2.66 low gear vs close ratio

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I have been following this thread as well. I'm in the planning stages of building my 82 D150 2Wd shortbed into a street bruiser. It's currently a /6 833 OD. I Have been looking at the passion 18 spline drop in kit because I'm going to be building a 400 based stroker so need something to support the power but would really like to keep OD on this build.

But now AJ has got me thinking a regular 833 and gear vendor might be my ticket.

EDIT See below
You won't like it(the o/d-GV combo). Go with a regular 4spd, an auto, or since it's a pick-up, an A518.
And heres why; To build a bruiser implies a big cam cuz that's what most guys think. To be effective you will need big meats. Big meats means little or no tire spin. Engine married to road means engine married to trans ratios. Big cam 400 pulling from 54% to 60% of redline,means 400 stuck in basement, while SBM motors by.
OK but you said with GV Well that's just dynomite big fun, if you use it as a splitter.I forsee at least three problems.
#1) the GV does not shift particularly fast when going through their computer. I discovered that if you slam battery volts straight into it through a push-on-push-off switch then it shifts like lightning.
#2)You cannot backshift through the GV, it tears it up. You can decouple the engine from the tranny and outshift the GV, and then re-couple. That's ok. But you can't do any roadwork that way.
#3) If you accidentally leave the GV engaged and start backing up, the GV is history, and they ain't cheap to rebuild. That's what their computer is designed to prevent.

Edit; Oh boy, I screwed up. I see you wrote REGULAR 4spd. And I read overdrive. So the above story is for those that might have been thinking about the A833 O/D and a GV.

Now, here's something to think about;
You have 400plus cubes.That could make a lot of torque down low. If you exploit that,you only need 3 gears as a brawler.You need one to get moving, and one to cruise with, and one to brawl with. Your brawling speeds will normally be from mid 35mph to 65mph cuz nobody want's a speeding ticket, cuz that usually leads to loss of driving privileges.Plus they say;speed kills.
So all you need, is to be ready at 35mph and to be done at 65. That's exactly one gear if you engineer it right. If you put a shift in there, it can cost you .2 of a second.If you blow a shift, it's overe.If you blow through the tires(all to easy with a 400plus), that pesky SBM is blowing by you, again.
So zero in on your intended usage, and engineer the gearing involved. And then build a powerband into that 400 that will cover the bases. Then select whatever tranny hits the most bases.

I'll throw something at you.See if it sticks.
-Let's explore the A833 o/d box,, 3.09-1.67-1.00-.73od,since I am confident about the three gear requirement. Since this box has the o/d let's go with 4.30 for a rear, which could then cruise around 2300.
Now you are probably gonna run some big meats, so let's go with 30inchers(which have about a 94 inch roll-out) .The 3.09 low will combine with that set-up pretty good. But I'm more interested in what's going on from 35 to 65.
35 to 65 is usually 2nd gear, so that would be a 1.67 ratio.And the math says 35mph is 2824rpm. Math also says 65 is 5244. so with 4.30s your powerband will need to be from 2824 to 5244.That would be 2420 rpm. That is sooo doable. But you say theres no power in that zone, how can you win.
Ok then, lets work it backwards. Say you think you need 6200 to make a good show.
The formula is (rpm x TC)/ (1056 x R1 xR2) = MPH
We know the rollout(TC) is 94, and the tranny-gearR2 is 1.67, and the mph is 65, and the RPM we want it to be; 6200.
Lets plug it in; (6200 x 94)/(1056 x R1 x 1.67) = 65
Doing the math and rearranging we get;R1 = 5.08, so you will need 5.13s to make that target. Cruising will be 2734. And the starter gear will be 3.09 x 5.13 =15.85, which even with 30s will be rediculous; taking off like 5.38s, with a 2.66 box and with 27inch tires. But we are not quite done yet. RPM at 35 mph in second will be 3368. With a 400, screaming along at 3368, you will fool no one. And the powerband from 3368 to 6200 is 2832 wide. That's a bit of a stretch with a cam that wants to hit 6200 with full power.So this tranny only hits 2 bases and even one of those is not very good and 5.13s on the street will beat the oil to death; never mind the driveshaft whipping about under your azz.
But is it really the tranny? Or is it that cam that doesn't make power until 5800ish.
Remember the 4.30s? They hit all the bases with a reduced powerband.
Decisions, decisions.
But we did learn one valuable thing. The 6200 demands a gear ratio of 8.48; which being 1.67 x 5.08 = 8.48. Well that is priceless. So all we need to do is come up with a second/rear combo to make 8.48 and we are set!
Or are we.
Remember the powerband requirement of 2832 for this redline? Suppose we make a compromise and run up the middle and hit 65 at (6200 + 5244)/2 =5722. This will then require a similar trick with the powerband requirement; (2420 +2832)/2 =2626.
So what gear-combo do we need to hit 5722 at 65mph? Going back to the formula, the math says we need 7.836; and we are in business again. So throwing that O/D box into the weeds, what tranny/rear combo can get us a 7.836 2nd combo and a reasonable starter combo.Glad you asked!

