1974 Dodge Dart Swinger Restoration

[ccsbivens]

First I'll begin with a small introduction. My name's Christian, and I just relocated to Tacoma WA from Atlanta GA. Upon moving, I purchased this 1974 Dodge Dart.
I currently own a couple classics, although I'm 18, I never was really fond of the rice burners my generation seems to enjoy. I've always favored American iron. However this is my first Dodge I've ever owned so my knowledge is very slim on this vehicle, so any information you can provide or anything you feel I should be aware about on Darts or my Dodge in particular is more than welcome
So I wanted to document my build, so I decided to start a thread. I bought this car last weekend for 250$ cash with clean title. The guy was an hour and a half a way and was a asking 500$. He was recently handicapped and had 198 cars on his property to clear out or the county was going to start charging him. After being fed up with people leaving him hanging on various deals, he lowered prices to sell quick. I then talked him down to 250 when I showed up with a trailer and cash in hand.
Here's what I know about it so far
It's all original and pretty complete. Only missing a lot of the starting components which I'm working on rewiring now and the radiator.
It has the 225 slant six with 3 speed automatic
The engine turns over and has good and even compression. Oil looks decent considering and the tranny fluid is beautifully clean and doesn't smell burnt
Has parchment interior in pretty rough shape, but it is functional and most importantly complete
Car also has 5 lug wheels, don't hold me to it, but I think this cars base option was 4 lug
Along with the title also came the original build sheet, so I know she's all original
So let the pictures and restoration commence!
The following pictures are from when she first hit my driveway saturday

My first goal is obviously get her to run. Then I have some electrical issues under the dash to sort through. After I have her running good and electrical fixed, I'll start repairing the rusted floor boards
-Ccsbivens

 

[65dartcharger]

Welcome onboard this great Mopar A-body forum. Nice project to start out with. Glad you found the broadcast sheet as well. It should not be a problem to find different parts for your car here. Good luck!

 

[70DartMike]

Hey, welcome to the site, looks like a good project. I've got some '74 Dart stuff kickin' around if you need anything.
Btw, all A bodies came with a 5 lug wheel. Pre '73, they were all 5 x 4" and '73+ disc brake cars were 5x4.5" but the '73+ drum brake cars were 5 x 4". Hope that clears it up for you.

 

[ccsbivens]

Hey, welcome to the site, looks like a good project. I've got some '74 Dart stuff kickin' around if you need anything.

Will more than likely need an under dash wiring harness soon, not completely sure yet, however I definitely need a fuse panel. Gonna try to salvage my harness, but gotta re wire what's cut to hook up a battery to see what's working and what's not

But I could use some odds & ends
Front turn signal lenses (passenger side to be exact, but will buy both so the wear matches), missing the driver side DART and swinger emblem, parchment passenger kick panel, broke a chrome window crank, need complete parking brake assembly, headlight switch complete w/knob and would love to find a parchment front bench seat in better condition than mine to last me till I'm ready to work the interior
Also, I'm missing the little strip of chrome that goes under the passenger door on the outside, I have the driver side as you can see in the pictures. I have a feeling that's gonna be hard to find, so if someone has one that'd be pretty cool
That's my list so far from my minor run through I've done on the car, if anyone has any of that, pm me

Also, anyone know the size of the starter motor and alternator bolts so I can pick some up at the hardware store? Autozone sells universal ones, but they're too long.
Thanks, ccsbivens

 

[ccsbivens]

Can someone tell me what this is?
I've been giving the car a good run through to get a parts list together
I thought it was a separate trans cooler at first, but was discouraged on that assumption when I tried to hook it back up.
Thanks, ccsbivens

 

[cosgig]

A/C condenser and related components!!

 

[Dartn440]

A/C condenser and related components!!

Yep what he said. And yes all have 5 bolt. Disc is BBP and drum small. Looks like you won't be searching for a lot of parts as a lot are still there. Does look like you are missing the AC under hood bracket and pump though. I redid a 74 and still have parts if you need stuff I can try to help. Good luck and welcome.

 

[ccsbivens]

Yep what he said. And yes all have 5 bolt. Disc is BBP and drum small. Looks like you won't be searching for a lot of parts as a lot are still there. Does look like you are missing the AC under hood bracket and pump though. I redid a 74 and still have parts if you need stuff I can try to help. Good luck and welcome.

I've found a couple things I need.. missing the brackets for the radiator, however it mounts. Also looking for the passenger outside rocker panel trim. Also missing pieces to the throttle linkage on the carb, probably will need a complete one to take parts from. And the kickdown linkage is missing
-Ccsbivens

 

[ccsbivens]

A/C condenser and related components!!

Thanks! Looked at the build sheet, no factory a.c. So I removed it
-Ccsbivens

 

[Dartn440]

Sometimes AC added at dealer as option with cars. I will look in my storage I might have one of those trim pieces...might have a dent or two but a start. I will get back to you. The rest you can find new pretty easy for linkages.

 

[ccsbivens]

Sometimes AC added at dealer as option with cars. I will look in my storage I might have one of those trim pieces...might have a dent or two but a start. I will get back to you. The rest you can find new pretty easy for linkages.

A dented one would be perfect, it'd match the driver side ;)
-Ccsbivens

 

[ccsbivens]

So I have been trying to start the Dart for 2 days now with no success. Maybe you guys can shed light on my situation..
Tried to get it to crank yesterday with no success. My first issue was a weak spark, found out it was a bad ignition coil and corroded connection that grounds the body to the engine. Fixed it and have a good blue spark on each cylinder
At this point she wants to start. But won't. I'll try to explain to the best of my ability
I put gas in the carb and try to get her to crank pumping the pedal at the same time I engage the starter. Sometimes she'll fire pretty strong, but most of the time the engine will weakly begin to crank, sounds like she's firing healthy; no weird grumbling or shuddering, its just very quiet/weak. She starts to crank like this while the starter is spinning, but when I disengage the starter thinking she's about to crank I get nothing. No backfire, no sputter -nothing. Although it does seem like every time I go out there to crank her after giving the starter a break, it seems to slowly get better, but still goes dead when the starter isn't pushing it along.. maybe I'm starting to get things moving after sitting so long and just need to keep trying?

