318 build with dyno session
- Thread starter NC Engine Builder
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Newbomb Turk
Well-Known Member
The roller should beat it until the valve train goes chaotic.
The roller and FT lobe should not be the same, even though the numbers LOOK the same.
The roller, once the valve is moving should have far more area under the curve than FT lobe.
You can smack a FT lifter pretty hard right off the seat, but you are limited by lifter diameter how fast you can move it after that.
The roller can’t take that hit right off the seat, but once it’s moving you can throw as much valve speed at it as the valve train will take.
Valve speed, like. RPM is your friend. Until you can’t control it.
Icetech
Well-Known Member
Yeah, just did a search and read a bit, was just surprised that i couldn't find a side by side dyno comparison.. learned a bit though
You can skip to 10:45 for final dyno results. They have the same @ 0.050" but the roller has .050" more lift.
https://www.hotrod.com/news/engine-masters-ep-16-tests-roller-vs-flat-tappet-camshafts-and-lifters/
There also is out there (somewhere) a 383 mopar cam shootout where they compare a milder and wilder flat tappet, then a milder roller and it basically gave the best of both of the flat tappet cams.
Icetech
Well-Known Member
Exactly. What we didn't know didn't bite us in the azz back then. I think cam cores were much better then. And, a lot of cams had duration and not much lift. Stock springs and valvetrain worked well.
Icetech
Well-Known Member
AHH.. that's a very good point... valve springs? uhhh yeah.. it has some
as kids we used whatever was in the head with 60k miles on em.. probably made the difference.
Oldiron440
Well-Known Member
Needs more cam
NC Engine Builder
Grumpy Old Man
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Perhaps, but it will be for sale at the conclusion of the dyno testing, so not a "set on kill" type build.
NC Engine Builder
Grumpy Old Man
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No flat lobes here hopefully, I reface every flat tappet lifter I install, and knock on wood, no flat lobes so far. I firmly believe the issues are with the machining of the lifter faces, not the cam cores, not the hardness, allways the lifter. In my experience.
NC Engine Builder
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Well, what I use is my dowel pin puller, i put a pin in the end, clamp down with the puller and slide hammer it out
Icetech
Well-Known Member
k.. will figure it out.. not sure if i should try to remove the cam bearings or let the shop do it.. should probably ask them
if you're gonna have the shop put 'em back in let the shop do it!k.. will figure it out.. not sure if i should try to remove the cam bearings or let the shop do it.. should probably ask them
(either way, let the shop do it)
Icetech
Well-Known Member
I like to do all i can... doens't look too bad to do.. worst i do is waste a set or 2 of bearings
i feel ya on that. i just look at it from a purely economical level $60 for the shop to knock 'em in (while the thing is already there getting hot tanked) vs dropping $80 for two sets plus the frustration.I like to do all i can... doens't look too bad to do.. worst i do is waste a set or 2 of bearings
also if you don't have the johnny kick *** tool, like the real deal one of the good ones you're all but gar-un-teed to mess up at least one. and hopefully not the same one twice!
Oldiron440
Well-Known Member
What’s the compression ratio with the parts you have?
Are you willing to cut the heads for a decent cr number?
Are you willing to cut the heads for a decent cr number?
mopowers
Well-Known Member
Do you provide that service for hire? If so, what's the cost to have a new set refaced? It's pretty sad that it's even needed these days.
NC Engine Builder
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Yessir, I do them all the time, its $5 a lifter
Oldiron440
Well-Known Member
Just my opinion but I would like to see duration at
050 at 237 and 245 with lift at .560 if it fit the piston.
Compression is the key here 10.5 minimum.
Icetech
Well-Known Member
well.. at the time i was trying to get torque out of the motor plus it will rarely go over 5500-6k.. the cam works really well, the idle is a bit much bit runs great..
NC Engine Builder
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I will be zero decking the block, and will for sure mill the heads to get the desired chamber size. Goal is 10.8 with a .039 gasket
JDMopar
Well-Known Member
I've got an old valve that works good as a drift pin to knock the tube out from the inside if the pan is off. Perfect size to knock it out without boogering up the bottom of the tube.
Icetech
Well-Known Member
ahh ok.. i wasn't sure if there the tube was inside a recess or just in the hole.. that will work. My block is so dirty it's crazy, gonna powerwash it this weekend..
Sorry for all the chat in your thread NC...
Do you have an opinion on the comp dlc coated lifters?
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