-Lets try the regular box.Ratios are 2.66/3.09-1.92-1.40-1.00.. To get the 7.836 second requires 7.836/1.92nd = about 4.10s; bang-on good and 4.10 x 2.66 = a 10.91 starter gear. Well that's not too snappy with 30inchers, so lets go with a 3.09low. That gets us in the ballpark;3.09 x 4.10 = 12.67 Perfect! So we now have 3 bases covered; the rpm at 65, the powerband of 2626, and the starter gear. Lets go for 4th base; the cruise rpm. The math says 2994 at 65mph. OUCH!But hang the GV on there and cruise becomes 2335 at 65.
And one more thing. A bonus.This 3.09/direct 4th box lends itself to gear-splitting. You can go 1st-1od-2nd-2od. The ratios are 3.09-(2.41)-1.92-(1.50). with the above 4.10s you hit all the bases. Now the splitter can keep you on the pipe with rpm drops of about half of what it would be without the splitting. I figure that feature is worth one or two cam sizes. So now, instead of that 284* cam, you might show just as well with a 276* cam. And you know what that means; more brawling with less gas money.And as an afterthought, 2nd-od will get you down the 1/8 to the tune of 94mph at 6500;with just one stick-shift...... Just one Pull

Ok one more. The Passon box ; 2.66-1.59-1.00-.80 We already have the one requirement of 7.836 in 2nd, so; 7.836/1.59 = 4.92 rounded to 4.86s. Well 4.86 x 2.66 = a 12.93 starter, and the od gets us 2839 at 65. Thats 3 bases again.And the powerband was previously determined to be 2626. That's all 4 bases! Hooray!!
Now all you have to do is build a 400 stroker with a 2626 powerband, nosing over at 5722. Easy-peasy. If you don't thoroughly trounce all comers, start the truck on a diet until you do.
And now for the icing; If you put the GV behind the Passon box, the cruise rpm drops to 2214.
This box is a natural for the GV. The ratios would be 2.66-(2.07)-1.59-(1.24)-1.00-(.78 )/.80-.62 and the splits are .78-.77-.78-.81-.80-.78 That makes a powerband requirement of about 1200rpm (4500 to 5722) or maybe 1350ish on the bigger cam.
Just remember you cannot backshift under power.

'Course I made a lot of assumptions in this story, but the theory is sound.
Your result with different inputs, WILL vary. The formula works for all inputs.

And now a word about the 3.09Low/direct 4th/GV combo. From post #28;
You will have to pry this combo out of my cold dead fingers!
 
Ok one more. The Passon box

Spoke to Jamie Passon today (1/5/16), he said there were no gears available at the moment but will be getting them around April.

Kinda decided I need one of these. It will make life good.

So AJ, were you a court stenographer in a past life? Man, you like to type... in all sincerity though, thanks for taking the time to write this all out. I know that sometimes when I get into it an type up a long reply it can feel like it went into oblivion so please know that the effort is appreciated.
 
