1990 360 Build To Replace My Slant Six In My 72 Demon

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David burton

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I pulled 1990 360 from a van to put in my 1972 dodge demon. I have a few question if anyone can help me out. As of right now, it has the original EFI and I am thinking of taking it off and going to a carb setup, I am not a very good electrician and don't believe I can use the original harness...
 
Sorry, My whole post did not make it in the first one. I am looking for any recommendation on parts. I trying to build an everyday driver with over 300hp. The engine is rated at around 190hp stock. There is 100 different option to choose from and I would like help from people that built this motors before.
I am looking at a Camshaft Kit (Hydraulic-Great for Street Machines, largest cam for stock converter, 273-318 works best with 2000 stall. Xtreme Energy Hydraulic Flat Tappet Camshafts.
Intake Duration:268;Exhaust Duration:280;Intake Duration @ .050" Lift:224;Exhaust Duration @ .050" Lift:230) and Edelbrock 2075 single-qual intake and 4-barral 800 cfm carb. There is a lot different options and what to reach out help. Thank you
 
Sorry, My whole post did not make it in the first one. I am looking for any recommendation on parts. I trying to build an everyday driver with over 300hp. The engine is rated at around 190hp stock. There is 100 different option to choose from and I would like help from people that built this motors before.
I am looking at a Camshaft Kit (Hydraulic-Great for Street Machines, largest cam for stock converter, 273-318 works best with 2000 stall. Xtreme Energy Hydraulic Flat Tappet Camshafts.
Intake Duration:268;Exhaust Duration:280;Intake Duration @ .050" Lift:224;Exhaust Duration @ .050" Lift:230) and Edelbrock 2075 single-qual intake and 4-barral 800 cfm carb. There is a lot different options and what to reach out help. Thank you
Let's look at it again:
  • 190 is net. When you say you want 300+, that is usually gross hp. Big difference.
  • Your motor is a roller cam motor. Good for todays oils. You can go flat tappet, but you'll need different push rods.
  • Your motor has good heads.... 308 casting.
  • These engines run strong. I ran one still using the factory TBI, single exhaust with factory manifolds in a D150 (stock 3.21 gears) and went lower 15's. I would say with a good 4bbl and headers, you'd be pretty close to 300 hp gross. Yes, an upgraded cam will push you over the 300.
  • What I'd do, is put a DUAL PLANE intake on it, maybe the Eddy RPM. Put at least 700 cfm's on top (it came, I think, with a 670 cfm TBI). Put it in the car like that, with a set of headers. If you want a little more, home porting the heads and cutting them .040 will be a nice increase. that cam is a torque monster, you may like it being well-mannered and torquey for the street.
 
308 heads sposed to be best factory offerings! roller cam motor!! id get compression up to 9.5to1 and cam intake carb and headers!! should be all you been dreaming of...
 
Thanks for the information everyone, is there a cam you would recommend.[/QUOTE
send the factory cam to oragon cams or racer brown and have it re ground to there recommendations thayll wanta know all bout your motor and car weight gears TQ stall and all,..cost bout 150 bucks
 
Sorry, My whole post did not make it in the first one. I am looking for any recommendation on parts. I trying to build an everyday driver with over 300hp. The engine is rated at around 190hp stock. There is 100 different option to choose from and I would like help from people that built this motors before.
I am looking at a Camshaft Kit (Hydraulic-Great for Street Machines, largest cam for stock converter, 273-318 works best with 2000 stall. Xtreme Energy Hydraulic Flat Tappet Camshafts.
Intake Duration:268;Exhaust Duration:280;Intake Duration @ .050" Lift:224;Exhaust Duration @ .050" Lift:230) and Edelbrock 2075 single-qual intake and 4-barral 800 cfm carb. There is a lot different options and what to reach out help. Thank you

Look into Mancini Racing refresh kits as a start for your rebuild:

Basic start:

