318 Headers - 1971

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AzDUSTER

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Hi - Any recommendations on headers for a 318 that fit well ?

The headers I have now would have to be hammered down so much I don't think it is worth it.

Very tight on both side especially next to the steering gear.

Thanks
 
Street or High Horsepower Street ? I did a article that got posted in the "How TO" forum. It is on a 273. The slickest and easiest header set I ever installed. TTi shortys. Even their long tubes are the best in the market.Yes they cost allot but will be the last you will ever buy. I have sets out on the street for over 20+ years and they still look like new.
 
The cheepies last about a year, then either blow out the merges or the gaskets and the thin flanged ones won't keep torque on the screws, so you are out there several time in a summer retightening them.
My TTIs have kept their torque over 10 years and have never blown the flange gaskets. At about the 5 year mark, 50,000 miles the uncoated TTIs started leaking in the merges, on the top-side,no surprise. . This was on a DD, 4 seasons.
So they are worth at least, oops don't put a number on it they might be listening, are worth a lil more than the cheepies that's for sure.
Mine fit pretty good,not perfect, but were easy to "adjust". 68 Barracuda with an EDDIE headed 71-360, a 70 Duster K,73 Dart steering, 1.03 Bars, A833, shortie filter, power steering and brakes and mini-starter. They accepted the regular starter as well, and it was not held captive, altho it was tricky getting that fat-boy outta there..
They also fit on my winter-motor; a stock-headed 73 teener with a 904.
The only point of interference in my chassis was at the idler-arm ball-stud at full steering lock, but in all fairness. I had leveled the engine with a fat washer on the P-side.
All-in-all I was impressed
 
I did hooker super comp full length on my small block, so far they have been great. My pocket book just couldn't do the tti but definitely would have been my first choice if allowed. It is a little tight on the steering side, but I have manual steering so no custom bending was necessary. The shortie oil filter is just about a must and I did a mini starter that made life a lot easier.. the fat boy would have been a four letter word unleasher... Got one at the auto parts store for a 93 Dakota with a 318 and bolted right up and lit it off quick. No interferences..
 
Doug's D453's. Fit just as well as the TTI's on any given car. Meaning, on some cars the TTI's will fit better, on others the Doug's will fit better, and you won't know which yours is until you install them.

Also, I just installed, and removed, a set of TTI shorties on my Duster. I started with Doug's and went back to them after doing the TTI shorty install. The Doug's are nicer. Yes, I ended up adding a few dimples for torsion bar clearance on the Doug's. But I run 1.12" torsion bars. If I ran stock bars I wouldn't have needed to touch them. I also have spool mounts, so no shimming the engine mounts to adjust clearance. The TTI shorties would have still needed dimples in the headpipes to clear my torsion bars and the inspection plate on my 4 speed. And possibly the z-bar, but I didn't get that far before I yanked them back out.

I covered the install in my build thread. My "new" '74 Duster- or why I need a project like a hole in the head
 
The cheepies last about a year, then either blow out the merges or the gaskets and the thin flanged ones won't keep torque on the screws, so you are out there several time in a summer retightening them.
My TTIs have kept their torque over 10 years and have never blown the flange gaskets. At about the 5 year mark, 50,000 miles the uncoated TTIs started leaking in the merges, on the top-side,no surprise. . This was on a DD, 4 seasons.
So they are worth at least, oops don't put a number on it they might be listening, are worth a lil more than the cheepies that's for sure.
Mine fit pretty good,not perfect, but were easy to "adjust". 68 Barracuda with an EDDIE headed 71-360, a 70 Duster K,73 Dart steering, 1.03 Bars, A833, shortie filter, power steering and brakes and mini-starter. They accepted the regular starter as well, and it was not held captive, altho it was tricky getting that fat-boy outta there..
They also fit on my winter-motor; a stock-headed 73 teener with a 904.
The only point of interference in my chassis was at the idler-arm ball-stud at full steering lock, but in all fairness. I had leveled the engine with a fat washer on the P-side.
All-in-all I was impressed
Thanks ... I will get a set of these !
 
Doug's D453's. Fit just as well as the TTI's on any given car. Meaning, on some cars the TTI's will fit better, on others the Doug's will fit better, and you won't know which yours is until you install them.

Also, I just installed, and removed, a set of TTI shorties on my Duster. I started with Doug's and went back to them after doing the TTI shorty install. The Doug's are nicer. Yes, I ended up adding a few dimples for torsion bar clearance on the Doug's. But I run 1.12" torsion bars. If I ran stock bars I wouldn't have needed to touch them. I also have spool mounts, so no shimming the engine mounts to adjust clearance. The TTI shorties would have still needed dimples in the headpipes to clear my torsion bars and the inspection plate on my 4 speed. And possibly the z-bar, but I didn't get that far before I yanked them back out.

I covered the install in my build thread. My "new" '74 Duster- or why I need a project like a hole in the head
Thanks ... I will check these out.
 
Oh yeah and then there's the question of does your engine need headers? And does it need long-tubes?.
It really depends on the combo
Long tube gears are the winner 99% of the time.
 
