1992 Dodge Dakota 5.2 Magnum advice

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MagnumDakota said:
Thanks for the replies... AJ do i think 4.56 gears would b to much? Also if I stay with the fuel injection do u think I would see any gains with the Hughes f.i. air gap set up? Would it be worth it or just keep the the stock kegger? I think it would be worth it 2 drop the 5.9 in there? Pretty much a direct swap and I can keep the f.i. etc... Would also put a converter in there with the motor swap. Thanks again
Click to expand...
Yes I think 4.56s are too much, because of the way it affects streetability.
Firstly; the KD at 30 mph becomes ~4400 and basically you have no place to go cuz the tires will light up,and in a split second your engine will be at redline, and the governor will be calling for an upshift.If it doesn't spin, 4800 will be 33mph in first. But if you stay in second, the Rs will only be ~2600... so don't be expecting to be picking up much speed any time soon. To get around that you;d need more cam, more cylinder pressure and more rpm.
Secondly; 60mph will be ~5200 in second, about 400/500 rpm past the power-peak, and firmly on the declining side.So you are gonna need a bigger cam to get back to optimum; and that is at least two sizes, so your cylinder pressure is going, going.......
Thirdly; 65mph=2540 in loc-up,11% higher than 4.10s and so ~ 6% increase in steady-state fuel consumption.
Fourth; the effective-starter gear becomes 4.56x2.45x24/27x1.05=10.43;with an instantaneous ~18/1 at zero mph. This 10.43 starter is waaay more starter than you need in day-to-day operation, and your trans will only be in it for a second or two, whenever you take off, when you are driving normally. But, I do think the rest of the gears will be nice around town, and whenever just poking around. So if you see a cam in your future, then with the 4.56s you would be ready.
So, if you want to ditch the Keg then I recommend the 5.9 as a way of getting the low-rpm torque back, and then you can run a carb. And then you won't need the 4.56s.... nor the 4.10s..... lol. Ima thinking 3.91s, a 2800TC, and a 228* cam, with lots of cylinder pressure. If you want to keep the current cylinder pressure, well then back to the 4.10s and no cam. Or maybe a 220 fast-rate, solid; it kindo depends on the current pressure.
The 5.9 would be my pic, but the 255/60-15s would be history.Then it's like Rumble says,the stock cam leaves a lot of rpm in the garage. And rpm is power. So your 5.9 would need the 1-2-3 punch of more cam,better air-flow, and restore at least some cylinder pressure.Now the 4.56s are making sense. And if you don't restore the cylinder pressure, she'd want a bigger TC.

And around and 'round it goes.

Ok I changed my mind. I'd like to keep the 5.2 untouched. So I'll take 10% more gear and 10% taller tires, thanks; so 4.56s and fat 29s, oh, and ladder bars. oh and dual exhaust. My zero to 60 is coming along nicely now so.....
So, next, I want a fast-rate solid lifter cam, headers , cold air, some programming........ and a bigger TC..
I guess about now my brakes are getting left behind, so those will need to go on the to-do list
But IIRC , at this level, Ima gonna need to ditch the electronics, so now I need a carb and intake, and a proper ignition system.

And round and round it goes.

But hey the chassis is about ready now, so Ima thinking 5.9 time. Make mine a stroker... lol.Ima thinkin' that 4-something is gonna need some new heads, a bigger cam again,and a new TC... again.
Honey.. I know you said you wanted a baby but I need another year...... maybe two.

round and round it goes.
 
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Though I have to laugh a little at what 4.56’s would do for a street light to light bandit. Taking stock in tire companies?
 
Well I ordered the 4.10 gears. So I'm going with the 4.10s. Do u guys think I should swap a 5.9 in there or just run the 5.2?? I can pick up a 5.9 no problem. And I will be ordering a converter soon. I do plan on a cam swap after I have the gears installed and get the converter. Maybe I would b better off just running the 5.2 Thanks again
 
If the 5.9 is cheap, I’d get it for a temporary coffee table until the 5.2 gives out.
 
In regards to the torque the beer keg gives. About 15 years ago, the dakota club I belonged to had a dyno day. I have a 97 5.2L with the original MP r/t cam, 1.7 rr's, shorty headers and the MP MPI single plane intake with the hypertech tune. Numbers were 247rwhp and 265 rwtq. My friend had a 93 with the 5.2, basically identical setup except he had the stock intake and MP PCM being OBD 1. IIRC, he was down 30 hp, but gained 20 tq. Some people have shortened the runners on the kegger to give a little more RPM, but I have not heard what loses that may cause on the bottom end.
 
