273 timing gear cover

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jh66cuda

jh66cuda

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I'm currently swapping out my timing cover and as usual i tend to over think the process. Can anyone tell me if there is a specific tightening procedure to ensure the front seal is centered to the dampener hub.
 
IMHO, unless your service manual has a specific sequence, I would "snug" all of the bolts using a "crisscross" sequence, top to bottom, side to side. Then final torque them the same way. Your service manual should have a table of torque specifications.
Norm
 
I have never tried this method BUT read it here and will try it the next time.
Leave all of the bolts partially loose until you install balancer so that crank seal is completely centered. Makes sense to me??
Sorry not sure if there is a specific sequence. Torque specs will be in factory service manual.
 
4spdragtop said:
I have never tried this method BUT read it here and will try it the next time.
Leave all of the bolts partially loose until you install balancer so that crank seal is completely centered. Makes sense to me??
Sorry not sure if there is a specific sequence. Torque specs will be in factory service manual.
Click to expand...

Good idea, I just took it for granted that he had the cover and balancer in place already.
 
Does the timing cover have any guide pins?

I haven't had on off before.

If it does guide pins center the seal. If not do as 4spdragtop said.
 
Dana67Dart said:
Does the timing cover have any guide pins?

I haven't had on off before.

If it does guide pins center the seal. If not do as 4spdragtop said.
Click to expand...


I don't believe there are pins.
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All the original manual says is to install the cover and torque the bolts going into the block first and leave the two pan bolts for last. There are no locating pins which made me question the procedure. 4spdragtop, I like your idea and it makes sense. Thanks
 
I never gave it much thought just bolted down and never had any issues. I've always had SB Darts since 1976.
 
Yes, no guide pins. Install the cover, screw in the bolts by hand, install the balancer and wiggle the cover to center it on the balancer snout and snug the bolts. I would have to look up the spec but a criss -cross pattern usually works good. I put some Teflon sealer on the bolt threads There are a couple that screw into the water jackets.
 
And one of the bolts (on the driver's side IIRC) threads into the water jacket in an open hole. If you put too long a bolt in there, it can hit the #1 cylinder wall and bust it. So keep track of where the bolts come out.
 
Well that didn't go well...The seal leaks like a crazy. I loosened the pan bolts but I don'think it was enough to properly align the seal.. I was reluctant to break the pan gasket seal. Does anyone know if I can remove the pan when its in the car?
 
I put a dab of silcone RTV sealer on the exposed pan rails, on top of whatever gasket is there, and especially in the corners. I install the cover prying it down to get the short bolts started, then follow with the rest no pump just making sure they start. Then I snug the short bolts just enough to hold the cover against the block. Then I install and tighten the PANBOLTS first to draw the cover down. Finally I secure the short bolts, followed by the pump at my leisure. That's what I do, with zero-failures.
If you have no gaskets at all on the pan rail, then I install line-up bolts (bolts with no heads), in a couple of the long-bolt locations, to prevent the cover from falling down.
I have never installed the balancer to line up the seal; because, IMO,the seal lips are not strong enough to center the cover. The bottom of the cover has to be flush with the bottom of the block when you are finished. The only way I have ever been able to make this happen is by drawing it down with the panbolts. They are bigger for a reason. If you could see the seal lips,with the balancer installed, you could use them as witnesses, but IMO, kindof a waste of time.
Don't forget to install the oil-slinger. And don't forget about the crankcase ventilation system.The CC has to be ventilated or it will blow out somewhere, not always the easy places to re-seal.
 
jh66cuda said:
Well that didn't go well...The seal leaks like a crazy. I loosened the pan bolts but I don'think it was enough to properly align the seal.. I was reluctant to break the pan gasket seal. Does anyone know if I can remove the pan when its in the car?
Click to expand...
Too much work to solve a cover seal, but no, you can't without jacking the engine up several inches; and trying to clean the pan rails with the pan hanging there is a huge PITA and a lot of scrapings will end up in the pan.
Take the cover off, and see what went wrong. If the balancer nose is worn, you will have to install a Speed-E-sleeve
 
AJ/FormS said:
Too much work to solve a cover seal, but no, you can't without jacking the engine up several inches; and trying to clean the pan rails with the pan hanging there is a huge PITA and a lot of scrapings will end up in the pan.
Take the cover off, and see what went wrong. If the balancer nose is worn, you will have to install a Speed-E-sleeve
Click to expand...
Thanks, I didn't think removing the pan was a great idea, just frustrated... I pulled the damper off and the seal is no where close to being centered to the crank. I'll start over!!
 
I want to thank everyone for their input, lots of good information... After the first attempt I took a better look at the front cover that I purchased from Mancini, the lower two holes that thread into the block were much larger then the original cover, so I assume they were originally designed to center the cover. I also had to crack the seal on the pan. I then hand tightened the bottom four bolts. This allowed me to center the seal to the crank without fighting the pan seal. At then end of the day I managed to get the seal centered to 0.003. SO far so good... Thanks again!
 
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