I'm a one finger typer.
But These threads are not just for today.This site is continually growing. I have to get this stuff outta my head while I still can. If just one person picks up a calculator and starts producing data, my effort will have been worth it.Today, tomorrow, or 5 years from now.I need the headspace for other things.
My head is like my garage. There is so much stuff in there, I forget where I put it and sometimes can't find it for days.Ima hoping if I move some stuff out, I'll be able to find lost things again.
I'm just here to help. And learn stuff too.
Thx for the boost
 
I'm a one finger typer.
But These threads are not just for today.This site is continually growing. I have to get this stuff outta my head while I still can. If just one person picks up a calculator and starts producing data, my effort will have been worth it.Today, tomorrow, or 5 years from now.I need the headspace for other things.
My head is like my garage. There is so much stuff in there, I forget where I put it and sometimes can't find it for days.Ima hoping if I move some stuff out, I'll be able to find lost things again.
I'm just here to help. And learn stuff too.
Thx for the boost
i use voice command on my cell phone to post. If you did that #-o oh boy !!
Love ya AJ-- keep on keepin on.....
 
AJ, I really do appreciate your knowledge on this subject. You brought up a ton of points I would have never thought of and explained the math in a way I can follow it. Thanks! Plenty of torque over a broad range shouldn't be a problem since I plan to stroke the 400. That .309 1st gear regular 833 and a GV looks like the way to go! Now I have another thing to start saving my money for. Going with an automatic in this truck is not an option since the dart is an auto. I wanted a 4 speed with this build.
 
So all you need, is to be ready at 35mph and to be done at 65. That's exactly one gear if you engineer it right. If you put a shift in there, it can cost you .2 of a second.
This idea is a possible fault with your analysis; I can show you lots of turns around here where 15-30 mph is the min speed for someone really driving hard and a 3.09 is just a bad idea; there will be a dead zone where 1st is too high and 2nd is too low, or you have to extend the torque band down more (which is not a bad idea). Then there are high speed corners I'd take at well over 70 mph. (Even in my RAM CTD! If I did not chicken out... LOL) I am going to guess that in southern Manitoba, where your roam around, the roads are quite a bit different than here in the Appalachians.

And you may be forgetting that with torque steering at the rear, with the gas, some minor tire slippage is intended and necessary to get the rear tires to an increased slip angle to aid in oversteer with the throttle. On dirt and gravel, actual tire spin in a necessity to do this. SO the assumption of no slippage is not always true.

3 speeds are not used for road racing for a good reason. I would not even dream of trying one around here for some true horsing around on the back roads. If this is for tall tires, change the rear gear.
 
nm9
Perhaps I misunderstood Walker's statement as to his usage being a "street bruiser".
In my world this does not include turns.Here's my interpretation of "street bruiser"; I'm, driving along, minding my own business, doing 32 in a 35 Zone. (32 cuz my car is rather conspicuous and I refuse to openly invite a speeding ticket). And some kid in a Mustang or whatever,pulls alongside and starts razzing me. Well since I live here I know where the cops are, and so I analyze the situation.Then I decide if it's safe.Then I decide if it's worth it to me, to embarrass this poor fellow.If I give myself the green-lite, then it's go time, for one,two,three seconds and on the binders to 32mph, as the poor schmuck blows by me doing 70, right to where the cops are hiding.(well they're not actually around that much;who knows what they are doing). Perhaps later on we meet again, but now he's Mr. Quiet.Don't mess with the conspicuous red no-name S,and his GearVender.
To me that is street bruising. Cuz we're on the street, and I just bruised his ego. And it's a one-gear blast.
But if you care to backwoods roadrace an 82 swb D100, Ima thinking that would take some big money.
And I did qualify the choices. " 'Course I made a lot of assumptions in this story, but the theory is sound.Your result with different inputs, WILL vary. The formula works for all inputs".
And all the listed trannys are 4 gear, or 3+1.
And the very first words were, "You won't like it(the o/d-GV combo). Go with a regular 4spd".
All of post#51 was directed at Walker, and his combo.
And the shift in question, would have to be a 2-3
I really thought I had my but covered:(
 
