eccentric: mostly caster

Caster ~ Caster is what makes the car track straight.​

Target: +3.0° (or as much as you can get evenly)​

How to measure caster at home:​

  1. Turn wheel 20° left
  2. Read camber
  3. Turn wheel 20° right
  4. Read camber
  5. Your gauge will calculate caster OR you can use a simple online calculator

How to adjust:​

  • Rear eccentric OUT (toward the engine) → increases positive caster
  • Front eccentric IN → increases positive caster
Repeat until you get:

  • +2.5° to +3.5°
  • Both sides within 0.3° of each other

Re‑Set Camber ~ Caster changes camber, so now dial camber back in.​


Set Toe Using the String Method

Note: This is extremely accurate when done right.

Setup:​

  • Run a string down each side of the car at axle height
  • Make string parallel to rear wheels
  • Measure from string to front rim (front and back of rim)

Target:​

  • 1/16" total toe‑in (front of tires slightly closer together than rear)

How to adjust:​

  • Turn tie rods equally on both sides
  • Keep steering wheel centered

Center the Steering Wheel

Once toe is correct:
  • Adjust both tie rods evenly
  • Keep toe the same
  • Center the wheel


Thoughts?
 
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Front end alignment bolts....
When the washers are set to 12 oclock setting the arm neutral, is the bolt located at the 12 oclock (top) or the 6 oclock (bottom) of the washer?
 
Guess whats road worthy.

My neighbor and I built my drive line. I got very lucky on this. The rear axle came with the u-joint flange adapter and a stub of drive line. We chucked it up on his lathe and cut thru the weld to separate the u-joint ears from the tube. We then took a measurement and cut off the end of the stock slant six duster drive shaft. Fortunately, the reduced section of the rear of the drive shaft was 2.5 in and matched the ford. So we just welded the ford ears to the end of the duster drive line. Now I have a shorten mopar drive line with 7260 fron u-joints and 1330 rears. It has a new front u-joint and I need to purchase a new rear 1330. That said, the one that came with the rear axle was in good shape. So I reused it for testing.

After getting the drive line installed, looked over the fluids, re installed the fan belt, and hooked up the battery. Started it, let it idle, and then tried moving it. It backed up the driveway enough to remove the chocks. Confirmed it had brakes. And took it down the private road a bit, turned around in an neighbors driveway, and drove it back up hill to my house.

Very short run, but enough to see and say that it runs.
 
Well, I need to locate the wiper linkage. I believe I only need the rod which goes from passenger pivot to driver pivot. Currently I am without wipers. Luckily the next 3 day are to be dry.

If anyone has a spare, let me know. I may post a wanted add, or just minimize driving during winter and spring.
 
i used 'rainex' on a car i built with no wipers. it polishes to a clear finish and disperses/beads the water off well when driving.
neil.
edit... well done getting it driveable :thumbsup:
 
i used 'rainex' on a car i built with no wipers. it polishes to a clear finish and disperses/beads the water off well when driving.
neil.
edit... well done getting it driveable :thumbsup:

Yeah, thats standard operating procedure for me. I live in Washington State, where we dont tan, we rust. But its with all that rain that wipers are mandatory. The rain is what keeps us Green and not burnt.

Thanks for the thumbs up. I am super excited to see this car on the road. We have some dry weather for the next couple of days, I plan on running it a few.
 
Well, today I got the new fuse block build complete. Its a modern replacement for the original. Wire colors and gauges match. Should be a simple cut and solder wire for wire. Now soldering while in the dash is going to not be pleasant. But it should be pretty straight forward.

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Who ever says factory mopar wire is good quality is lying. I can not get the 12 gauge wire to take solder and its pissing me off. I have done ok up to this point, but the 3 main 12 ga wires going to the fuse block wont take solder. No matter what method or use of rosin paste.
 
You know, the last time I dealt with this I used those gold plated rc car motor connectors on the bypass for the Amp meter. I would much rather solder the feed wires from my replacement fuse panel to the harness wires. But those connectors or a automotive water proof connector for 12 ga would be a good alt.
 
Flux sometimes works wonders. Maybe not for you. There are also cleaners that -- I wouldn't say "remove" oxidation, but allow soldering.
 

New update: I have a car which runs. And I have brake lights now. So far all the electrical is checking out. I have built new spark plug wires which have significantly reduced the misfire. I know I had a weak spark, and I am sure that was the result of excessive resistance in the plug wires. The new wires are MSD 8mm with a 500 ohm per foot rating.

I still have a minor misfire. The last thing to work on is what appears to be water in the fuel system. I will be draining the tank tomorrow and filling with fresh new fuel. Hopefully that clears up the run ability issue. After which I may just drive it and see if I can not clean it out on the freeway.

This photo is from the mid point in the project when all the Load's had been soldered in. I was getting ready to fight the 4 source wires including the three 12 gauge.

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Ok, here you go. What the completed replacement fuse panel turned out looking. I now need to tuck the harness back into the proper location within the dashboard and mount the fuse panel plate somewhere within reach along the kick panel. I am really impressed with how it turned out.

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Fuel lines and fuel filter replaced. Switched from 1/4 to 5/16 fuel fittings and hose after fuel pump to match the fuel system pre fuel pump.

Bought heet for use with new fuel.

Hopefully this solves the final issue causing the misfire.
 
No new pictures to show, that said I think I have won the battle against the misfire. After pulling the distributor and adding a second mark for number 1 TDC, I set the engine at 8 degrees before then dropped the distributor in. After that, I went through and readjusted the valves. I also cut the tip off the spark plug boot on my new MSD street fire wires to ensure complete connection between the plug and wire is made. The brake light switch has been replaced, I have found that only my left brake light is working. Need to troubleshoot that again. The harness is more or less put back in place, and I need to deal with the bad cluster. Meanwhile I will be changing the gear oil in the rear end tomorrow.

Is there a good alternative to the wiper switch? Seems impossible to find a replacement one from my local parts stores.

I am missing the little fastener which holds the light switch to the cluster. And I need a new shaft and knob. Any good options here? Looks like I can find that little bolt (if you can call it that) for 1963 & 1964. Although it looks like a match to what I remember being on my 1974 years ago.

All n all, I should be able to test drive it soon.
 
does the indicator work on that side? if so the indicator and brake use the same filament of the bulb so it'll be a wiring fault.
neil.
Sorry for not stating that. Brake lights were tested after installing new brake switch while the harness was still hanging down following the install of the new fuse panel. Both rear turn signal work. Testing of the turn signals was done after I tucked the harness back under the dash following noticing the failed brake light, with that in mind I may have moved a wire or connector which is making contact resulting in both brake lights working again. I have not had a chance to have a second person watch the brake lights since the prior time. I have looked at the harness plug at the A Pillar which goes to the back of the car some time back when I was testing and confirmed all lights were working. Doing a sanity check following my fuse panel install, I now have a brake light not working.

I will follow up
 
I didnt let everyone know that I did end up buying new spark plug wires. Bought MSD Street Fire 8mm spark plug wire set with 500ohm per foot rating. As indicated yesterday, in believing that the spark plug connector is too deep in the boot, I cut the little ring off the base to remove 1/8 in of length ensuring proper engagment between the plug and wire. Considering that the prior wires measured 15k ohms on the #6 and #1 plug's, I believe that this was one of the actions which cleaned up my misfire.

Today, the new MSD connector for the coil is to be delivered. I can remove the wrecking yard GM coil wire I corrected for my distributor cap, and install the coil wire which came with the MSD kit.
 
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