Degree the cam and crank at the same time. Even if stock.
the one i ordered was a Cloyes but they had two different ones a $27 one and $66 one.... i have a feeling i got the fake one your talking about. lolYou have to be aware that there are "fake" ones and "real" ones. "Real" double row "roller chain" drives are EXACTLY what the name implies -- roller chain.
Some of the 'fake' ones are not really roller, just look like it. If you cannot rotate the link pins, they aren't roller.
Stay with known good quality brands, like Cloyes. (I hope)
The other thing is, just going to a good quality silent / Morse chain with ALL STEEL sprockets (they are not gears) is a big step over those stupid phenolic drives
What does that mean?
Due to the fact your using 5 different manufactured parts to get the crank and cam timed correctly according to the cams center line, this is verification that it is correct. If the cam key, crank key, cam sprocket key way, crank sprocket key way, or chain is off, the timing of the crank and cam will be off. The two directions below better explain what and why. I've read where builders have found timing chains (and not the cheap ones) to be off as much as 7-10 deg when it is supposed to be "straight up".
http://www.compcams.com/Technical/Instructions/Files/145.pdf
http://www.cranecams.com/uploads/instructions/803.pdf
What does that mean?
ive got it broken down to the large nut in the center of the crank shaft.. is that a reverse thread bolt? and whats the best way to remove it, with an impact gun?
So far every billet gear roller setup has been off as much as 8* 'advance'
I have had to retard 6*... to get 2* btdc.
wether this is a problem with billet/high end stuff only, Im not sure.
I bet I know when I play with the lil 318 and it's eddy set.
if you are using a regular iron set in a stock engine, just dot to dot it.