300 HP out of a 318, is it possible with bolt ons?

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B314D715-6E8E-4608-BEE1-114611F345FC.jpeg

This bolt on will fill the cylinders at any elevation even with the stock cam, taking advantage of a low CR.
 
AJ/FormS said:
Yeah well the '74 is a 8/1 advertised, and with the stock cam in at 108, the Wallace predicts 136psi at 800 ft, with a miserable VP of 113. But we all know that a 74 is not actually an 8/1 engine at all, plus OP's has some miles on it, so it won't be in at 108 anymore, if it ever was..
AND
OP is in Colorado!
Lets say the Ica of the stock cam is 50* and Elevation is 4000, and the Scr is 7.8; The Wallace now predicts
a paltry 113 psi/ with
a VP of an abysmal 93.
That's your baseline with the stock cam.
----------------------------------------------
Now, lets see how the Whiplash fairs
The only thing I'm gonna change is the ICA from 50*, to 55*; and I get
108psi at
86 VP
@4000ft elevation.

But suppose OP is at 1000 ft
The Wallace then predicts:
123 psi@ VP of 98

I don't care if your name is Smoky Yunich, this is a dead dog engine until it gets up on the cam, which is a 213/226/109 @.050, so it ain't happening for a long time, even with 3.55s, cuz the factory stall mightabin 2000, and now with the paltry cylinder pressure, is gonna be even less.

And OP has verified this sad situation in post #45.

There; done!

Op; you can't fix this with gears.
You can get around it with a higher stall. But that cuts into your working rpm, which then requires a cam that extends the rpm higher, which then requires another gearchange, and on and on and on.
If you are at elevation, the situation quickly makes the car
NOT a DD anymore.

In a given engine, the best way to solve this is with a higher starting cylinder pressure. and Second best is slam that intake shut sooner. You need a fast rate of lift, Solid-Lifter cam, in a smaller than normal size, which I haven't seen in a long time.
Something with an Ica close to stock of 48* and then you'll get at least your stock pressure back.

But, just to be clear
In your current set-up, the high-stall is your best bang for the buck.
When I run a 318 auto, I like my 2800; that's what I always run.
but I am at 900 ft, with a stock cam, and I run whatever gear I want, and my 318 measured 140 psi to start with. It goes like snot with 4.30s!/ not bad with 3.91s/ slowing down with 3.55s/ and with 2.76s, I manually upshift ASAP and let the Thermoquad wail to like 80mph still at 2800..................... big grins all around.

BTW,
Without regard to stall speed;
a good VP number to shoot for is like 150, but you'll never get your teener there with any reasonable cam, unless you spend a boatload of cash on machining.
But 140 is doable, and runs fairly decent.
By 130VP, she's getting lazy, and a convertor is my go-to.
By 120VP, I ain't bolting nuttin on that stone.
By 110VP, I'd be embarrassed to be seen driving it
By 98VP, she's feeling like a tired 273.
By 86VP, it's about as snappy as stock slanty, and she's a lawn-ornament.
Them there are my opinions.

Here's the thing; that Whiplash, at 213 @.050, is gonna make peak power at around 4600/4800, and peak torque maybe as early as 3100/3300
Your 1-2 shift rpm, if you outshift at 5000, will drop in at 2950, but your roadspeed might only be 40mph(with the 3.55s). So on the shift into Second/1.45 ratio, you'll be doing ~40mph @2950rpm, and with no reasonable VP forthcoming ........................... you'll be able to measure your acceleration with a sundial........ The cam will start working again at say 3600, which will be 50mph. So that makes the hole to be from 40mph to 50mph, am I right?
I'd be looking at a stall speed of between 3200 and 3600 depending on how punchy you want the 1-2 shift to be. Then I would retard that cam several degrees to pump up the useable rpm, cuz I would no longer be worried about how low the VP is going. And then I would gear the car to run out of revs at 65mph in second gear. And then I would go out and have a blast. This assumes you are at or below 1000 ft elevation.
But if at 4000 ft, or higher, I would hire Myth-Busters to see how far they can trebuchet that slug, and go build me an alloy-headed 367 that pumps out closer to 200 psi. Or better yet, a cool as a cucumber, 383/400lo-deck-stroker.
Lemmee know if you need;
>a K-member,
>a 383 core,
>a SG 8.75 with 4.88s,(that's all I still have,bigger than 3.55),
>a fat driveshaft,
>some bigger T-bars,
> factory disc-brakes
And so on, lol.
sorry no trans .......................
unless you would like a 4-speed, lol.
Click to expand...
Sadly enough, I'm at 6500 ft of elevation, yikes! Driving down to New Mexico is a noticable difference in power, dropping to around 2000 ft of elevation. For now, a 2800 stall will be the only hope for scavenging hp.
 
