225,slant six radiator

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I would say the best would be a good original radiator.
67.000 miles and get's driven on these hot Arkansas day on the hwy.
Is there anything wrong with your ?
 
Depends on if it has AC there are several companies and box stores that still sell them I dont see any ac stuff except it looks like a bracket for one one the driverside front of engine. Probably 200 or so for a oem style replacement. You can probably get that one repaired at radiator shop or find one for sale here for much cheaper. Hope that helps
 
I believe that you are limited to 19 inches on a 64. 65 and later had a 22 inch radiator support. The larger opening allows use of radiators designed for 70's era A and F bodies. So you can either keep your original radiator, find one spec'd for a 64, or enlarge the opening to the more common 22 inch core opening.

I personally would more worried about the single circuit brake master cylinder than I would be about overheating. It is much harder (+expensive) to repair mangled sheet metal following a brake failure than it is to repair an overheated engine.

And you should take the heater control valve off your heater core hose. You car doesn't use it and it is a potential leak. Looks like someone took a complete engine out of a volare.
 
i have 1 here does not leak in a 65 barracuda with a slant 6 pm me I"LL get back to you on sunday or monday send me your phone # i"ll call you 150.00 plus ride its yours oem 64/65 automatic never braized no leaks
 
Depends on how original you want to stay. Any replacement radiator will be a
"square top" radiator. I say rebuild the original "round top" radiator.
 
What transmission do you have? If the answer is automatic you might have an issue with your torque convertor fitting into the crankshaft loosely. Sorry, but an engine picture makes me want to pick out all the little things that you might not know about a slant. Like disconnected pcv's and electric heated choke components.
 
Wow this is a lot of info, thank you-- this is my first older car. My stepdad is helping me and he knows these motors well. The previous owner painted the front of the radiator and I doubt that helps it work better. I'm takin my time to go through it and learning a lot, I really appreciate any help. That photo is the day I bought the car and how I found it. I've done a tune up and oil change Fresh gas etc . I replaced the brake lines but they are still a little sketchy.
 
Johnny Dart said:
Depends on how original you want to stay. Any replacement radiator will be a
"square top" radiator. I say rebuild the original "round top" radiator.
Click to expand...

X2... this is the move to make... :thumleft:
 
Weigh the different radiator options: repair it; recore it; original used forty year old replacement, and new aftermarket unit before doing anything.

If the current radiator is showing white stuff around the fins, that is a sign that the brass is getting real thin making repair a crap shoot as to how long before the next weak spot lets go, recoreing can be stupid expensive, used is a crap shoot, and new aftermarket is, well… new, and surprisingly affordable.

I replaced my original white encrusted radiator at the advice of my cooling system repair guy of several decades with an aftermarket unit from “Radiators dot com”. The all brass unit came coast to coast in five days at under 170 bucks about three years ago, bolted right in, required only lower hose change to accommodate slightly different lower outlet angle from original.
 
You never stated if anything was even wrong with it. Is it leaking? Are you overheating?
 
It is over heating- I'm gonna look at the water pump now that I know it's not thermostat. Who ever put this motor in did a fast and sloppy job. I may need go back through everything.
 
If they did a really sloppy job are you sure the fan is facing the right direction? I saw an electric fan get replaced at a body shop that spun backwards and caused fun overheat/ac problems.

There is a plug on the passenger side of the engine to the rear of the oil filter. That is your block coolant drain. If that plug will come out remove it (its threaded) and see what kind of crud comes out. With an unknown engine with unknown previous owners there is no telling what is floating around in there. There could be 5 bottles of stop leak plugging up your block. With the plug out there should about 3/4" of free space before you hit the bottom of the water jacket. It is not uncommon for there to be a layer of sludge built up there. If you find it is full of sludge the easiest fix would be to remove all the freeze plugs and flush everything out with a garden hose. The freeze plugs are on the driver side behind the exhaust manifold, but if you are careful you can remove(and install) a few of them without pulling the manifold.
 
Try a good flushing first. Drain all the coolant, including the block plug mentioned. You may have to push a wire in the plug hole to break up rust get it to flow. Fill with tap water and add Prestone Super Flush. Follow the directions of driving ___ minutes and drain. That may clean the block well. Before that, I remove the top hose and put a cone of metal screen inside the hose to catch crud that would plug the radiator. Then take the radiator out and back-flush with a garden hose in the bottom, with it upside down. On a clean driveway, you can see the rust turds come out that were clogging the tube inlets at the top. Shake it around and you will hear loose stuff in the top tank, so try to shake them out.

Re the best radiator, I haven't had good luck with the original round-tops. They always seem to split a seam, both in my 69 Dart and 65 Newport. I was told that is common by radiator guys. You can put a 22" radiator in if you drill holes in the bracket or firewall. My 64 has an unknown one installed, probably even non-Mopar. I wouldn't worry about enlarging the frame opening, since I expect plenty of air still flows in.
 
Update: it was the radiator! Removed water pump, then I flushed the block. They were ok so I took the radiator to a real old school radiator shop close by- 85 bucks later and the old radiator is clean and new again. My radiator guy said it was plugged full of gunk and he also soldered a couple of small leaks. Now I just have to put all back together. Thanks to all who offered advice and knowledge.
 
Another great end to a good thread full of great info This site has some of the best of the best tec folks around ..
 
mcnoople said:
I believe that you are limited to 19 inches on a 64. 65 and later had a 22 inch radiator support. The larger opening allows use of radiators designed for 70's era A and F bodies. So you can either keep your original radiator, find one spec'd for a 64, or enlarge the opening to the more common 22 inch core opening.

I personally would more worried about the single circuit brake master cylinder than I would be about overheating. It is much harder (+expensive) to repair mangled sheet metal following a brake failure than it is to repair an overheated engine.

And you should take the heater control valve off your heater core hose. You car doesn't use it and it is a potential leak. Looks like someone took a complete engine out of a volare.
Click to expand...

I sent pictures of the interior seat to a nos interior supplier- the guy called me back and said " that's not a dart interior, it's from a Volare."
 
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