nm9
Perhaps I misunderstood Walker's statement as to his usage being a "street bruiser".
In my world this does not include turns.Here's my interpretation of "street bruiser"; I'm, driving along, minding my own business, doing 32 in a 35 Zone. (32 cuz my car is rather conspicuous and I refuse to openly invite a speeding ticket). And some kid in a Mustang or whatever,pulls alongside and starts razzing me. Well since I live here I know where the cops are, and so I analyze the situation.Then I decide if it's safe.Then I decide if it's worth it to me, to embarrass this poor fellow.If I give myself the green-lite, then it's go time, for one,two,three seconds and on the binders to 32mph, as the poor schmuck blows by me doing 70, right to where the cops are hiding.(well they're not actually around that much;who knows what they are doing). Perhaps later on we meet again, but now he's Mr. Quiet.Don't mess with the conspicuous red no-name S,and his GearVender.
To me that is street bruising. Cuz we're on the street, and I just bruised his ego. And it's a one-gear blast.
But if you care to backwoods roadrace an 82 swb D100, Ima thinking that would take some big money.
And I did qualify the choices. " 'Course I made a lot of assumptions in this story, but the theory is sound.Your result with different inputs, WILL vary. The formula works for all inputs".
And all the listed trannys are 4 gear, or 3+1.
And the very first words were, "You won't like it(the o/d-GV combo). Go with a regular 4spd".
All of post#51 was directed at Walker, and his combo.
And the shift in question, would have to be a 2-3
I really thought I had my but covered:(
Ahah..... My brain was still with vntd and his terrain around north central NC. There seem to be several different apps here... or I am just no keeping up! LOL. For a straight road, semi-drag race, yeah, that is not what I was thinking about. Carry on....

As for the story about the other guy getting caught by the cops.....I did that once; he went one way at the fork and I went the other. It was not his lucky night. He asked me if I knew the cop was there and if I had set him up, but I really hadn't....
 
As to figuring the tranny ratios; Drive the car in 2nd gear up to exactly 40mph. Note the exact rpm. Shift into third and drive it back to 40 mph, and now note the new rpm.Stop the car. Take the smaller rpm and divide it by the larger. This will give you the 2-3 %split. Compare to the posts. .
Example: 40mph 2nd = 3063 rpm, and 40 in 3rd = 2233 Then 2233/3063 = 72.9%split. This would be a 2.66 box. The 2.47 box would be 75.7%. the od box would be 59.9%. The rpms will be different depending on the rear gears and which trans is involved. I just threw these rpms out there as an example. The % splits is what tells the story.
The AAR was a short lived series, maybe a couple of years, IDK
There are threads on how to figure out your rear gear.
Thx for dropping in.


That's a great tip AJ! Ok...once I get my speedo cable and tach connected, I'll be doing that. LOL Actually, I'm going to save a link to your post so that I can remember the procedure once I get the previous items squared away.

As for the rear end gear, rambling... I guess that's because those of us wondering about our first gear needs to match it to right rear end gear. The 3.21 in my 8.25 inch rear end seems to drive well. I think first could have some more umph, but maybe I just need to learn to drive it.

I do have a 8.75 inch rear end sitting in the wings waiting to get rebuilt. It currently has a 2.74 gear that I keep wondering how it would drive/accelerate. Would be great on the highway, but not sure if I'll need to be slipping first gear to get it going. Or, should I go with 3.23's for best of both worlds (street/highway).

Again, just rambling... The real question you answered. Thanks!!
 
Short stroke street SBMs, in A-bodies,like a starter gear around 10 or 11 to one. so lets average that to 10.5; then 10.5/ 2.66low gear = 3.95, rounded to 3.91 rear cogs. What?! you ask. Yeah I know that's out there. I said like, not have to have. 3.91s will be a dump the clutch, and drive experience;something your 16 year old daughter can drive away. It will launch hard. Now 10.5/3.09 =a rear cog of 3.40. Hence why I use 3.55s with my 3.09low box. The short stroke SBMs will suffer your 8.59 ratio; with a "bit" of slipping to get going, and once up to about 2000rpm, they're ok. So the target street starter gear, might be in the range of 8.59 to 10.5; and thus a middle of the road ratio would be 9.55. And that divided by 2.66 = 3.59s-rounded to 3.55s.That is why 3.55 gears are so popular.

