1974 Dodge Dart Sport rebuild

[Builderguy]

Close, very close!

Hope you all have a Merry Christmas!!!

 

[Builderguy]

Fuel lines are ready, time to put the engine in.

 

[Builderguy]

The wife I and went to bunch of Christmas parties this last week. They were all GREAT. Both of us getting sick from hobnobbing with a bunch of people, not so great. Anyway, no New Years parties for us as we are just getting over this crap. I laid around until it was driving me nuts, so I went out to the barn and threw the engine in. That went very smooth, good thing as I really did not have the strength to fight with anything. PERFECT

 

[TF360]

Looking good!

 

[Builderguy]

On to the torsion bars. Cleaned up and painted. I will add the "factory" paint markings (blue in this case) after installation. Lower control arms fully relaxed and greased up. Bars slid into place on the correct side of the car. I use an old lubed up funnel to put the boots on. Sooooooo easy that way. Literally took one second to give a quick pull and slide them over the hex end of the saft. Once in place, and the lock clips set, the void is filled with grease before the boots are slid into position.

 

[Builderguy]

Propeller Shaft (Yup, that is what Ma Mopar called them) but I will use drive shaft. Anyway, I cleaned up the drive shaft and was just about to spray it Semi-gloss black when that little voice spoke up. Is it Semi-Gloss black, satin black, or was it left natural (I could just clear coat it). IDK, the last time I saw the underside of an original Dart was back in 1979 and the drive shaft was already "rust" colored plus I did drink a bit back then, so even that memory is a little fuzzy. Anyone of you know for sure?

 

[GY3 WEDGE]

Pretty sure they were natural don t remember seeing black driveshaft on a new car, as you say been a long time.

 

[mygasser]

we call them a propshaft here in the uk too and axle shafts are halfshafts (each one being about '1/2' of the axle's width).
neil.

 

[GY3 WEDGE]

Just noticed on post 352 ,is the regulator on rt inner fender . Is it the way they were in 73 & up

 

[Builderguy]

There is a slight problem if you are trying to use the old OEM three post castle nuts with NEW aftermarket upper control arms. The cotter pin holes are drilled too far up the shaft. So far that they barely even show with the OEM nut. Another day, another situation. Just loving it, living the dream!

 

[Builderguy]

Just noticed on post 352 ,is the regulator on rt inner fender . Is it the way they were in 73 & up

I would have to double check for 1973, but for 1974 it is in the correct spot.

 

[Builderguy]

There was a "slight" masking mistake made when protecting the trunk from overspray. I don't know who did it but since I am the only one working on this I have a pretty good idea. Anyway, I had to fix it as the trunk gasket would not cover it. More RE-DO time that I can't stand. A little sanding, a little cleaning, and a little airbrush work will save the day. Just need to let it sit for a bit before the clearcoat application.

 

[Builderguy]

I searched the web for the best way to make my driveshaft look like bare steel without actually being bare and unprotected. I did not want to just apply a clear coat and let it fend for itself. Found a post that used Seymour paint Stainless Steel finish and it looked pretty good. The yolks are a cast iron finish. This is how it turned out. Works for me!

 

[Clelan]

There was a "slight" masking mistake made when protecting the trunk from overspray. I don't know who did it but since I am the only one working on this I have a pretty good idea. Anyway, I had to fix it as the trunk gasket would not cover it. More RE-DO time that I can't stand. A little sanding, a little cleaning, and a little airbrush work will save the day. Just need to let it sit for a bit before the clearcoat application.

View attachment 1716495732View attachment 1716495733View attachment 1716495734

I have wanted to fire my mechanic, my body guy and my tuner, but honestly I am all I can afford! Great work on this!

Cley

 

[Builderguy]

I was a little curious if the rear tires I got (even though I went one size smaller) would fit. They do fit, but just barely. Will double check when I get it on the ground. Right now, the wiring harnesses are being a little bit of a pain. I will win, but a pain right between my eyes is starting to take hold. I did get the NSS figured out, thanks to a little help from Oldmanmopar. I did get

a bunch of parts painted and welded up the damaged battery tray. I guess I will tighten up the door hinges so I can get on with the remaining body panels. They are not broken or damaged, they just have some odd ball parts/pieces installed that did not help their cause.

 

[Builderguy]

I spent a fair amount of time looking for the exhaust tip hangers that mount on the bottom, not the side. No luck! Closest thing was this (thanks Professor Fate) but they needed a little modification. So, I tore it apart!

A little cutting, a little bending, a little welding, and a little luck gave me this:

Add a little paint to finish them off, not a perfect match but not too bad!

 

[Builderguy]

Got the exhaust in today. For the most part it went okay. There was an issue with the tail pipe hanger and the rear muffler clamp. There are very few pictures of the correct assembly. The 1974 parts manual was not much help so I opted for the 1973 parts manual for a guide. The issue was that the hangers would not fit over the muffler outlets so the hanger could not do both functions (hang the tail pipe and clamp the muffler to the tail pipe). It got lot clearer once I looked at the way it was done in 1973.

MANUAL SHOWS THIS, one hanger with clamp and one clamp

Using this approach it now looks like this

And overall, like this

Still an issue with the right tip, but that should be corrected tomorrow sometime. Then off the hoist so I can put the doors on. Maybe!!!

 

[mygasser]

where possible try to turn the clamps sideways so they won't catch on speed humps etc
neil.

 

[Builderguy]

Exhaust is done, for now (final tip adjustments once bumper is on). Had to bend the right tail pipe about a 1/2" in on the radius over the axle to get clearance. All torqued up and locked in place. Puddy cat catchers were cut off and ground flush. Pipes are as equal and as level as I can get them.
Time for some doors.