2 questions re '64 Dart

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rdb

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Going to see a '64 Dart convert for sale. Have a bunch of pix.. had questions on the two attached

Trunk pix -- has primer. They came from factory with trunk painted whatever the exterior color was? I'd be having this car repainted.

Engine pix -- has some kind of aftermarket fan in front... what's that about?

From pix, body looks good, but where should you most check for rust?

Thanks,
RB
 

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rear quarters, inner fenders. door jams. floor boards, frames especially where the torsion bars go in. Rear frame, and rear leaf spring mounting pads on the frame.
 
Yes, trunk should be body color.

The auxillary fan is most likely a sign the radiator is partially plugged and not cooling good enough. A radiator rebuild or new radiator might be in the cards.

I see a dual master cylinder. Has it had the brakes upgraded?
 
Yes, trunk should be body color.

The auxillary fan is most likely a sign the radiator is partially plugged and not cooling good enough. A radiator rebuild or new radiator might be in the cards.

I see a dual master cylinder. Has it had the brakes upgraded?

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With dual master cyl, does that require brakes be upgraded, or was that just something generally done w/ this change? As far as I know it's stock brakes but will ask.


I have heard different things about this

a) stock brakes just don't keep up with the modern world driving --upgrade @ all costs. There do seem to be some options.

b) stock brakes are still ok as long as they are watched and fully tweaked/maintained.

Where do you come down on this?
 
It looks well taken care of. That someone upgraded to a dual brake system is a big mark. If the trunk wheel well is original and not rusted thru in a CT convertible, that suggests the car was always garaged. Look at the passenger floor from underneath. Even garaged, a heater core leak wetting the carpet usually causes a rust thrus. Otherwise, the sheet metal behind the rear wheels usually rusts thru first.

I am sure you have read mixed reviews on drum brakes here. Most claim they don't even work when to factory spec, which is hard to believe. If the brakes can skid all 4 tires evenly, that is the best any brakes could do in normal, sane driving. Of course, you get max braking just before you skid, and if you skid start pumping the brakes. Where disk brakes shine is in faster cooling, which is important in high speed braking (>70 mph) or constant braking (road racing or riding the brakes downhill like FL drivers in NC). My guess is that most people complaining are comparing degraded drum brakes with new disk brakes. A front disk upgrade is good, but hardly an emergency item. Of course, 10" drums are preferred to 9" drums, and most slants got 9" drums.

After rust, next concern is suspension and steering. Look at the rubber bushings at all pivot points of the control arms. Some surface cracks is acceptable, but if the rubber is failing, it will need rebuild. If the ball joint and tie rod end boots are good, the joints should be good also. Turn the steering back and forth and look for play. Look for flexible underhood wiring insulation and that the plastic bulkhead terminals haven't melted.
 
Stick your hand down in the bottom of the trunk drop off and feel how big the wad of bondo is.
 
My daily driver is a 64 Slant Dart with stock 9 inch drum brakes. They handle todays traffic perfectly. My 72 Swinger with the 10 inch drums work even better!
 
Also check the cowl area for rust, the drains can get plugged and then the moisture will rust out the cowl rusts, it's very difficult to repair.
 
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With dual master cyl, does that require brakes be upgraded, or was that just something generally done w/ this change? As far as I know it's stock brakes but will ask.


I have heard different things about this

a) stock brakes just don't keep up with the modern world driving --upgrade @ all costs. There do seem to be some options.

b) stock brakes are still ok as long as they are watched and fully tweaked/maintained.

Where do you come down on this?
i'm a b.
I drove a 64 Valiant daily, all four seasons, for about six years. Never had a problem stopping when and where i wanted to.
 
One more question : They say it has a new drive shaft. What can go wrong with a drive shaft (unless there was road damage) and does that suggest any other problems?
 
64 (thru 65) cars had a unique front U-joint called "ball & trunion" or "Detroit". Search for more info. Might be why they changed it. The parts are hard to find, but hardly impossible if you have time. The P.O. might have put in a custom driveshaft w/ more standard parts (search for photos).
 
If it's still the O.E. ball and trunion type shaft, the front joint will have a rubber boot on it.
 
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