273 power steering

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R0K3_B3aRd

R0K3_B3aRd

Man with a Master plan.
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I have a guy who is selling a power steering from a slant 6. So i was wondering if It would be able to fit my 273 v8? I have manual steering now.
 
Year models have differences in the gear boxes, box coupling spline diameters play into that too. Majority of differences are in pumps, brackets, and pulleys.
 
If you get the box AND the pitman, thats 1/3 of it. The pump can be transferred to the correct brackets, but the pressure hose may not work. Thats the second 1/3 of it. The shaft coming down from the steering wheel will be too long. Thats the last 1/3 of it. It, however,can be made to work.
 
if you lived here in Portland I would swap my power steering for your manual. In that light of a car its almost too much. besides it gets in the way of headers..:D
 
AJ/FormS said:
If you get the box AND the pitman, thats 1/3 of it. The pump can be transferred to the correct brackets, but the pressure hose may not work. Thats the second 1/3 of it. The shaft coming down from the steering wheel will be too long. Thats the last 1/3 of it. It, however,can be made to work.
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Theres also one from a 273 from a 66 would that fit what would i actually need? Should i even get it honestly i like the manual steering but its hard as hell to turn from a stop..
 
So just how much do you need to turn when you're stopped?

No really, if it takes that much force at the wheel all the parts in the front end are seeing a lot of force too. Power steering gives you the ability to effortlessly wear out your front end and never know you're doing it.

But of you really want power steering you'll need a PS gearbox, PS pump from pre-1970 small block and an early A-body power steering column. Or, in other words pretty much the whole system.

Mopar power steering was known for being ridiculously numb and overboosted by the standards of the day. Even more so by modern standards.
 
C130 Chief said:
So just how much do you need to turn when you're stopped?

No really, if it takes that much force at the wheel all the parts in the front end are seeing a lot of force too. Power steering gives you the ability to effortlessly wear out your front end and never know you're doing it.

But of you really want power steering you'll need a PS gearbox, PS pump from pre-1970 small block and an early A-body power steering column. Or, in other words pretty much the whole system.

Mopar power steering was known for being ridiculously numb and overboosted by the standards of the day. Even more so by modern standards.
Click to expand...
danm dude i never even thought about that. I will definitely take that into consideration.
 
jasd if your engine is set up with the iron waterpump, the 66 -273 stuff should fit.The steering gear-box will fit. If your chassis is 1972 or older, your pitman arm should fit the steering gear box. That leaves the column.As previously stated the shafts are different lengths between manual and power. Im not familiar with 1st gen cars but on the 2nd gens, going from manual to power is easy. The steering shaft is located in a sleeve inside the column.It is held in place by nylon rivets.Either 2 or 4;cant remember, and not important. Anyway,on mine,(floor shift model) I just gave the shaft a bop on the concrete floor to shear the pins, and voila, its adjustable.If you do this, be careful not to drop the shaft out onto the floor. Idont know if this procedure is possible in the car, but I think it would be. Those pins are very small and require very little force to shear.
And I agree about the overboost situation with Chrysler P/S systems. But that is easily changed.
And I agree that manual steering can be a chore at slow speeds.
The biggest contributors to wear are lack of lube, dirt, and water.
 
C130 Chief said:
So just how much do you need to turn when you're stopped?

No really, if it takes that much force at the wheel all the parts in the front end are seeing a lot of force too. Power steering gives you the ability to effortlessly wear out your front end and never know you're doing it..
Click to expand...

I'm not trying to start argument in this thread. I only caution against buying into the many unproven theories we find on the internet.
Resistance from scrubbing rubber tires on asphalt is what it is. Power steering requires less effort from the driver so maybe those arms will last longer. I wont agree that there is a significant difference in wear rate of the mechanical parts with and with out power steering.
 
Turning the wheels with the car static requires a LOT more force than turning them while rolling. Whether that force is applied by your arms or a hydraulic assist. My point was cranking the wheels while static IS hard on the steering components. It's a bad practice and should be avoided, much like resting your foot on the clutch or brake pedal.

This is not based on any "internet theory" but the basic physical fact that the static coefficient of friction is greater than the kinetic coefficient of friction, and the rolling coefficient is significantly lower than either. In the context of this discussion yes the resistance from scrubbing rubber tires on the asphalt is what it is. And it is significantly more than the resistance from rolling rubber tires on asphalt.
 
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