318 Double row timing upgrade?

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RH62

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Any issues I should watch for on this upgrade? I purchased a double row timing set for my 318. My motor is a 73 motor but has the early water pump for my 69 car.
 
You have to be aware that there are "fake" ones and "real" ones. "Real" double row "roller chain" drives are EXACTLY what the name implies -- roller chain.

Some of the 'fake' ones are not really roller, just look like it. If you cannot rotate the link pins, they aren't roller.

Stay with known good quality brands, like Cloyes. (I hope)

The other thing is, just going to a good quality silent / Morse chain with ALL STEEL sprockets (they are not gears) is a big step over those stupid phenolic drives
 
67Dart273 said:
You have to be aware that there are "fake" ones and "real" ones. "Real" double row "roller chain" drives are EXACTLY what the name implies -- roller chain.

Some of the 'fake' ones are not really roller, just look like it. If you cannot rotate the link pins, they aren't roller.

Stay with known good quality brands, like Cloyes. (I hope)

The other thing is, just going to a good quality silent / Morse chain with ALL STEEL sprockets (they are not gears) is a big step over those stupid phenolic drives
Click to expand...
the one i ordered was a Cloyes but they had two different ones a $27 one and $66 one.... i have a feeling i got the fake one your talking about. lol
 
If I'm going the cheaper end $55... I just use a eddy chain set

If Im going to spend more $90-$120...it's billet gear roller chain, like JP,Mancini,Rollmaster , etc..
 
Due to the fact your using 5 different manufactured parts to get the crank and cam timed correctly according to the cams center line, this is verification that it is correct. If the cam key, crank key, cam sprocket key way, crank sprocket key way, or chain is off, the timing of the crank and cam will be off. The two directions below better explain what and why. I've read where builders have found timing chains (and not the cheap ones) to be off as much as 7-10 deg when it is supposed to be "straight up".

http://www.compcams.com/Technical/Instructions/Files/145.pdf

http://www.cranecams.com/uploads/instructions/803.pdf

RH62 said:
What does that mean?
Click to expand...
 
dano said:
Due to the fact your using 5 different manufactured parts to get the crank and cam timed correctly according to the cams center line, this is verification that it is correct. If the cam key, crank key, cam sprocket key way, crank sprocket key way, or chain is off, the timing of the crank and cam will be off. The two directions below better explain what and why. I've read where builders have found timing chains (and not the cheap ones) to be off as much as 7-10 deg when it is supposed to be "straight up".

http://www.compcams.com/Technical/Instructions/Files/145.pdf

http://www.cranecams.com/uploads/instructions/803.pdf
Click to expand...

So far every billet gear roller setup has been off as much as 8* 'advance'

I have had to retard 6*... to get 2* btdc.

wether this is a problem with billet/high end stuff only, Im not sure.

I bet I know when I play with the lil 318 and it's eddy set.
 
hmmm.. just picked up my timing CHAIN. i guess the guy didnt order right i thought i was getting the whole set for 27 bucks.... now i have a chain with no sprockets to use it on. ill prolly take it back and just get a regular chain. oh well it was worth a shot...
 
ive got it broken down to the large nut in the center of the crank shaft.. is that a reverse thread bolt? and whats the best way to remove it, with an impact gun?
 
RH62 said:
What does that mean?
Click to expand...

#1 piston should be at TDC EX stroke at the same instant both intake and ex valves are at the same lift........

That's where stock cams work best..... I degree them 2* Advance, to compensate for timing chain slop later in life, but thats just me.
 
1wild&crazyguy said:
So far every billet gear roller setup has been off as much as 8* 'advance'

I have had to retard 6*... to get 2* btdc.

wether this is a problem with billet/high end stuff only, Im not sure.

I bet I know when I play with the lil 318 and it's eddy set.
Click to expand...

It's roulette blindly installing a chain and gears without degreeing what your motor will run like...... Scary.

8* advance on a cam with say.... 40* overlap would run like total dog dookie.
 
thanks!
is it normal for a worn motor to have aprox 1/16" slop in the crank shaft?
 
im still fuzzy on how to degree the cam.... i thought lining up the timing marks on the two sprockets was all i had to worry about.
 
.............Then u have a worn thrust bearing if u have that much play........center of the crank/block.........needs replacing.........kim............
 
it kinda clunks back and forth... when you push/pull
 
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