Oh yeah the 360s, for the same application,can use 340/360=.95 as much ratio; so .95 x 3.59 = 3.41 rounded to either3.23/3.55s. And teeners; 340/318 = 1.07 as much ratio; so1.07 x 3.59 =3.84 rounded to 3.73/3.91s.
And the reason for the starter gear difference? You guessed it;Inherent torque.This generalization sorta works for all street sbms, cuz thats all I know.I say sorta cuz it spits out; 340/273 x 3.59 = 4.47, rounded to 4.30s. Well that might be a lil excessive, unless our lil orphan brother was running a cam on the big-boy end of street.
Anyhow,that's my measuring stick, and makes for a happy driving experience, with moderate street cams.
The smaller your cam the smaller your rear gear can be. And vice-versa. And since you have an adjustable stall(clutch), you can run a too-small cog. It just takes a bit of concentration at the start-line.Or a bit of flywheel. Now, the too-small cog will,at any given moment, be putting down less torque to the pavement, so you can expect a slower rate of acceleration, but this is really only apparent at WOT, cuz the rest of the time you will be adjusting the torque output with the gas pedal.But there is a good chance that hi-way gears behind a cammed teener will always feel like you are in the next higher gear.And that's cuz you sorta are.The engine doesn't know anything about gears. It only knows about torque multiplication. Whether the rear is 2.66 and the tranny is 3.09, or the rear is 3.09 and the tranny is 2.66, it cares not a wit; it sees only 2.66 x 3.09 = 8.22 torque multiplication. So then, if you have the 2.66 low box with .72 splits, then a change in rear cogs of that very same .72 split, will feel exactly like you are in one gear different. Example;2.76/.72 = 3.83. If you swapped out your 3.83 gear for 2.76s, you will always feel the one-gear handicap.
Ok but an increase of engine torque of that same split, would put you back on an even keel. An across-the board increase in engine torque of 1/.72 =about plus 39%, would even the driving experience. So then 1.39 x your engines torque x the small cog multiplication would equal 1.00 x your engines torque with the big cogs. Unfortunately plus39% is a huge change in across-the-board torque;akin to supercharging, or engine swapping. Big-engine engine swapping.

Long story short; If you want your car to perform sporty, you will need sporty torque multiplication. Whether it's in the cogs or in the tranny, the engine cares not. An extra gear in the tranny trumps swapping chunks for a roadtrip.



There is a fellow selling a 3.09low box right here on FABO, right now........
 
This thread has been a great read, and will continue to be! Kudos AJ/FormS...

Indeed! AJ/FormS even answered a few questions and I had and gave me a tip on how to figure out the gear ratio by calculating the "split" ratio. Nice!
 
I like M/Ts for street cuz, I can mix and match ratios that cover more bases than an auto and a TC
If your A/T has a too-tight TC in it, for your combo it can be a royal PITA. Sometimes you can make it work with a too-big chunk. But then you may be cruising at an unacceptably high rpm.If it's too loose, well you can go back one or two rear ratios, But I don't care for the feel of a too-loose TC, mated to a too-high rear gear. And the fuel mileage won't be there. So you have to be pretty darn close with matching the rear to the TC to the engine combo/tune and to the gear splits.

With an M/T,I feel I have more options. As long as the engines powerband is reasonably close to the gear splits, It's easy to match a chunk to it;even a too-small ratio, cuz I have the variable "STALL" clutch. I give up the torque multiplication of the TC, but why would I need it? I have the extra tranny gear, and the clutch. Recall that I am talking street driving.
And changing chunks in 8.75s is waaay faster, waaay easier, and very likely, cheaper, than swapping TCs. At one time I had eight different chunks all lined up and ready to go;not including spares.
But then I got the GV, and I have not swapped chunks since about 2005 or so.

