318 Engine Running Like Crap - Help Needed

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I cant keep it running to get a running point dwell. But I just tried to grab one by simply turning it over without the rotor on it. I don't know how accurate that would be but it sure did fluctuate. Started at 40 degrees, dropped to 30 degrees (was set at), jumped back to 35 degrees.

I just read this again and you have to disregard that. The dwell cant be jumping like that.
 
I cant keep it running to get a running point dwell. But I just tried to grab one by simply turning it over without the rotor on it. I don't know how accurate that would be but it sure did fluctuate. Started at 40 degrees, dropped to 30 degrees (was set at), jumped back to 35 degrees.
Then get the distributor cam on the high point and measure the point gap with a feeler gauge. Should be like .019" - .022" Make sure the screws securing the points are not loose, first.
 
What is on the rubbing block of the points? In the picture it looks fuzzy. Grease?
 
Don't buy any parts yet. Read post #9 which will eliminate some of the suspects.
 
Looks to be the points rubbing block is worn darn near flat....maybe a quick look see.
 
I started this morning by changing the fuel filter. Then checked vacuum hoses and checked carb bolts (thanks post 8), all good. :thumbsup: I then went through carb tests, all indications is good fuel pressure, no float seat leaks and get fuel when manually pushing throttle, plus choke is not engaged and I'm not getting a rich fuel burn when it is running. :thumbsup:
Those were easy diagnosis items. It now comes down to ignition and the backfire is a good indication that fuel was not being burned in the cylinder. I changed the coil because it was old and the distributor was new. No difference. I pulled the distributor cap, cap and rotor were pristine as per post and pics earlier in the day. I did notice the points looked like there was arcing (see earlier post with pics).
I got tired and frustrated. Tomorrow I'll go back at it with new points and condenser.
 
I'm in this camp. Maybe a ballast issue also? How do the point contact pads look?

The contact pad has a brighter metal spot on 1/3 of the contact. It looks normal wear to me, not an arcing type burn. Check out post #18 the arcing on the backside of the points is not normal. I didn't post the pic,but that is my distributor.
 
69,
I hope for your sake it is points/cond. A simple fix.
However, seeing the engine has 700 miles on it, I am wondering about the dreaded lobe/lifter failure scenario....
 
Then get the distributor cam on the high point and measure the point gap with a feeler gauge. Should be like .019" - .022" Make sure the screws securing the points are not loose, first.

^^^^^^^ Note 'the high point'
The point gap should be .017'' ---- The dwell angle should be 32 degrees with the vacuum advance hose disconnected. The points in #25 last pic look slightly open, they should be closed. But pictures can be deceiving.
 
Noticed very little grease on the rub block of the points needs a good dollop of it or the plastic wears down and you loose the gap .
 
69,
I hope for your sake it is points/cond. A simple fix.
However, seeing the engine has 700 miles on it, I am wondering about the dreaded lobe/lifter failure scenario....
The carb has 700 miles on it, the distributor has about 300 miles on it.
The cam has about 6000 miles on it and the engine has about 40,000 on it since a rebuild.
 
Have you checked the tuneup yet? The point gap in particular?
 
I bought a “new” rebuilt distributor a year ago. Points block wore down in 500 miles. I don’t trust the replacement points with the white/clear rubbing blocks. Look like a plastic that would melt at temperature.
Go to ebay and buy some NOS Mopar or Echlin brand.
 
It's alive, it's alive! Points and condenser. Running like a charm. Very busy last two days and got back to it this morning. I checked the points gap and it was good, however the points seemed to have an arcing mark on them (pic in post #18). In the end I believe it was a bad condenser, but because I changed them both at the same time I can't be guaranteed. I think the key info was the backfire symptom, a tell tale sign I have unexploded gas leaving the cylinder (intermittent spark).
Thanks to all for your help.
 
It's alive, it's alive! Points and condenser. Running like a charm. Very busy last two days and got back to it this morning. I checked the points gap and it was good, however the points seemed to have an arcing mark on them (pic in post #18). In the end I believe it was a bad condenser, but because I changed them both at the same time I can't be guaranteed. I think the key info was the backfire symptom, a tell tale sign I have unexploded gas leaving the cylinder (intermittent spark).
Thanks to all for your help.
Good for you! Remember: go back to the basics and never overlook the obvious. I hope your new condenser is a good one. Many new ones aren't.
 
It's alive, it's alive! Points and condenser. Running like a charm. Very busy last two days and got back to it this morning. I checked the points gap and it was good, however the points seemed to have an arcing mark on them (pic in post #18). In the end I believe it was a bad condenser, but because I changed them both at the same time I can't be guaranteed. I think the key info was the backfire symptom, a tell tale sign I have unexploded gas leaving the cylinder (intermittent spark).
Thanks to all for your help.

Triple R is probably not going to agree with me, Lol. But in my opinion, now's the time for an electronic ignition upgrade. Easy Pezy. Give that points distributor to your 3rd Cousin. :D










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Triple R is probably not going to agree with me, Lol. But in my opinion, now's the time for an electronic ignition upgrade. Easy Pezy. Give that points distributor to your 3rd Cousin. :D.
Why not? Points do work. I even upgraded Vixen to a nice electronic ignition not too long ago. Points ran fine, but I already had the electronic distributor which I rebuilt and recurved and I also had the harness. All I lacked was the ECU and I got one and did it. Runs good.
 
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