318>383 swap ('74 Valiant)

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Stance

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I'm planning engine swap 318->383 for my '74 Valiant (original V8 car), my current combo is 318cid, TF904, 8 1/4, 2 1/4 duals with stock exh.manifolds, car has front disk brakes. Is there something I should be aware of in this swap project: is it basically drop-in (they never are I know...)?

Car is for street only.
 
383 is a B block, {413/440 are RB}
273/318/ 340/360 are "A" blocks.

You will need a different tranny, 727 for Big block,
different exhaust, different pulleys, brackets for power steering/ alt. etc.

A 360 swap would be easier. That still needs a little research.

Mopar used different bellhousing patterns Each; for Slant 6,
small blocks, and big blocks. So swaps are more work.
 
Stance said:
I'm planning engine swap 318->383 for my '74 Valiant (original V8 car), my current combo is 318cid, TF904, 8 1/4, 2 1/4 duals with stock exh.manifolds, car has front disk brakes. Is there something I should be aware of in this swap project: is it basically drop-in (they never are I know...)?

Car is for street only.
Click to expand...

The following website has everything you ever need to know about this swap:
http://www.bigblockdart.com/
And it is far from a drop-in swap. You'll need special engine mounts, BB swap headers (or some BB manifolds work) and lots more, but you'll find out after browsing the site. Personally, given the weight increase and the fit problems, I'd spend some money on a good 360 build, but too each their own.
 
Thanks Caveman and middleagecrisis, good information and great link. Yes, 360 would be a lot easier..I'll check those MP 360 crate engines too, could be cheaper also..Maybe I'll get pass this BB fever! :toothy7:
 
My sons Dart you see here was a 318 AC car. We had a BB K-frame and used it but now you can get the Schumacher mounts. It really wasn't that bad. Once you have the BB trans and the right eng mounts. We use all the 318 suspension parts (but we rebuilt the front end) including it still has the original 318 torsion bars. I figured we removed the AC and use headers and aluminum intake so it really is not much heavier. It has all the stock body parts and the springs are not moved and it has not been tubbed. You will like the bigblock A-body. His handles great and gets driven everywhere. And it's a mild 400 that runs mid 11's all day.
Oh and don't worry he spanked that ZO6 Vette good. Ron

153054438.jpg
 
383man said:
It has all the stock body parts and the springs are not moved and it has not been tubbed. You will like the bigblock A-body. His handles great and gets driven everywhere. And it's a mild 400 that runs mid 11's all day.
Click to expand...

383man, that BB A-body is just what I'm thinking to aim at:stock looking & fast fast fast! Actually I know one '74 Valiant from Finland with 383 in it, I think they run low 13's with it.

383man said:
Oh and don't worry he spanked that ZO6 Vette good. Ron
Click to expand...
:thumbup:
 
Your k-member can be built into a copy of the old Direct Connection big block a-body unit. Check out the tech articles at bigblockdart for instructions. The swap is fairly easy, especially with a 383.
 
After using them personally, I'd recommend the Schumacher headers for your project too. You might give up 20 or so horsepower, but the ease of installation coupled with the great ground clearance make up for it. They aren't cheap, at $500 but I personally wouldn't go any other way. By the way do you know the Dudesons? Love their show. Sisu!
 
dusterdon said:
After using them personally, I'd recommend the Schumacher headers for your project too. You might give up 20 or so horsepower, but the ease of installation coupled with the great ground clearance make up for it. They aren't cheap, at $500 but I personally wouldn't go any other way. By the way do you know the Dudesons? Love their show. Sisu!
Click to expand...

When you think about it, $500 isn't really all that expensive. The alternatives are factory a-body manifolds (more than that PLUS headpipes) and b-body manifolds ($250 plus headpipes puts them very close to Schumacher headers) OR more expensive full length headers.
 
Thanks for the kind words Stance. We like the stock sneaky look also. We bought these CPPA headers in 1997 and the TTI are just like them but better. I myself like them and the plufs are really not bad but just don't change them on a hot eng. I prefer the hp so thats why my son used the full lenth headers over the shorty headers that rob hp. Ron

88836750.jpg
 
Like you all wrote, the price of good headers is a small investment in this project; actually I've been thinking TTI's but good to hear that there are other options too.

dusterdon, yes of course I know those crazy bastar**, Sisua perkele!! :toothy7:

383man, lovely machine, thanks for the pictures!
 
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