Sealed Power Engine Kit - 360


A little deeper, I would recommend asking them to upgrade to higher compression pistons for an extra charge... These are in the 8 range, the other ones will be near the 9's in compression:

Sealed Power Engine Rebuild Kit - 360

Main kit page:

Engine Rebuild Kits


Then I would recommend this timing chain, it's one step above the stock 340 double roller, it's a true roller double roller:

Edelbrock
 
Putting a 268* cam in it will raise the horsepower all right, but it will do this by raising the rpm of that peak power. It will trade away low-rpm power to get that hi-rpm power.
So lets talk about what is happening. in terms of road speed. Your slanty car probably has 2.76s in it. And your new teener probably will make peak power with a 4bbl and headers NO CAM,and NO compression boost, of about 260crank hp, or a bit more. And it will do it at about under 4000 rpm. With2.76s, this will be about 42mph@4000. The stock cam starts making torque right off idle and by 2400rpm is peaking. This is 26 mph. So what you have with the stock cam is a very strong blast off to 26 mph, then as power is building, the teener "rockets" ahead to build peak acceleration at 42 mph, then as the power falls off, she will be done by maybe 4800 with the 4bbl and headers, which will be 48mph@4800.
This is almost ideal power delivery for a streeter.
>Now lets put that 268* in her.
This will move the power peak up to 5000 or so, and the torque peak up to 3800. The road speeds associated with these numbers are 41 and 54. Furthermore, the low speed torque will be traded away to get those few horsepower at the top. So now your car will be slower up to 26 mph, then build acceleration to equal what you had before at maybe 35mph, and then begin to rocket in acceleration, to peak at 54 and run down the backside of the curve to be running out of steam at 62mph.
There is no getting around this.
>To recover the bottom end you have two or three options; waay more rear gear, and/or way more TC. I would guess that the fix would be at least 3.23s and a 2800TC.And a healthy dose of compression.
Were you aware of this, and are you prepared for it?
>Knowing that the car is gonna need gears and a TC no matter what, here's an idea; Put them in NOW! It will save you going thru the too-big-cam syndrome with the lazy low rpm performance. I would also suggest, at this time, to skip a cam altogether, until you see what 260 crank hp feels like in your new barnstormer.
The cam increase works best with a compression boost, which calls for a complete engine overhaul. If you skip the boost, you are heading down a trail of disappointment. The overhaul may escalate to 4Gs or more. Are you prepared for that?
>So, in the interest of saving you this aggravation and disappointment, why not go ahead and do TC and the gears first.

>Lets look at that 260hp engine again with 3.55s and a 2800 tc
This Tc will let your engine spool up to where the torque is, and the power starts. And the 3.55s will put it to the ground earlier and faster.Whatever power that engine has,these new gears will multiply it by the difference in the gear ratios, so; 3.55/2.76 more times than before. This is a 29% boost. This is about 3 times what a camchange will do for you. But unlike a cam,which trades away low-rpm for hi-rpm, this is an across the board increase. More TM (torque-multiplication) from idle to whenever it blows up. Next is the TC. By letting the engine spool up to a new higher rpm, lowspeed performance is also increased, just what the teener needs. This boost is fleeting, tho. It starts as soon as you hit the gas, with a healthy dose of Giddy-up, but this kindof slips away as the roadspeed increases , also perfect for a teener.
So lets throw out some numbers;
>With these changes, you will be able to smoke your skinny rollers back there, so the next thing will be getting bigger tires and a traction aider and of course an LSD. Once that is sorted, And you can actually floor it; this is what I see.
>I see the teener blasting out of the gate to its rpm of peak torque, which with the new TC is at less than zero miles per hour, so no more waiting til 26mph. Then,I see the mighty teener "rocketing to it's power peak,still at 4000 or less, but now at 35 mph instead of 42.Then I see acceleration slowing a bit as the engine approaches shift-rpm of 4800@42mph, instead of 48. So all your engines power will be used up by 42 mph instead of 48. This is about 13% earlier, and the blast-off is vastly superior, with the bigger TC.
The result of all this is that your ET from zero to top-of-first-gear is going to be waaay quicker; because of the more average power put down per unit of time.
> I suggest adequate spring pressure to allow up to 5500 rpm shifts. Then you can extend the run from 42mph, back up to 48mph, when you need to. Power will be dropping off rapidly after 42, but sometimes a few extra hundred rpms comes in handy.

