Josecuda
Well-Known Member
Is there any handling improvement if I add 318 torsion bars to a slant six car? Anyone done that before?
318 Bars on /6
- Thread starter Josecuda
- Start date
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66340SEDAN
FABO Member #3649
Yes, it would definetly help the handling!
Charrlie_S
Well-Known Member
It depends on the year of the car. Some years had the same bars slant six or small eight. You need to measure the dia of the bar, or get the number off it.
player1up
Well-Known Member
What are you trying to accomplish?
IMHO a sway bar out front is a better return on investment and you may decide that is enough.
I've got .870" t-bars and a sway bar and the sway bar made the most difference. In hind sight I should have gotten the .890" ones
IMHO a sway bar out front is a better return on investment and you may decide that is enough.
I've got .870" t-bars and a sway bar and the sway bar made the most difference. In hind sight I should have gotten the .890" ones
Josecuda
Well-Known Member
So here's the deal. I'm planning to swap the /6 bars on my duster for some set that I believe are out of a 318 that have been laying around. The car is a 1972 duster with A/C and P/S, the stock bars read .890. The ones I believe are out of a 318 have a 058 Left bar. Also I have another set that came out of a 1968 /6 Barracuda PS, they read 387 and 327. Which of these three sets will be best for handling? Where can I find for the bar specs according to their #'s? I believe a sway bar will be a best improvement but I have these laying around and will like to use the best I can on the '72.
2 Darts
A-body Addicted
In my experience, a car with 225 & A/C had the same bars as a 318 car unless it had a heavy duty suspension or an A-38 package. The weight difference between the engines is minimal. A 318 with an aluminum intake and headers weighs less than an all cast iron 225. The surest way to see what you have is to measure the diameter of the bars.
For a street car, stiffest is not always the best. The Demon was a /6 car with A/C. I chose to leave the bars alone and went with very firm shocks and the largest sway bars I could find. My objective is to control the wheel motion as best I can while still maintaining a smooth ride. Mutually exclusive??? This seems to be the way the better European road cars are setup until you start dealing with AMG or M-Sport.
For a street car, stiffest is not always the best. The Demon was a /6 car with A/C. I chose to leave the bars alone and went with very firm shocks and the largest sway bars I could find. My objective is to control the wheel motion as best I can while still maintaining a smooth ride. Mutually exclusive??? This seems to be the way the better European road cars are setup until you start dealing with AMG or M-Sport.
dgc333
Well-Known Member
I went from the .850 base sb v8 heavy duty \6 bars to .890 bb v8 bars. It gave me a nice firm well controlled ride without being harsh. They also made a dramatic improvement in the handling.
All new cars (including european cars) use a much higher spring rate than what was the norm back in the day when our cars were new.
There is a debate going on on another forum whether .920 or .990 are the best way to go for a street only A-body. IMHO the .830 or .850 bars are way to weak for any A-body regardless of engine.
All new cars (including european cars) use a much higher spring rate than what was the norm back in the day when our cars were new.
There is a debate going on on another forum whether .920 or .990 are the best way to go for a street only A-body. IMHO the .830 or .850 bars are way to weak for any A-body regardless of engine.
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