1st time engine removal

-
HemiTM

HemiTM

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 29, 2010
Messages
759
Reaction score
6
Location
Loganville, Georgia
My son and I are removing the 318 and getting ready to put in the 360. We do not have the means to raise the car and drop everything out from the bottom. My questions is, can we remove the engine and transmission at the same time or will we need to seperate them? The 904 currently attached to the 318 will be going on the 360. The 904 is built and ready to go. We will be putting on a new flex plate and putting in a 4000 stall convertor. Any help is appreciated. I am sure there are other post on this subject, but I was unable to find them.
 
Take trans and converter loose from the engine and pull just it.

Before you put the engine back in, make sure you mark the flexplate and converter so you don't have to go through "guess where the offset bolt is..." Find the alignment before install by laying the plate on converter, mark the FP/Converter with a pen/paint spray or dab.

It's easier to get to the trans bolts if you let the rear crossmember loose and drop trans tail down. Get at the bolts from the bottom with a long extension and swivel. Take the distributor out or the cap off or it may pinch/break against firewall.
 
You'll find varying opinions. I'm of the belief that the easiest time to separate the engine and transmission is while in the car. Others will disagree. It's all personal preference. The answer is yes you can raise them both out the top. You'll have to jack the front end up a ways to keep the transmission from getting wedged between the top of the transmission tunnel and the ground. While it's out grab a rubber hammer and flatten the pinch weld on the tunnel. It'll make all future installations go a little easier.
 
took mine out as a whole by myself with an engine hoist, pulled off the hood, disconnected everything, pulled radiator, distrib, sealed off rear of tranny so didn't leak fluid everywhere, pulled out easier than I thought it would - had a good tilt to motor/trans when it came out
 
I appreciate all the input. We will be pulling everything together. I will post next Thursday how everything turned out.
 
Pulling out together is the way I went. Puting the 2 together once in the car seems like it would be harder then to install them as a pair.
Just my opinion....

Good luck with the install
 

Attachments

  • IMAG0115.jpg
    124.5 KB · Views: 437
Together or separate is up to you. I did it together. The trick to making it easier is to jack the back of the car as high as you can get it (safely). you wont have to angle the engine and trans as much to get it in.
 
I do it together also. I got mine out without pulling the hood. The carb plate is the way to go.

BTW SirDan, I LOVE the paint scheme/wheels/stripe on your car.
 
Here's a thought.........seperate engine from tranny, leave tranny in car, drop in 360. As stated, mark flex plate/converter bolts for reassembly. You stated that the 904 is going behind the 360 so why pull it out, just to put it back in.

A lifting plate on the intake manifold works great.

Good luck!
 
done it both ways many times,if the trans is good leave it in there.it's no big deal to unbolt the engine from the trans.do it myself with no help all the time.out of mopar,ford or chevy the mopar is by far the easiest to pull.leave the headers where they lay after you unbolt them....and x2 on crackedbacks lining up the converter,saves the turning the engine from under the car and looking for the lineup crap.....thats my own......
 
replace the front seal on the trans before putting it back together, seeing how it will be right there also invest in a engine leveler that way you can tilt the motor back and forth without having to do all the other stuff like beat the pinch welded area with a hammer...lol thats just silly. i also use alittle spray paint when i seperate the torque converter from the flex plate on one bolt just look for the color spots to line up. as far as new motor mounts i'd change them there cheap to buy and like the front seal on the trans a pain in the butt too change when they go out.
 
I always pull mine seperate,then chain the trans up from the torsion bars if i need to move the car,if not I just support it with a jack,but make sure to use a tilter if you do,makes putting it back in much easier if you pull them seperate.I got mine from Harbor Frieght cheap,works great.
 
I always pull as a pair because I'm a big guy & require a lot of room. I'm swapping my engine & trans into my car as a unit with everything hooked up.
 

Attachments

  • Picture 1244.jpg
    97.7 KB · Views: 332
How young and agile are you. I did them all ways and both have there issues. But I think age and amount of tools you have are the deciding factor, Now I do them like this only because its easier for me. Lack of knowledge and equipment? Pull it as one. out the top. Get some duct tape and pieces of carpet so not to bang up the car
 

Attachments

  • 11117[1].jpg
    107.3 KB · Views: 344
Pulling the trans risks damaging color lines, dipstick tube and more so if it aint going to be rebuilt I aint going to pull it.
I put the shifter in neutral then I pull the trans crossmember and lower the tail end of it enough to access the upper bell bolts with long extensoins. Then I poke a couple of bolts back in that cross member for their support. A nylon ratchet strap laced around the torsion bars cradles the front of the trans and allows a small amount of movement for aligning if needed.
Only trans fluid loss is cooler lines from radiater.
 
We ended up pulling the engine by itself. Went much easier than we expected. Used the nylon straps to support the transmission. That worked great. Thanks for all the suggestions. They really helped.
 
If the snout on the front of the torque converter matches the 360 crank bore and flex plate bolt pattern matches, you're good to go.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top