AJ/FormS said:
When I run a 318 auto, I like my 2800; that's what I always run.
but I am at 900 ft, with a stock cam, and I run whatever gear I want, and my 318 measured 140 psi to start with. It goes like snot with 4.30s!
Click to expand...
What would your estimation be of this combos 1/4 mile time?

Seems to me the debate is do you want doggy ish 14s car or a peppy 14s car, but in the end of the day it's a 14s car.

CR, gears, stall seems to be the last if at all, mods the general person wants to do, from all the threads I've seen. So the debate seems to be stock 16s + car or doggy 14s car.
 
madjak.06 said:
Sadly enough, I'm at 6500 ft of elevation, yikes! Driving down to New Mexico is a noticable difference in power, dropping to around 2000 ft of elevation. For now, a 2800 stall will be the only hope for scavenging hp.
Click to expand...
Still it's all relative, performance is just gonna be down across the board, no matter what level of build you do.
 
AJ/FormS said:
Yeah well the '74 is a 8/1 advertised, and with the stock cam in at 108, the Wallace predicts 136psi at 800 ft, with a miserable VP of 113. But we all know that a 74 is not actually an 8/1 engine at all, plus OP's has some miles on it, so it won't be in at 108 anymore, if it ever was..
AND
OP is in Colorado!
Lets say the Ica of the stock cam is 50* and Elevation is 4000, and the Scr is 7.8; The Wallace now predicts
a paltry 113 psi/ with
a VP of an abysmal 93.
That's your baseline with the stock cam.
----------------------------------------------
Now, lets see how the Whiplash fairs
The only thing I'm gonna change is the ICA from 50*, to 55*; and I get
108psi at
86 VP
@4000ft elevation.

But suppose OP is at 1000 ft
The Wallace then predicts:
123 psi@ VP of 98

I don't care if your name is Smoky Yunich, this is a dead dog engine until it gets up on the cam, which is a 213/226/109 @.050, so it ain't happening for a long time, even with 3.55s, cuz the factory stall mightabin 2000, and now with the paltry cylinder pressure, is gonna be even less.

And OP has verified this sad situation in post #45.

There; done!

Op; you can't fix this with gears.
You can get around it with a higher stall. But that cuts into your working rpm, which then requires a cam that extends the rpm higher, which then requires another gearchange, and on and on and on.
If you are at elevation, the situation quickly makes the car
NOT a DD anymore.

In a given engine, the best way to solve this is with a higher starting cylinder pressure. and Second best is slam that intake shut sooner. You need a fast rate of lift, Solid-Lifter cam, in a smaller than normal size, which I haven't seen in a long time.
Something with an Ica close to stock of 48* and then you'll get at least your stock pressure back.

But, just to be clear
In your current set-up, the high-stall is your best bang for the buck.
When I run a 318 auto, I like my 2800; that's what I always run.
but I am at 900 ft, with a stock cam, and I run whatever gear I want, and my 318 measured 140 psi to start with. It goes like snot with 4.30s!/ not bad with 3.91s/ slowing down with 3.55s/ and with 2.76s, I manually upshift ASAP and let the Thermoquad wail to like 80mph still at 2800..................... big grins all around.

BTW,
Without regard to stall speed;
a good VP number to shoot for is like 150, but you'll never get your teener there with any reasonable cam, unless you spend a boatload of cash on machining.
But 140 is doable, and runs fairly decent.
By 130VP, she's getting lazy, and a convertor is my go-to.
By 120VP, I ain't bolting nuttin on that stone.
By 110VP, I'd be embarrassed to be seen driving it
By 98VP, she's feeling like a tired 273.
By 86VP, it's about as snappy as stock slanty, and she's a lawn-ornament.
Them there are my opinions.

Here's the thing; that Whiplash, at 213 @.050, is gonna make peak power at around 4600/4800, and peak torque maybe as early as 3100/3300
Your 1-2 shift rpm, if you outshift at 5000, will drop in at 2950, but your roadspeed might only be 40mph(with the 3.55s). So on the shift into Second/1.45 ratio, you'll be doing ~40mph @2950rpm, and with no reasonable VP forthcoming ........................... you'll be able to measure your acceleration with a sundial........ The cam will start working again at say 3600, which will be 50mph. So that makes the hole to be from 40mph to 50mph, am I right?
I'd be looking at a stall speed of between 3200 and 3600 depending on how punchy you want the 1-2 shift to be. Then I would retard that cam several degrees to pump up the useable rpm, cuz I would no longer be worried about how low the VP is going. And then I would gear the car to run out of revs at 65mph in second gear. And then I would go out and have a blast. This assumes you are at or below 1000 ft elevation.
But if at 4000 ft, or higher, I would hire Myth-Busters to see how far they can trebuchet that slug, and go build me an alloy-headed 367 that pumps out closer to 200 psi. Or better yet, a cool as a cucumber, 383/400lo-deck-stroker.
Lemmee know if you need;
>a K-member,
>a 383 core,
>a SG 8.75 with 4.88s,(that's all I still have,bigger than 3.55),
>a fat driveshaft,
>some bigger T-bars,
> factory disc-brakes
And so on, lol.
sorry no trans .......................
unless you would like a 4-speed, lol.
Click to expand...
Couldn't the OP just base a cam on stock or even optimal IVC and run the LSA to achieve 210-215 @ 0.050" intake duration and keep stock + V/P?
 
