1974 Dodge Dart Sport rebuild

[Builderguy]

Is the section of the manifold that goes into the exhaust pipe, larger on a 340 than a 318? If not, I will just run one of the pieces I have.
My concern is that the manifold section going into the pipe is a bit smaller than the exhaust pipe. I guess I could cut the pipe down a little to tighten it up before it bottoms out.

So when I put them together, it is not a very tight fit.



The two right side manifolds I have are basically the same outlet size.

 

[Builderguy]

Just so you are aware, the factory DS manifold for a '74 is only really different from the 340 you have in that it has the flanges for the heat stove like the 318 manifold.

I had the same 340 manifold you have and swapped to the '74 style so I could get a spark plug boot heat shield.

Doesn't really matter unless you are going for a complete OE look.

If this build would bring more $$$$$ I would try harder for a near perfect OE look, but the money in vs money out is just not there. It will look really good, and most people won't notice the slight liberties I took. Shoot, the way it is going I will have done all this work for about a $1.00 an hour. Good thing I like doing this stuff because at this rate it is not much of a business model. LOL

 

[Builderguy]

These are not for sale pictures are for reference only. I know you asked for 1974 360 but this is my late build 1973 340 car. Pictures are after a quick milling flat. After ported.
note) The spot we hit is very slight looks bad since paint was messed up. But was very slight.

View attachment 1716485996

Perfect, looks just like what I have, minus the heat shield tabs. Hmmmm, maybe a little porting is in order!

 

[TF360]

Don't think pass side came with a heat riser. Here is another look at them.

 

[Builderguy]

Took a minute, but it is back to zero. Anyone know if Performance Car Graphics is back up and running? May need to get the speedo decal, or I could just leave it. IDK, still a little rough.

 

[Builderguy]

On to the rest of the dash. Took it apart to clean up the plastic lenes. Used a little polish and it cleaned up pretty well.

After polishing

Disassembly

Etched plastic

Polished clean

 

[DartManPlum340]

Wheels in the booth ready for paint.

View attachment 1716480670

Done, 3 coats.

View attachment 1716480671

Found time to do the center caps, with the darker argent.

View attachment 1716480672

Tape is off and the paint looks just fine, still need to be shined up.

View attachment 1716480676

Looks good. What color/brand paint did you use on the wheels? Thanks!

 

[DartManPlum340]

Started buffing the body. Wool buffing head first. Foam buffing pad when I get a little more time, to finish it off. Looking pretty good so far!

View attachment 1716484989
View attachment 1716484991View attachment 1716484992

Beautiful! What products are you using to buff? I'm about to start.

 

[Builderguy]

Looks good. What color/brand paint did you use on the wheels? Thanks!

I have the same brand and color in enamel and BC/CC but I used the enamel paint on these. I was going to use the bc/cc but I wanted to try the enamel for a comparison then I ran out of time. IMO the enamel has a little less flake look to it and a little less shine. I guess a little closer to factory IDK. I added some pics of the BC/CC look.

Enamel

BC/CC

 

[Builderguy]

Beautiful! What products are you using to buff? I'm about to start.

I use several different products but this time I used the easy one, same product to both cut, and buff.

 

[mpgmike]

You mentioned cloth electrical tape. I've seen it at either Lowe's or Home Depot. My local Lowe's didn't have it. I did find it at a small town mom & pop hardware store. Most electrical supply houses will have it, and I bet you could get it off Amazon.

 

[Builderguy]

Well this is embarrassing! That sweet paint job on the dash using the high heat paint,

NOT so good. Looked good but had no durability. Even fingers left a mark (gas and oil resistant my ***) that would not come off without scratching the finish. Son of a #@$%&

I sanded it back down and used a satin finish this time. Will take pics once it is dry. You can't win if you don't try!

On a positive note, the dash pad turned out great. I know a lot of folks don't like dash caps, but this fit is pretty dang good. I will take the "W".