Long story short; I would leave the long-block alone. I would get some more gear under there with an LSD, and a 2800TC and some valve-springs and of course,bigger tires. The biggest tires you can fit . I would have fun with this, until such time as you have become accustomed to the performance, and it becomes not-enough for you. At that time I would drop in a stock long-block 5.9 This will be able to use all your bolt-ons and will be a 360/318= a 13.2% increase; or from 260ish to 290ish And you do not suffer the gas mileage hit. Camming up the 5.9 is no different than camming up the teener. Low-rpm power is traded away for hi-rpm power, and every cam change should be accompanied with a compression change;and very often a new rear gear to release the power in a timely fashion.
 
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Putting a 268* cam in it will raise the horsepower all right, but it will do this by raising the rpm of that peak power. It will trade away low-rpm power to get that hi-rpm power.
So lets talk about what is happening. in terms of road speed. Your slanty car probably has 2.76s in it. And your new teener probably will make peak power with a 4bbl and headers NO CAM,and NO compression boost, of about 260crank hp, or a bit more. And it will do it at about under 4000 rpm. With2.76s, this will be about 42mph@4000. The stock cam starts making torque right off idle and by 2400rpm is peaking. This is 26 mph. So what you have with the stock cam is a very strong blast off to 26 mph, then as power is building, the teener "rockets" ahead to build peak acceleration at 42 mph, then as the power falls off, she will be done by maybe 4800 with the 4bbl and headers, which will be 48mph@4800.
This is almost ideal power delivery for a streeter.
>Now lets put that 268* in her.
This will move the power peak up to 5000 or so, and the torque peak up to 3800. The road speeds associated with these numbers are 41 and 54. Furthermore, the low speed torque will be traded away to get those few horsepower at the top. So now your car will be slower up to 26 mph, then build acceleration to equal what you had before at maybe 35mph, and then begin to rocket in acceleration, to peak at 54 and run down the backside of the curve to be running out of steam at 62mph.
There is no getting around this.
>To recover the bottom end you have two or three options; waay more rear gear, and/or way more TC. I would guess that the fix would be at least 3.23s and a 2800TC.And a healthy dose of compression.
Were you aware of this, and are you prepared for it?
>Knowing that the car is gonna need gears and a TC no matter what, here's an idea; Put them in NOW! It will save you going thru the too-big-cam syndrome with the lazy low rpm performance. I would also suggest, at this time, to skip a cam altogether, until you see what 260 crank hp feels like in your new barnstormer.
The cam increase works best with a compression boost, which calls for a complete engine overhaul. If you skip the boost, you are heading down a trail of disappointment. The overhaul may escalate to 4Gs or more. Are you prepared for that?
>So, in the interest of saving you this aggravation and disappointment, why not go ahead and do TC and the gears first.