Here's another tidbit; out-accelerating someone else just means putting down more average Hp/pound, over the entire run.
Consider a 2-stroke snowmobile. When you whack the throttle open on one of those babies, the rpm more or less ramps up the rpm of peak hp, and stays there, until the engines runs out of power to go any faster.It puts down an average hp number that is very nearly equal to it's peak output.
For this to apply to your car, and an M/T, You would need a very close ratio spread. Then you could win against bigger engines with higher specific power numbers but are unable to put as much average power down. OR, you could take some power out of your engine and be no slower than when you did not have the close ratio spread.
Since I don't have a scanner, you are gonna have to imagine these scenarios;
Suppose you build an engine with a peak power output of 400hp@5800 and the power curve was such that from 4700 to 6700 was an average of 370hp/100rpm.Well if you put this engine in front of a tranny with .71 splits, out shifting at 6700 drops it in at 6700x .71 = 4750.Thats a powerband of1950(not bad).But lets say you had a tranny with .78splits. With this tranny, maybe you could outshift at 6400, and the Rs drop to about 6400 x .78 = 4992; a powerband of just 1408 (much better).So now that puts your shifts up closer to the power peak;both before and after and now your average hp output might be 388hp/100rpm. That makes about plus 5% more average hp. That would be akin to: increasing the size of your 360 plus 5% = to378 cid, or increasing the cam one size.
So in this exercise the close ratio 360, might put down the same average hp as, as a 378 with a wide ratio. Or you could downsize the cam one time, to run the close ratio, and it would put down a similar average hp, as it did with the wide ratio. Or you could run a smaller engine;360/1.05 =343cid
Now you can use this info in other ways.
Consider the 3+1 box with its 54% and 60% splits. Well,um,no; don't bother.
All numbers as to rpm and hp,are fictitious, and were only chosen to help you visualize the concept.
 
As for the rear end gear, rambling... I guess that's because those of us wondering about our first gear needs to match it to right rear end gear. The 3.21 in my 8.25 inch rear end seems to drive well. I think first could have some more umph, but maybe I just need to learn to drive it.

I do have a 8.75 inch rear end sitting in the wings waiting to get rebuilt. It currently has a 2.74 gear that I keep wondering how it would drive/accelerate. Would be great on the highway, but not sure if I'll need to be slipping first gear to get it going. Or, should I go with 3.23's for best of both worlds (street/highway).



Again, just rambling... The real question you answered. Thanks!!

If you prove your first gear is a 2.66. Then 2.66 x 3.21 =8.54. This is on the low end of acceptable for a typical streeter with typical tire sizes.Hence, as you say, it could use a little more "umph".
Sbms like starter gears closer to 10:1 or even 11:1. With stock 360s able to pull the lower ratios, and teeners liking a bit more. A hi-torque 360 does pretty good with 3.55s. This would be 3.55 x 2.66 =9.44
But keep in mind that the 3.55s are trading away comfortable hiway cruising(3.21s), for off-the-line umph.
And finally, you kindof answered your own question, when you said "The 3.21 in my 8.25 inch rear end seems to drive well." If that's true, it would be hard to justify a change. Just keep on keeping on, until the day comes when you finally,for sure,want more umph!

As to the 2.74s.. well, 2.74 x 2.66 =7.29.. and 7.29/8.54(your current ratio) =.853. what this feels like is that your engine just lost 1 -.853 =14.6% of it's size. This is just a little more than 1 cylinder(12.5%). So if you really want to know what it might feel like, go out and pull a wire off, and drive it around for 15 minutes.This is Not recommended with expensive aftermarket ignitions,but works fine with factory ECUs.

As to the 8.75 and 3.23s. Well there is not much point in going here cuz your current 8.25 and 3.21s are almost exactly the same.Unless you need the reliability factor of the larger 8.75. If your current 8.25 has a good working SG in it, it can take a pretty good licking.



 
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