273 new to me question

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38 Dodge

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Let me start with I just need a running motor to put in my 62 Valiant Wagon. And I just acquired a 273 motor which has a factory replacement tag from 69. But it has the 64/65 heads.
is there anything special this block / head combo
 
The 69 came with a hydraulic cam and non adjustable rockers. It was also a 8.5:1 compression ratio and wasn't available with a 4 barrel. The 64 and 65 273 heads have a odd intake bolt angle and smaller bolts so the later intakes won't bolt on without modifications.
 
The 69 came with a hydraulic cam and non adjustable rockers. It was also a 8.5:1 compression ratio and wasn't available with a 4 barrel. The 64 and 65 273 heads have a odd intake bolt angle and smaller bolts so the later intakes won't bolt on without modifications.
Thanks but this motor has adjustable rockers, but would / could this be a commando motor how would I be able to tell?
 
Thanks but this motor has adjustable rockers, but would / could this be a commando motor how would I be able to tell?
Pull the heads and look at the postons. 4 valve reliefs is a 2 barrel engine. If it's a 69 with stock pistons it is low compression but if the heads have been changed somebody has been in there messing around. You really don't know what you have.
 
64/65 heads on a 69 block means it's been opened up and YOU have to do the research/investigating. Pics would help.
 
The 65 heads have 57cc chambers where the 69 have something like 63 so the 65 heads with a 64-65 manifold will give you slightly more compression . if you find the domed 2 valve relief pistons in there you can end up with a real sweet motor with all the other commando 273 stuff on top.
 
Could be a replacement short block. Possible to have + .020 compression hight pistons to bring compression back up with open chambered 68-69 heads. Really nice to have with 64-65 heads closed chambered heads. Probably 9+ to 1 compression. Might be close to 0 deck hight. Probably a forged steel crank.
 
If it's a replacement block you could have several different internals depending on if it was just a block replacement, a complete '69 short block or any combination of parts. You didn't mention which transmission is going to be used with it, but, check to see which crankshaft it has. If it's a '67 or earlier crank, it will be forged with a small register for the early converters. If it's a '69 crank, it will be a cast iron version with the big hole. If you're going to use a manual transmission, you might want to check to see if the crank has been machined for a pilot bushing. If not, you need to either machine the early crank or cut a bushing down to make it fit properly. If the later crank isn't finished, you can use a later magnum crank pilot BEARING. You're into some fairly serious mods to get that engine in a '62, so, you might want to detail what you're trying to do and what will be needed to make it happen.
 
Ok went out and looked in thru the spark plug holes and with my boroscope I only see two valve relieves. I will go back out and check the crank as listed above.
planing on using a push button auto behind this motor.
 
Here are some pictures I just took not sure what I’m looking for on the crank and it’s hard to look with it on the engine stand. Also a picture of the tag on the front of the motor.

0BB70BC0-A3C2-4E7A-AF91-ADD0F31597AC.jpeg


01C651FA-C626-4B51-936E-31769024F222.jpeg
 
That tag indicates that it is a replacement short block from the factory.I had two of those in crates I sold on here about 5 years ago. So it seems you possibly have a virgin replacement bottom end that hasn't been messed with by anyone

IMG_9403.JPG


IMG_9421.JPG


IMG_9422.JPG
 
If it's a replacement block you could have several different internals depending on if it was just a block replacement, a complete '69 short block or any combination of parts. You didn't mention which transmission is going to be used with it, but, check to see which crankshaft it has. If it's a '67 or earlier crank, it will be forged with a small register for the early converters. If it's a '69 crank, it will be a cast iron version with the big hole. If you're going to use a manual transmission, you might want to check to see if the crank has been machined for a pilot bushing. If not, you need to either machine the early crank or cut a bushing down to make it fit properly. If the later crank isn't finished, you can use a later magnum crank pilot BEARING. You're into some fairly serious mods to get that engine in a '62, so, you might want to detail what you're trying to do and what will be needed to make it happen.
I wanted to let you know about my swap.
I got this motor, the push button transmission, along with the motor mounts, center link, and exhaust manifold. I know the heater box has to come out and I might have to modify the top of the fire wall for the distributor. I will also be replace the front brakes with disc brakes.
 
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