I would like to pick up a extra motor and fix it up as I go.... When it's ready drop it in the truck. Cam and head work etc... So if I can get a deal on a 5.9 I will just get it for the future and start on it as budget allows. So I am going with 4.10s and a converter now. The converter im looking at is 2800-3000 rpm stall so I believe i will get that one. Thanks again
 
I have a 92 with about 300k miles
355 sure grip
tow a lot
MP heads (blowout at the dealer when stepfather cracked the stock ones driving to the next exit with no water)
can't make the MP computer work on california Gas
Maremont Motorhome 3" in and out turbo mufler- same size as the cat
Transgo tranny kit plus dieselized with straight cut gears and more plates etc
half inch cooler lines and big cooler
my advice
get your tune lined up before doing anything to the motor ODB I is tough and expensive
let me know what you find as I have not looked in years
cam advice was right on go bigger and the tune and exhaust only moves the rpm range up, kills the low end and chokes the top end
long term 5.9- I have one on the engine stand)
1.7 rockers are not worth the money and you have to dial in the geometry to really make them work PITA
that said Jones inverse radius cam designs work best for HR
converter
I run braised and needle bearings (B&B)and have low stall and high stall low stall works best with stock cam
make your trans bulletproof before adding power
later trans use 47 guts 92-93 with the smaller shaft use the diesel parts
use only genuine factory or Dana Spicer U joints
only ones with real deep case hardening/ heat treating no fking electro or flame "hardening"
I run the service bulletin fan clutch and 9 blade fan but am going to try the GM 11 blade fan (more blades and less pitch is more efficient and quieter)
I also have an electric pusher (makes the AC work better in stop and go traffic)
radiator is out of a 73 New Yorker and AC Condenser is from a Dual Air MaxiVan
get your traction nailed down so you do not tear up your drivetrain and chassis
I've tried the kegger mods but they are counterproductive for towing
If I changed cams I'd go same or shorter with more area under the curve/ more lift and clean up the heads some more I did pocket port and good valve job on the MP heads Viton seals
92 great motor/ tranny/ truck when done right
 
Let's remember that during the 90's and early 00's, no one seemingly could build a transmission worth a crap. Remember all the failures during and just after the warranty periods? I sure do.

That being said, I noticed that the R/T models don't seem to have that many trans problems.
Wonder why? Mine has never been rebuilt at over 170,000 many of which have been hard towing, while most of my friends with similar year non-R/T trucks are on their second rebuild.
 
You have any pics of the truck? I have had three R/T trucks over the years but my 95 is by far my favorite. With what it sounds like you want to do the OBD1 can be made to work. Mine is pushed to the ragged edge of what it can manage but it does it fine. I will be going to aftermarket EFI setup in the future because it will be a must with the next motor but.....I am running a mild 5.9, (mild cam, Mopar perf. M1, 24lbs injectors, Gibson shorties, and fastman throttle body, this is run on a Mopar performance 5.2 module. I went from the stock 3.21 to a 3.91 and hated it. Granted my truck is a five speed and first in the NV3500 is to deep for the 3.91. My truck is actually faster with the taller gear for this reason. You shouldn't have that problem. Use the gear you ordered, buy some decent heads for the 5.9, stay mild with the camshaft, and buy the MP module. The truck will be plenty fast and great to drive.
 
and ATF 4+
however CITGO Quatrosyn is the only premium atf I've used
it is fully Syn not semi syn like the earlier designed +4 and works much better in very cold or very hot environments
also has a much longer service life
I would think snowplow in Michigan or similar use\\\

1/2 inch lines and in and out to the cooler flow ever so much more oil- and that is what cools the thrust washers which is what fails in the MOPAR OD's
back pressure measured at the trans output drops from around 45 pounds to 15 pounds
factory flow of a quart in 20 seconds in not sufficient IMHO and factory coolers in the radiator tank plug easily (converter clutch wear crap) and are impossible to flush/ clean
later builds have a filter
if not install a transdapt inline adapter and a big oil filter- will save your cooler if you loose a converter
 
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