318, E-Coil, GM ignition module, Chrysler Distributor...need wiring help!

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drewtx

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I've been reading all the threads, but can't seem to find a solution. I am running an E-coil, GM 4 position module and a Chrysler distributor. It fires right up runs perfectly with coil connected directly to the battery or starter relay hot wire. Obviously I cant keep it wired this way, as the key wont turn it off. I understanding the E-Coil needs a full 12V, I ran a relay so the original ignition wire would activate the relay. I got it started after several cranks, but clearly needs more voltage/amps to the coil. I'm scratching my head as I used a 10awg wire from the battery to the relay, and 10awg to the coil. I tried a double ground, a different trigger for the relay, and even tried another relay to make sure it wasn't defective, but no luck. I'm not sure how else to get that much voltage to the coil without cutting up the harness...which I don't want to do. Any ideas? Maybe my 30/40 amp 14V relay isn't powerful enough???
 
How do you know it "clearly" needs more voltage at the coil? Have you measure it at the coil with the relay on?

Also, please detail how you have the 30, 85, 86, and 87 pins wired. Where is the relay trigger coming from? Blue or brown wire from the ballast resistor?
 
Thanks for the quick response, greatly appreciated! I have it hooked up: 30 Power from battery (fused/unfused did not make a difference), 87 power to coil, 85 Switch and 86 ground. I was originally using the blue as the trigger with no success. I then hooked the trigger to the battery, still no luck.
 
Bypass the ballast! We all do, but in different ways!!
 
I wired the brown crank-wire to the trigger side of a relay, and battery power on the power side from the starter stud relayed to the coil.
During cranking the factory system works as normal, AND the ignition coil gets battery power off the starter cable. When crank is released,the starter quits and so does power to the coil thru the relay, and the relay de-energizes.
The Run side is as factory normal
There are a few milliseconds during the switchover from CRANK to RUN, when the coil gets no juice, but I never hear it in the engine.
Don't forget that the coil is pulling juice through the ammeter and bulkhead connector, so those connections have to be 100%. I spliced the ammeter wires thru the bulkhead, eliminating the spades.

I ran an E-core for about a year on just the factory 14Ga wiring.I don't think they need a lot of juice to get the job done.I thought about that and
Then I switched to the Accell sq.top, and upgraded the wiring thru another power relay, Cuz that yellow monster seems to like to pull some electrons. The literature that came with it IIRC said for use up to 6500, but mine has been happily buzzzzzzing along since about 2002, to over 7200.
 
The assumptions made by the OP are "clearly" troubling

Likely ALL you need to do is to tie the IGN1 and IGN2 together where the ballast "is/ was."

You have TWO contacts on the ignition switch, "run" (IGN 1) and the ballast bypass (IGN 2). This is traditionally blue and brown respectively, but not all years.

"RUN" (IGN 1) is HOT ONLY ONLY ONLY in the "run" position. IT IS NOT active in "start."

The brown "bypass" (IGN 2) is the ONLY source of ignition during cranking.

GET A VOLTMETER!!! Hook to coil+ which should be electrically the same as your HEI module power.

Check that voltage with key in the "run" position. Check that voltage in the "start" position (while cranking)

You have three possibilities as I see it:

1....You did NOT hook IGN1 / IGN2 together
2.....You did, but there is a vehicle wiring problem, such as a connector "bad connection" or bad ignition switch
3......Your made a mistake in your wiring even though (1) is what you intended
 
HERE is all you need for wiring size, l this is my "emergency" ignition which I built for an emergency / spare, ad have used several times, now to fire up used engines. The wiring is Radio Shack clip leads, likely no18!!!!1

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Here is "all about" the last time, "just the other day."

LMFAO Anybody figure out what this is?