AJ/FormS said:
Yeah well the '74 is a 8/1 advertised, and with the stock cam in at 108, the Wallace predicts 136psi at 800 ft, with a miserable VP of 113. But we all know that a 74 is not actually an 8/1 engine at all, plus OP's has some miles on it, so it won't be in at 108 anymore, if it ever was..
AND
OP is in Colorado!
Lets say the Ica of the stock cam is 50* and Elevation is 4000, and the Scr is 7.8; The Wallace now predicts
a paltry 113 psi/ with
a VP of an abysmal 93.
That's your baseline with the stock cam.
----------------------------------------------
Now, lets see how the Whiplash fairs
The only thing I'm gonna change is the ICA from 50*, to 55*; and I get
108psi at
86 VP
@4000ft elevation.

But suppose OP is at 1000 ft
The Wallace then predicts:
123 psi@ VP of 98

I don't care if your name is Smoky Yunich, this is a dead dog engine until it gets up on the cam, which is a 213/226/109 @.050, so it ain't happening for a long time, even with 3.55s, cuz the factory stall mightabin 2000, and now with the paltry cylinder pressure, is gonna be even less.

And OP has verified this sad situation in post #45.

There; done!

Op; you can't fix this with gears.
You can get around it with a higher stall. But that cuts into your working rpm, which then requires a cam that extends the rpm higher, which then requires another gearchange, and on and on and on.
If you are at elevation, the situation quickly makes the car
NOT a DD anymore.

In a given engine, the best way to solve this is with a higher starting cylinder pressure. and Second best is slam that intake shut sooner. You need a fast rate of lift, Solid-Lifter cam, in a smaller than normal size, which I haven't seen in a long time.
Something with an Ica close to stock of 48* and then you'll get at least your stock pressure back.

But, just to be clear
In your current set-up, the high-stall is your best bang for the buck.
When I run a 318 auto, I like my 2800; that's what I always run.
but I am at 900 ft, with a stock cam, and I run whatever gear I want, and my 318 measured 140 psi to start with. It goes like snot with 4.30s!/ not bad with 3.91s/ slowing down with 3.55s/ and with 2.76s, I manually upshift ASAP and let the Thermoquad wail to like 80mph still at 2800..................... big grins all around.

BTW,
Without regard to stall speed;
a good VP number to shoot for is like 150, but you'll never get your teener there with any reasonable cam, unless you spend a boatload of cash on machining.
But 140 is doable, and runs fairly decent.
By 130VP, she's getting lazy, and a convertor is my go-to.
By 120VP, I ain't bolting nuttin on that stone.
By 110VP, I'd be embarrassed to be seen driving it
By 98VP, she's feeling like a tired 273.
By 86VP, it's about as snappy as stock slanty, and she's a lawn-ornament.
Them there are my opinions.

Here's the thing; that Whiplash, at 213 @.050, is gonna make peak power at around 4600/4800, and peak torque maybe as early as 3100/3300
Your 1-2 shift rpm, if you outshift at 5000, will drop in at 2950, but your roadspeed might only be 40mph(with the 3.55s). So on the shift into Second/1.45 ratio, you'll be doing ~40mph @2950rpm, and with no reasonable VP forthcoming ........................... you'll be able to measure your acceleration with a sundial........ The cam will start working again at say 3600, which will be 50mph. So that makes the hole to be from 40mph to 50mph, am I right?
I'd be looking at a stall speed of between 3200 and 3600 depending on how punchy you want the 1-2 shift to be. Then I would retard that cam several degrees to pump up the useable rpm, cuz I would no longer be worried about how low the VP is going. And then I would gear the car to run out of revs at 65mph in second gear. And then I would go out and have a blast. This assumes you are at or below 1000 ft elevation.
But if at 4000 ft, or higher, I would hire Myth-Busters to see how far they can trebuchet that slug, and go build me an alloy-headed 367 that pumps out closer to 200 psi. Or better yet, a cool as a cucumber, 383/400lo-deck-stroker.
Lemmee know if you need;
>a K-member,
>a 383 core,
>a SG 8.75 with 4.88s,(that's all I still have,bigger than 3.55),
>a fat driveshaft,
>some bigger T-bars,
> factory disc-brakes
And so on, lol.
sorry no trans .......................
unless you would like a 4-speed, lol.
Click to expand...
the whiplash 318 cam has a IVC of 30!!! not 50 or 55!!!
1701818796998.png

love your post most time a/j, thay get long winded but you do well explaining stuff so us simple minded moparitians can understand this stuff, yes them rocky mts gonna suck alotta life outta a very good low compression 318 with any cam, could advance the cam and gain some bottom end back...dwb
 