 

[Builderguy]

Here are the pics of the "NEW" dash paint adventure with this paint. I'm over it, sometimes you just have to stop!

 

[Builderguy]

Color sanding the hood so I can test fit the hood scoop. A little more orange peel than usual but I was at the edge of the reducer window. Be very mindful of this. Anyway, not hard, just time consuming.

START

LITTLE UGLY

FIRST ROUND WITH 1500

STILL NEEDS MORE SANDING

DONE WITH ROUND ONE, might have to do a 2nd round with 1500 again before the 2000. IDK yet

 

[Builderguy]

Hood scoop time! Hmmm, I see a little work is needed. That is fine, just fine!

 

[Builderguy]

After another round of 1500 grit and a final round of 2000 grit, only sanding scratches remain, Yeah!

 

[Builderguy]

I am trying to figure out the "correct" location for the voltage regulator. I have seen it mounted next to the brake booster, and I have seen it mounted on the passenger inner fender. Which is correct? IDK When I got the car it was located on the inner fender, but this is a transplant engine so I don't know if it is correct and it looks a little odd. The existing wiring harness has it going near the alternator, but I am not sure where this harness came from. Question of the day, "Where is yours?"

AS IT WAS WHEN I GOT IT

OTHERS

HARD TO SEE BUT THESE ARE BOTH UNDER THE BOOSTER ON THE WASHER BOTTLE SIDE

 

[Builderguy]

Started on the wiring (forgot to take pics) but I did insulate the roof.

BEFORE

AFTER

Also glued the headliner material over the repairs.

BEFORE

AFTER

Cost for the insulation and the vinyl was less than $40; labor, well we don't count that anymore

 

[Builderguy]

Prepping the vinyl top for installation. Letting sit out trying to get rid of the fold lines. I really wish they would ship these rolled up. They just don't want to spend the extra money. The dash cap people ship their product in an oversized box that would easily fit a rolled-up top. &*%$#@

ple

 

[JDMopar]

Please don't use spray can glue! It is worth the money to buy the DAP Landau Top glue in a gallon, and then spray it with a primer gun with a 1.7 or 1.8 tip. I got talked into letting someone do a vinyl top for me, and they used the 3M spray bomb glue. First time I rolled the car out into the sun, the top wrinkled up and turned loose. I took it to an upholstery shop and they were able to save the top by reglueing it with DAP.

 

[Builderguy]

On to the instrument panel. This is not hard to disassemble but you have to "break" the melted plastic connections that hold it all together. When going back together you can use a large dull awl "heated up" to re-melt the plastic back into a holding position. Don't forget to watch out for the small alignment tabs. They would be very easy to break off.

Here are what the holding pins look like after their bond is gently broken off.

Plastic gauge cover installed over pins

Metal plate with instrument names installed over pins and pins melted back into a holding position. Just put the heated awl in the center of the pin and gently push down forcing the metal plastic out and over the metal plate.

Rinse and repeat for the brake/oil warning lights

These are the little tabs you have to watch out for

Do NOT forget to replace this small strip of tape or dash lights will be a little dim and the light escaping will light up your floorboard/back of dash.

Finished

 

[Builderguy]

Please don't use spray can glue! It is worth the money to buy the DAP Landau Top glue in a gallon, and then spray it with a primer gun with a 1.7 or 1.8 tip. I got talked into letting someone do a vinyl top for me, and they used the 3M spray bomb glue. First time I rolled the car out into the sun, the top wrinkled up and turned loose. I took it to an upholstery shop and they were able to save the top by reglueing it with DAP.

Yup, that is what I used on the headliner and will be using on the vinyl top. A cheap $39 HF works great, just float the adhesive down to the surface.

This glue

This gun

 

[JDMopar]

That's the exact glue that I have. I bought a gallon to redo the headliner in my 2004 Dakota quad cab. My gun is an oldy goldy siphon feed that I've had forever. Lacquer thinner will clean the glue out just like it does paint...lol.