That's right.........that's a 4bbl on top of a beer keg on a Magnum

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When I hooked my brown and blue together, The starter didn't want to shut off, until I took my foot off the clutch. Then every time I stepped on the clutch,the starter jumped back to life. That was a hoot
 
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I could see how one might think that, but up until the jumper went in, everything had been fine.My clutch sw was the NSS for the factory relay. And by hooking the crank and run together, the power was of course feeding to the factory start relay. So everytime I stepped on the clutch it closed the ground to that relay, and then the relay did it's job. I thought of putting a diode in that line but in the end I just relayed it cuz I had one. And then it was all good.
 
Well the thing is, the start wire and the brown bypass "should" be coming from separate switch contacts..............
 
Am I confused; is the crank circuit not the brown wire, and is the Run circuit not the blue wire?
So yes those two are normally separate circuits, in the factory wiring, only crossing paths at the dual-ballast resistor, normally feeding battery voltage directly to the coil during cranking, and a reduced voltage during run, while simultaneously feeding the ECU the correct voltage, or nearly so in both situations; a pretty ingenious feat to be sure.
But the E-core coil I had didn't want the reduced voltage, and IIRC I was still using the old Orange box at the time. In any case, I was on a mission to get the same battery voltage to the E-core under both Start and Run.
 
As said, run the ign2 brown (crank) & ign1 blue (run) circuits together in the engine bay & run from that T to the coil/B terminal on the HEI as they are T'd in (67's) pic. Since you are using the relay, confirm (1) you are wired right so when the key is on that it is feeding the brown/blue T (& anything else being powered off of the relay) (2) wired right will mean that that circuit (& everything else powered from the relay) goes dead when the ign key is shut off.
 
The ignition switch has these outputs all separate contacts:

ACC, hot in "run" and "acc"
RUN, hot only in the "run" position, goes dead during cranking
START, normally YELLOW, hot only in crank--fires solenoid
BYPASS, normally BROWN, hot only in crank--bypasses coil ballast and provides ignition voltage during crank

I'm told there can be trouble in ignition switches, contacts wear out the insulator inside and start to "waltz around" in there.
 
Big thanks for all the help on this! I did not have the brown and blue terminals connected together. I connected both to the + on the coil and it fired right up. I also hooked up the relay accordingly, and it also fired right up. I must say I wasn't familiar with the IGN 1 and 2 arrangement. As a theft deterrent, I was going to make a toggle kill switch hidden under the dash throwing the ground to the relay, so it wouldn't start when not grounded through the switch. This way I would have only one wire going to the swith, the other toggle terminal grounded under the dash. Is this a bad idea? Any better ideas on this? I'm done with alarms. I have an Earl's fuel line shut off valve, battery disconnect hidden in the wheel well, and an NRG quick disconnect steering wheel with a quick lock hub. The toggle switch would be something easier than the others. I guess you could say I'm a bit paranoid, but for good reason.
 
I put my ignition coil on the apron with about a 30" lead. I take it with me into the Motel. Of course like you, I have other disables. I leave the doors unlocked and an electric fencer under the seat. I've never heard screams in the night..............
 
drewtx said:
Big thanks............... As a theft deterrent, I was going to make a toggle kill switch hidden under the dash throwing the ground to the relay,.......... I have an Earl's fuel line shut off valve, battery disconnect hidden in the wheel well, and an NRG quick disconnect steering wheel........
Click to expand...

I see nothing at all wrong with any and all of that. Only thing about some sort of "cell based" alarm, is if they show up with a wrecker/ roll back.
 
Depending on your neighborhood and how desireable your vehicle is your paranoia may be justified. If I wanted the absolute I would put in a GPS like the cops do on TV to track a suspects' movements in the hope he revisits the corpse. & that is if they get by all your current traps & either get it started (not likely) or they tow it off. I ain't up on all the ignition devices (you are using a few choices) & actually the one I like is the fuel shut off & my thought is to leave the ign be so they don't messup anything while hot wiring it & route enough fuel line so they get a few blocks away to a main heavily traveled road then it stalls out! then they have to skedaddle out of there. I ain't sure how to go about venting the line downstream from the shutoff so all that fuel keeps flowing forward toward the pump, maybe when I get something worth protecting I will have a solution by then. this one would have been good enough to protect.

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