Last edited:
My Duster with a 318 that was 9.4-1 comp, Edelbrock heads and intake, NO whiplash cam, ran 11.70s 1/4 mile, it had to make around 300hp i figure.
 
He just refuses to acknowledge there's many ways to build a Eg. 14s car, some are gonna run stronger or weaker but at the end of the day a 14s car is a 14s car, and it's up to the OP's what compromises their willing to live with.

I'm sure if you took a stock 318 bumped up CR added a 2800-3000 stall, 4.30-4.88 out back with maybe a deeper 1st gear and a good tune the car would feel strong especially with 4bbl and headers but I don't know if it would be actually quicker in the quarter mile than a cammed 4bbl and headers 318 with stock stall and gears. Ones making the most of what a stock cam 318 has and the other making more power but using it inefficiently, which one is putting more average power to the ground? 0-60, 0-100, 1/8, 1/4, light to light etc.. whatever you do with your car.




 
dirty white boy said:
gotta be a 6000 rpm stall and 6:33 gears its a 318 gotta wind it to heaven to make any power!! kid on a damn bicycle out pull a 318 outta the hole!!
Click to expand...
ValiantRacing said:
I had a 318 in my Duster, KB pistons 9.4-1 comp with stock Edelbrock heads, cam .545 lift cam, air gap intake, 430 gears, great street car! drove it to the track, full interior went 11.70s on good day and 11.80s in bad weather. 318s run great just need to have the combo right.
Click to expand...

he's also got a val with a 273 that runs deep 12's that's set up with a 5K converter and 4.88's (and a cam with a bunch of duration).

nothing to sneeze at. very well set up cars with a lot of work to get there! but yeah, a bunch of stall and some gears can get you the 1/4 mile number, but don't make for a otherwise usable car.
 
Didn't a certain YT Uncle do this with a Bottle Rocket Doo- Hickey thing-a-ma ding early 70s Taxicab...? :)
 
wait a minute..."Bolt ons" He has an intake, a 600 cfm carb, mild cam and headers.
might not make 300 hp with a 318?
 
Simple answer is NO. The head flow is **** even for aftermarket. Porting Heads and over boreing a block isn't a bolt on.
 
360notch said:
Regarding the OPs question, this reply from MOPAROFFICIAL will get it done.
Click to expand...
I think Mopar wasn't paying attention to the OP post.
He (the OP)has the Eddy 318 intake with the small 318 sized intake ports and the LA bolt pattern,
Magnum heads are neither a simple bolt on for his build nor would they make 300hp on a 318 with the 340 cam.
OP'd have to spend over $1,400 to switch over to magnum heads.
There is a very slim chance in getting 300hp out of a stock 318 with just out of the box parts (bolt ons) or did he (the OP) mean the car Magazine definition of bolt ons?
IE-Real bolt on- stock $400 rebuilt 302 casting heads, with 3 angle and resurfaced as they come from the machinists.
IE-Magazine bolt on-$3000 heads with $2000 of machine work which are shaved and decked,fully ported, edelbrocks ,cut for bigger ,back faced and deshrouded valves with shaved guides and a 5 angle valve job.
It takes a lot of reworking and customizing of parts to get 300HP from a 318.
It's no longer a 318 if it's been bored or stroked.
I didn't suggest cnc'd aluminum heads because he be spending 2/3 of buying a 310 hp 400ft/lbs 5.9 crate engine for a little more than the heads cost and swap most of his LA parts over.
 
Deltatech said:
It takes a lot of reworking and customizing of parts to get 300HP from a 318.
It's no longer a 318 if it's been bored or stroked.
Click to expand...
a stock (early) 318 makes 230 HP so i don't think there's a lot of "reworking & customizing" in the parts department to find 70 ponies.

stroked, sure. no argument there. but a 30 over 318 is still a 318.
 
junkyardhero said:
a stock (early) 318 makes 230 HP so i don't think there's a lot of "reworking & customizing" in the parts department to find 70 ponies.

stroked, sure. no argument there. but a 30 over 318 is still a 318.
Click to expand...
Hard to gain 70 with bolt on parts.
 
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