Long tube gears are the winner 99% of the time.
I sorta agree with that, But when you have a stock type cam, then I believe headers are optional, and most of the time gears also are optional,too.
Most, if not all, of us know how headers work. But not all understand what goes on during the overlap period. With bigger cams bordering on race-cam sizes, this period can be thought of as it's own distinct cycle,activated only by headers, and it can be extremely advantageous. However, if your big-cammed streeter is stifled with hiway gears, then you only just get into it at the top of first gear. The only benefit that 292 is for you then is the radical idle, and the surge in power beginning up near 5000rpm, somewhere near 50 mph with 3.23s.
But with a 252/112 type cam,or smaller, the overlap is so small, as to be very weak.Sure the long tubes can still bring a boost in torque in the lower rpms, but again the effect is weak, and I wouldn't waste money on TTIs for the few footpounds they might wake up.Adding a couple of hundred Rs to the TC will net a much bigger boost.
As to gears, I'm 100% with you; for a streeter you almost can't have too many, and the closer together the better. It would be really nice to have two or three of them between zero and 60 mph, but that is just not realistic until you have 5 or more gears in the trans.
As to rear gears, as soon as the starter gear comes in at over 10:1 with a M/T, or 9:1 with an auto, you are in the ball park. As soon as the starter gets over 13, it's into race territory and if second is too far away in a streeter, it sux.
So gearing is always a challenge with just 3 speeds in the trans.
But again, with a stock type engine, and just 3 gears in the trans, hi-perf rear gears is not necessarily better; it depends on the combo.
But Shorties, on the other hand, are like sewer dumps to a lo-po engine. Your street engine with a mild cam, might not ever get to an rpm where the headers work, but at least they let the exhaust out better than a log. So in a particular application where long-tubes either do not exist, or would be hard to fit, the shorties could be a good option. Like fitting a 360 into an EarlyA, with a small cam. The weight to cubes is already quite good so just a small cam could get yo into 300 hp pretty quick. And then the W/P is looking good. In this case shorties is all you need. And since the vehicles weight is nearly 400 pounds less than a laterA, it won't need a lotta gear to get motoring.

So where you say 99%, IDK, Ima wanting to agree if you wanna go fast/quick.
But for average Jo with a 4bbl teener,sucking hot underhood air, and a modest cam,IDK; maybe 20% stock type logs, 20%hi-flo exhausts,30% shorties, and the rest long-tubes or other; Just tossing number out there.
 
Have Dougs on my car( were on it when i got the car)
I actually like them better than any TTI header i have had. Coating is nicer, plugs are easier to get to, and they are less money. Fit good.69 Dart
On any build under probably 500-525 horse they would be my choice after now seeing a set.
I have had tti step headers and w5 headers before, among others.
 
Thx for the research TM

I didn't see what size engine that was on, did anyone?
Ima guessing it was a 340
That HEV4550 cam has these specs 277/283/106 with lifts of .597/.613 with the 1.5 arms. The .050s are listed as 245/250. I installed it at 104.5/with a 63* ICA and got this

Static compression ratio of 10.2:1.
Effective stroke is 2.59 inches.
Your dynamic compression ratio is 8.19:1 .
Your dynamic cranking pressure is 164.83 PSI.
V/P (Volume to Pressure Index) is 133..................................................133

I like that fast-rate cam.
In an aluminum headed 360 it might look like this;
Static compression ratio of 10.8:1.
Effective stroke is 2.84 inches.
Your dynamic compression ratio is 8.77:1 .
Your dynamic cranking pressure is 180.05 PSI.
V/P (Volume to Pressure Index) is 157..................................................157

I would retard the cam to 109, and boost the Scr and it might come out to this
Static compression ratio of 11.2:1.
Effective stroke is 2.73 inches.
Your dynamic compression ratio is 8.78:1 .
Your dynamic cranking pressure is 180.32 PSI.
V/P (Volume to Pressure Index) is 151..................................................151
Gave up some VP, gained about 100rpm at the power peak, and extended the operating range about a 100 as well, and maybe picked up a couple of ponies.
 
Thx for the research TM

I didn't see what size engine that was on, did anyone?
Ima guessing it was a 340


I looked back, I didn't see what it was. Interesting comparison though.
 
I wouldn't do shorty headers if I got paid. Total waste in most general cases.

Doug's or TTI would be the ones.
I have TTI on the wife's car and for my W5 Duster coming up.
 
I wouldn't do shorty headers if I got paid. Total waste in most general cases.

Doug's or TTI would be the ones.
I have TTI on the wife's car and for my W5 Duster coming up.


Haha. It was easier to throw the W5 headers on a 70 Duster, than it was the put the 1 5/8 to 1 3/4, step headers on an eddie headed stroker in the same car.
You will like the W5 tubes. They will support a lot of power.
 
Haha. It was easier to throw the W5 headers on a 70 Duster, than it was the put the 1 5/8 to 1 3/4, step headers on an eddie headed stroker in the same car.
You will like the W5 tubes. They will support a lot of power.
Thanks! The wife's TTI fitment was good and easy. 1 dent. The TTI W5 headers have a good size tube. Brett Miller ported the heads but the heads fell short. Common W5 issues. A little epoxy and it's all good to go. I have another set of heads to gamble on later.
I'd like to get into the 9's. I don't think I'll go deep. But a 9.90 will do.
Next spring I will start getting the '71 Duster into the "Lightening Up" program.
 
Best , if you can call it that "still beats the **** out of stock manifolds" of cheepy ones are Hedman,Patriot,Hooker which seem a hair smaller port flange that seals better on a 318 head.
All un tuned
I like the hedmans which have a ball socket collector & patriot which hang a hair higher off the ground than the headmans...still they go under the center link.

Doug's steel @450 bucks fit better than the above listed...then there are the tti which are a step header @700 that will make more power. Both are tuned headers.

And if you really want to put it all to the tires....you get hooker 1 3/4 for 550ish
 
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