Ugh! What engine?
318-3 Closed Chamber Truck Heads
- Thread starter 70coupe
- Start date
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68 318
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
Tell ya, if I was in this situation, I'd likely try it!!! LOL
MOPAROFFICIAL
Oogliboogli
Probably already said, use them.
There is a water cross over, ta pp and plug it on the deck side or just use some thin metal plate with rtv.
I have a set, diff cast number 234 or 324 or something.
There is a water cross over, ta pp and plug it on the deck side or just use some thin metal plate with rtv.
I have a set, diff cast number 234 or 324 or something.
Exactly. It will be fine. I just love how something out of the ordinary brings out the experts.
dirty white boy
50 yr old Juvenal delinquent
you can build quench with them combustion chambers and get away with lil higher compression rato with out detonation if you study up on it! good info in this site as well as all over the web! these heads similer to the late 80s 318 "302" heads some love some hate!
we used those heads here in the states on the 68 thru last heavy duty truck built dodge 700 size trucks with the winged hoods and flip out fenders had too work on a small fleet of them in the state gov.smallest engine you can find for state contracts every body else used the 361 or 413
LivewireBlanco
Well-Known Member
I'm interested in this exact situation. I have the 67 heads that end in 234. There's not a whole lot of info out there on these heads. Let me know how things work out!
MOPAROFFICIAL
Oogliboogli
I run the 234 heads on a 318, just plate off the water cross over with rtv and a thin peice of metal like you would if it was an exh cross over.
Look... for those who don't know, the only advantage to these heads is there is no exhaust cross over meaning all the exhaust ports are blind. When you have a port in each head that is open on the far side of the bowl to feed a cross over...the exhaust goes the wrong direction....get it yet? No more 1 out of 4 ports flowing less than the other 3.
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Thanks M.O... Armchair Bomber.. Learns today...
My 2 cents...........
As a head off a medium/heavy duty 318, it would make perfect sense that they would have hardened exhaust seats, maybe even stelite inserts
MOPAROFFICIAL
Oogliboogli
Don't for get the closed chamber, it's not as loving as the 302 casting or early 273 head, but it works.Thanks M.O... Armchair Bomber.. Learns today...
After all this discussion, I'm now not sure whether I am going to use them, not because I think there will be issues, but because my combo has changed a bit. My engine was a good running 318 which I was going to freshen up, but upon pulling it down it needs everything, so it's at the machine shop getting zero-decked to KB167s, balanced with a Comp XE268.
I'm in dilemma on whether to use these or just buy the eddies to make the most of the new bottom end.
Not sure which way to go yet, gotta pay for the bottom end first!
Open to suggestions!
Pete
I'm in dilemma on whether to use these or just buy the eddies to make the most of the new bottom end.
Not sure which way to go yet, gotta pay for the bottom end first!
Open to suggestions!
Pete
If you're going to pony up for new heads, I'd stay the hell away from eddys. Isn't EQ native to you? Those 318B's need a little guide work, but, other than that they're pretty darn good.
jayk
Member
I have a question on exhaust on these engines. Can I use regular 318 aftermarket headers?
I am trying to get it running better with a little more power to move my RV. I ordered a carb rebuild kit. I have done a full tune up, cap, rotor, points and condenser, plugs and wires.
Please share any tips or tricks.
Thanks!
I am trying to get it running better with a little more power to move my RV. I ordered a carb rebuild kit. I have done a full tune up, cap, rotor, points and condenser, plugs and wires.
Please share any tips or tricks.
Thanks!
You should be able too, yes.
The heads may have air ports drilled right under the bottom of the port. Some lock tight on Allen studs to block them off so they don’t leak exhaust might have to be done. This depends on the year of the vehicle. It is pretty much a simple job. The worst thing that might have to be done is to use a tap to clear up the threads in the head. If you don’t have threads there, I’ve seen tin foil used though most like something like a JB Weld or other epoxy.
A little bump in the distributor time can help as well. Do you have a 2 or 4 bbl carb?
jayk
Member
It is a2bbl. I'll pull off the exhaust manifold and see. It's a1970 with the front cross over tube to a single 1 1/2" exhaust down the passenger side with 2 mufflers!!!
A 1970? You’re good on the heads. No worries there.
You’re looking at 1-5/8 headers. I suggest a 2-1/2 exhaust pipe size. An “X” or “H” pipe to connect each side. To help keep things as quite as possible, a Dyno Max turbo muffler is probably your best bet. Or a Walker sound FX. The longer the muffler, the quieter it’ll be and since it’s an RV, quite inside while cruising is one thing but at rest is another & something I’m sure you’ll be after.
Sending you a PM.
James Clews
Well-Known Member
Those 318-3 engines were only used in trucks and yes the heads take different plugs and have water heated crossover instead of exhaust gas! The engine itself has double row timming chain, fully floating conrods and steel crankshaft so all is heavy duty for trucks but on the down side has different sump for truck.
jayk
Member
Do you know if they ever made a 4 barrel intake for them?
Chrysler did equip the 318 in the later years with a Thermoquad 4bbl, the small primary unit. If you can’t find a cheap OEM unit, the Edelbrock Performer is prime choice. Use the non egr version.
Front or rear sump?
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