>Lets look at that 260hp engine again with 3.55s and a 2800 tc
This Tc will let your engine spool up to where the torque is, and the power starts. And the 3.55s will put it to the ground earlier and faster.Whatever power that engine has,these new gears will multiply it by the difference in the gear ratios, so; 3.55/2.76 more times than before. This is a 29% boost. This is about 3 times what a camchange will do for you. But unlike a cam,which trades away low-rpm for hi-rpm, this is an across the board increase. More TM (torque-multiplication) from idle to whenever it blows up. Next is the TC. By letting the engine spool up to a new higher rpm, lowspeed performance is also increased, just what the teener needs. This boost is fleeting, tho. It starts as soon as you hit the gas, with a healthy dose of Giddy-up, but this kindof slips away as the roadspeed increases , also perfect for a teener.
So lets throw out some numbers;
>With these changes, you will be able to smoke your skinny rollers back there, so the next thing will be getting bigger tires and a traction aider and of course an LSD. Once that is sorted, And you can actually floor it; this is what I see.
>I see the teener blasting out of the gate to its rpm of peak torque, which with the new TC is at less than zero miles per hour, so no more waiting til 26mph. Then,I see the mighty teener "rocketing to it's power peak,still at 4000 or less, but now at 35 mph instead of 42.Then I see acceleration slowing a bit as the engine approaches shift-rpm of 4800@42mph, instead of 48. So all your engines power will be used up by 42 mph instead of 48. This is about 13% earlier, and the blast-off is vastly superior, with the bigger TC.
The result of all this is that your ET from zero to top-of-first-gear is going to be waaay quicker; because of the more average power put down per unit of time.
> I suggest adequate spring pressure to allow up to 5500 rpm shifts. Then you can extend the run from 42mph, back up to 48mph, when you need to. Power will be dropping off rapidly after 42, but sometimes a few extra hundred rpms comes in handy.

Long story short; I would leave the long-block alone. I would get some more gear under there with an LSD, and a 2800TC and some valve-springs and of course,bigger tires. The biggest tires you can fit . I would have fun with this, until such time as you have become accustomed to the performance, and it becomes not-enough for you. At that time I would drop in a stock long-block 5.9 This will be able to use all your bolt-ons and will be a 360/318= a 13.2% increase; or from 260ish to 290ish And you do not suffer the gas mileage hit. Camming up the 5.9 is no different than camming up the teener. Low-rpm power is traded away for hi-rpm power, and every cam change should be accompanied with a compression change;and very often a new rear gear to release the power in a timely fashion.
AJ, ..... LOL you spend way too much time "typing", and not enough time reading. He doesn't have a "teener". The OP starts the opening post with "1990 360"
 
Lmao
Oh man there goes three hours of my life I'll never get back.........
Where's the clip and save button?
Look into Mancini Racing refresh kits as a start for your rebuild:

Basic start:

Sealed Power Engine Kit - 360


A little deeper, I would recommend asking them to upgrade to higher compression pistons for an extra charge... These are in the 8 range, the other ones will be near the 9's in compression:

Sealed Power Engine Rebuild Kit - 360

Main kit page:

Engine Rebuild Kits


Then I would recommend this timing chain, it's one step above the stock 340 double roller, it's a true roller double roller:

Edelbrock
Thank you for the info. I am going to email
Lmao
Oh man there goes three hours of my life I'll never get back.........
Where's the clip and save button?

Thanks for all the information, I really do appreciate the help. I decide to hold off on the cam until I test the engine out with the bar min changes. I got a Dual Plane intake and an 800 carb to go with it. I will probably do the cam swap a little later. My next question is would I have to change the distributor with switching to carb.
 
Thanks for all the information, I really do appreciate the help. I decide to hold off on the cam until I test the engine out with the bar min changes. I got a Dual Plane intake and an 800 carb to go with it. I will probably do the cam swap a little later. My next question is would I have to change the distributor with switching to carb.
It is probably a lean burn distributor or computer operated so a new one might be a good idea.
 
AJ, with all the love and a smile on my face, the following is said, NOT to piss you off or insult but STHU!





trying to build an everyday driver with over 300hp. The engine is rated at around 190hp stock. There is 100 different option to choose from and I would like help from people that built this motors before.
I am looking at a Camshaft Kit (Hydraulic-Great for Street Machines, largest cam for stock converter, 273-318 works best with 2000 stall. Xtreme Energy Hydraulic Flat Tappet Camshafts.
Intake Duration:268;Exhaust Duration:280;Intake Duration @ .050" Lift:224;Exhaust Duration @ .050" Lift:230) and Edelbrock 2075 single-qual intake and 4-barral 800 cfm carb. There is a lot different options and what to reach out help. Thank you

David, AJ is only trying to help, but is over analytical. Splitting hairs not just once but 5 ways until Sunday.