I've replaced the coil, replaced the plugs, I'm getting good spark, and the wire set are in the correct order, I plan to check the ignition timing tomorrow to rule out a bad distributor.

I think it may be a compression issue but I'm praying it isn't and kinda afraid of checking.. but I understand if it bad compression nothing else I do is gonna fix my problem. Bad compression will probably push me towards not pursuing this project if I have to do major engine over hauling.. Does this sound like a compression issue? Or could it be something simpler?

What do you guys think is going on?
Thanks, ccsbivens

 

[harrisonm]

Great looking project. FYI, in case you did not know, the 1969 Barracuda one year only hood (with the centerline hump) mad a re-appearance for your 1969 car. I like the color combo, please consider sticking with it.

 

[ccsbivens]

Great looking project. FYI, in case you did not know, the 1969 Barracuda one year only hood (with the centerline hump) mad a re-appearance

Did not know that! I love these little known facts
And I will if I can do any necessary engine repairs without having to drop the motor. If I was back in Georgia where I had a full shop I would, but I just don't have the tools to do any major overhauling..

 

[Dodge72]

When I saw this post, I almost thought it was me; recently moved to WA, and recently got a 72, not 74 nontheless Dodge Dart that wasn't running!

Last week though I did get it running though. I ended up getting a new distributor since the other that was in there was something cheap and just not fitting in properly. Checking the wiring diagrams from the manual helped to fix some messed up wires, but it seems like you're getting strong spark so maybe it's your points and/or timing? I don't know if you checked your timing yet to rule it out.

 

[ccsbivens]

When I saw this post, I almost thought it was me; recently moved to WA, and recently got a 72, not 74 nontheless Dodge Dart that wasn't running!

Last week though I did get it running though. I ended up getting a new distributor since the other that was in there was something cheap and just not fitting in properly. Checking the wiring diagrams from the manual helped to fix some messed up wires, but it seems like you're getting strong spark so maybe it's your points and/or timing? I don't know if you checked your timing yet to rule it out.

They switched to electronic ignition in 73. I'm going To check to make sure the distributor is working properly today

 

[ccsbivens]

Timing chain is severely stretched, gonna replace it and see if that changes anything. I'm willing to bet thats why the car was parked.
-ccsbivens

 

[ccsbivens]

Waiting for a bunch of parts I ordered from RockAuto, my favorite place to get most of my parts. While I wait, started rust repair.
Never used fiberglass before, so I practiced with the trunk. I first removed all the rust, then painted the floor with POR-15 Rust Stabalizer. Then I sanded back to bear metal in the places the metal was the thickest and structurally stable then cleaned the metal with rubbing alcohol then applied the fiberglass following the instructions. One layer cloth, 3 layers of matting, and about a gallon of resin.
It turned out fantastic for a first try! A bit sloppy in the wheel well, but that was my first section. Gonna paint the fiberglass flat black and cover it with a trunk mat
Gonna patch the floor boards tomorrow
I'm naturally a metal worker, been welding for 4 years and traditional blacksmithing since I was 8. Went with fiberglass however since I just didn't really wanna drop the bills on a nice welder i really don't have room for and didn't wanna waste my money on a cheap one.
But I'm pleased with the fiberglass!
Will take pictures of progress on the floorboards tomorrow

 

[Dartnut]

You do realize that fiberglass has no strength to it right?
With the unibody cars, it's very important that you repair any rusty sheet metal with steel, especially the floors......

 

[TylerW]

The radiator just bolts in. 4 bolts, 2 on a side. The "brackets" are made on to the side of the radiator, assuming the correct radiator is still there.

As far as the stopping running when letting off the key goes, pick up a new ballast resistor if you haven't yet. White ceramic box on the left rear firewall. The fail and when they do the engine only runs with the key in the START position.

It has the wrong alternator on it. Looks like possibly a GM or Ford alternator. I would get the right one back on there. If it has AC then it requires a 2-groove pulley.

Otherwise looks like a fun project. You may want to hook up with folks in your area that might have some of the missing parts you might need. Remember to stay focused and don't get distracted with taking things apart before you have a running car.

 

[ccsbivens]

I was under the impression fiberglass is strong. I went thick on the floor, major attention to prep and it turned out fine. I then jacked the back left of the car up on a stand about 2-3 feet and the same with the front right and all 4 wheels left the ground with not flexing and cracking in the floor... so it seems sturdy enough to me. Not to mention it should get stronger as cures.

The radiator just bolts in. 4 bolts, 2 on a side. The "brackets" are made on to the side of the radiator, assuming the correct radiator is still there.

As far as the stopping running when letting off the key goes, pick up a new ballast resistor if you haven't yet. White ceramic box on the left rear firewall. The fail and when they do the engine only runs with the key in the START position.

It has the wrong alternator on it. Looks like possibly a GM or Ford alternator. I would get the right one back on there. If it has AC then it requires a 2-groove pulley.

Otherwise looks like a fun project. You may want to hook up with folks in your area that might have some of the missing parts you might need. Remember to stay focused and don't get distracted with taking things apart before you have a running car.

Great input, thanks. Definately was planning on replacing the alternator due to it being attached with a coat hanger. The ballast resistor is cheap, seems like a good move. Will definitely order one. Thanks again!
-Ccsbivens