318 draw through build

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Hi, Yes, you will need a turbo with a seal to stop it sucking oil past the shaft and into the compressor housing when it's under vacuum.
I'd have to think that the fuel being added upstream would cool the charge down.
I think I've got a map for this turbo somewhere , I'd just have to find it. It's a Rajay 300E turbo. Still supported because it was used on aircraft as well as auto applications.
Sure, I can't see any reason why you couldn't use it as a twin setup.

Hey! Thanks! The Rayjay 300E is still made new?
And if not, who makes the turbo with a seal for when it is under vacuum?
 
This is a cool build. I know there was some kind of draw thru set up for 440 mobile homes that used the Rayjay turbo. No idea what size that was, but it is very similar to this.

My question is do you need to build any kind of dam in the floor of the intake? Seems like the forced air/fuel mix would blow across the floor and mainly get sucked down one side of the intake causing a lean condition on the opposite side. Is that even an issue? I know, I'm thinking too much.
 
Hey! Thanks! The Rayjay 300E is still made new?
And if not, who makes the turbo with a seal for when it is under vacuum?
I don't think they are made new anymore. The one I used had been kicking around the workshop since a friend gave it to me 25 years ago. I finally found a use for it :)
I still see them on Ebay, usually as part of some older turbo kits, sometimes just the turbo itself, and they can be overhauled if they are worn.
If you look at other brands of turbos, it should say in the specs if they are fitted with a carbon seal or not for draw through applications.
I have never bought from this site, it's just an example.
http://www.lowbugget.com/Schwitzer_Turbo.html
 
This is a cool build. I know there was some kind of draw thru set up for 440 mobile homes that used the Rayjay turbo. No idea what size that was, but it is very similar to this.

My question is do you need to build any kind of dam in the floor of the intake? Seems like the forced air/fuel mix would blow across the floor and mainly get sucked down one side of the intake causing a lean condition on the opposite side. Is that even an issue? I know, I'm thinking too much.
I don't think I'm going to see any lean conditions between cylinders on this setup. The charge is aimed at the floor as well as the opposite wall of the intake manifold, so hopefully it will just be bouncing and swirling around all over the place until it finds a cylinder.
 
I can't wait to see some road test data on this. I had a Houston RV turbo draw through setup on a 400 B engine in a 70 Polara a few years ago that really screamed. With a 750 carb it got 7.5 PSI and with the 950 it got 15 PSI, no wastegate. I built a 318 blow through that is still on the stand but ready to drop in something soon. I got married and built a shop and all kinds of stuff that got in the way of finishing that deal but soon...
 
If you are looking for ideas on pressure retard I just used a "Lean Burn" distributor which is a live shaft with no advance and added a vacuum pod to it. Basically the only timing will be what you set for initial. At cruise or part throttle and idle you set your vacuum advance to the total timing you want. When boost kicks in or you open up the throttle your timing retards. Just an idea....
 
Thanks, that's the exact setup I have on this engine. It does however also have some mechanical advance built in as well. I shortened the mechanical as well as the total amount of vac advance.
 
Any upddates? This is the first I have seen of this setup, and I would love to try it on my 72 swinger 318. I would think thiis setup would be the perfect addition for a low compression 5.2!
 
Two questions:

1. What is the purpose of the reed valves? Are the just to allow a more direct route for the intake when not under boost?

2. Is there any particular reason why the carb couldn't be mounted elsewhere? Seems like this sort of setup would be way simpler if you just made a carb>turbo transistion/adapter thing and just mounted them both wherever worked best. Would also allow for an intercooler if you wanted.
 
Two questions:

1. What is the purpose of the reed valves? Are the just to allow a more direct route for the intake when not under boost?

2. Is there any particular reason why the carb couldn't be mounted elsewhere? Seems like this sort of setup would be way simpler if you just made a carb>turbo transistion/adapter thing and just mounted them both wherever worked best. Would also allow for an intercooler if you wanted.

from what I know about draw through turbo's

1) reed valves are to allow air/fuel mixture a quicker route to intake
2) as number 1 says if you mount the carb elsewhere you would have to pump the crap out of the car to get it to start, ever started a crossram car when it hasen't been running in a week? same idea.
 
Two questions:

1. What is the purpose of the reed valves? Are the just to allow a more direct route for the intake when not under boost?

2. Is there any particular reason why the carb couldn't be mounted elsewhere? Seems like this sort of setup would be way simpler if you just made a carb>turbo transistion/adapter thing and just mounted them both wherever worked best. Would also allow for an intercooler if you wanted.

from what I know about draw through turbo's

1) reed valves are to allow air/fuel mixture a quicker route to intake
.

sort of, go back and read the earlier posts. "martin system" and the rotomaster / accel. the valves allow the carb to bypass the turbo and feed the engine directly at low speed and no boost
 
OK, just caught up on this thread, I NEED to do this to my 440 dart!!!!!!
 
Two questions:

1. What is the purpose of the reed valves? Are the just to allow a more direct route for the intake when not under boost?

2. Is there any particular reason why the carb couldn't be mounted elsewhere? Seems like this sort of setup would be way simpler if you just made a carb>turbo transistion/adapter thing and just mounted them both wherever worked best. Would also allow for an intercooler if you wanted.

From what I've researched, u can't run an intercooler. Its cools too much and drops the fuel out of the mixture and collects in the intercooler.
 
Yeah, this is a low boost deal, so no intercooler.
 
Have you got the POS runnin yet? lol
 
Cool Challenger. Caint wait to see the turbo car burnin rubber though.
 
This is an awesome build man, good job! Very nice fabrication skills
 
Cool Challenger. Caint wait to see the turbo car burnin rubber though.

"Burning up" more like it..... Yeah, I would like to paint it and get it on the road, but I have to get the Challenger done first.
 
Any thoughts on adding a water/meth injector system rather than retarding the timing on the high end? Or are we talking too little boost/hp for something like this to be worth while?
 
I'm not sure, using water/meth is an option, or even adding a waste gate, but the consensus seems to be that the turbo will produce low boost. Around 8 Psi
 
Cool Challenger. Caint wait to see the turbo car burnin rubber though.

Thanks Rod, the car is stripped, engine bay, inside floor and underneath painted. All suspension overhauled, painted and fitted, all brake lines replaced, front brakes modified from drum to disc with 4 piston calipers,steering box overhaul, trunk floor replaced. Rebuilt 360 fitted, radiator filled, Toploader 4 speed conversion . Lots of other parts overhauled and ready to fit to the car. Last panel work I need to do is replace both rear quarter panel lower sections and inner sections and rework some previous accident damage on the RH quarter panel, as well a a few other minor things. Then it's time for a few coats of B5 Blue.
All this on top of the customer cars I do and the Hemi Dart project that I'm starting a thread on this week.
 
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