Here is my take on a 300 HP 360 engine.

Should the engine be in good shape to begin with.....

There is no shame copying an engine build. Start with a look at the 340 engine. Copy it and add headers.

You do not need the higher compression ratio to obtain the power. The 340 actually made more than 300 HP and adding headers improves that power.

A stock intake and carb can deliver the power you seek easy, BUT...
The RPM intake will add power. IMO, approx. 20 HP. The 800 carb will not add any significant power. But should be easy to obtain parts for tuning over a TQ carb (which I like better.)

For your car, I suggest headers by Doug or tti headers. Awesome fit without smashing them on the road. They are pricey but OH so well worth the cost.
(TTI also sells a complete header back to the bumper exhaust kit in a box. I had minor trimming on mine.)

I would like to see this done with the stock heads and 2.02-1.60 valves with a good valve job.

You can use less camshaft duration then the one you list above. The cam manufactures can get you a copy of the 340 cam easy. The 90's area engine is a Hyd. roller cam engine. Send in the core or purchase a new one, your call. Re-use the factory roller lifters on your new or reground cam.

Should your engine need to be rebuilt, IMO, a set of speed pro slugs are an excellent slug for the project and Summit racing sells them with rings for a good price. Just tell your machinist that you want a 9.0-1 (no higher than 9.5-1) ratio for pump gas and iron heads with the cam specs your going to use.

All this from the ...
"Been there, done that camp."

Upgrade the rear end to a 8-1/4 min.
Any gear ratio from 2.94 - 3.55'snwill work. Make sure the V8 trans is in good shape before installing it. (You can not use the /6 trans.)
 
These slugs:
IMG_0146.JPG


This intake and carb:

image.jpg


These headers:
image.jpg
 
I like the pictures with the text on the selections to make, just like going to a fast food joint!
 
AJ, with all the love and a smile on my face, the following is said, NOT to piss you off or insult but STHU!







David, AJ is only trying to help, but is over analytical. Splitting hairs not just once but 5 ways until Sunday.

Here is my take on a 300 HP 360 engine.

Should the engine be in good shape to begin with.....

There is no shame copying an engine build. Start with a look at the 340 engine. Copy it and add headers.

You do not need the higher compression ratio to obtain the power. The 340 actually made more than 300 HP and adding headers improves that power.

A stock intake and carb can deliver the power you seek easy, BUT...
The RPM intake will add power. IMO, approx. 20 HP. The 800 carb will not add any significant power. But should be easy to obtain parts for tuning over a TQ carb (which I like better.)

For your car, I suggest headers by Doug or tti headers. Awesome fit without smashing them on the road. They are pricey but OH so well worth the cost.
(TTI also sells a complete header back to the bumper exhaust kit in a box. I had minor trimming on mine.)

I would like to see this done with the stock heads and 2.02-1.60 valves with a good valve job.

You can use less camshaft duration then the one you list above. The cam manufactures can get you a copy of the 340 cam easy. The 90's area engine is a Hyd. roller cam engine. Send in the core or purchase a new one, your call. Re-use the factory roller lifters on your new or reground cam.

Should your engine need to be rebuilt, IMO, a set of speed pro slugs are an excellent slug for the project and Summit racing sells them with rings for a good price. Just tell your machinist that you want a 9.0-1 (no higher than 9.5-1) ratio for pump gas and iron heads with the cam specs your going to use.

All this from the ...
"Been there, done that camp."

Upgrade the rear end to a 8-1/4 min.
Any gear ratio from 2.94 - 3.55'snwill work. Make sure the V8 trans is in good shape before installing it. (You can not use the /6 trans.)
Thanks for the help, I am going to look into the header tonight. I was hoping to use the orignal transmission, go thing I keep the transmission with the 360.
 
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