318 mopar Carter carb

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Floats are stuck open or the needles aren't sealing. Tap the carb with a screwdriver handle and see if the floats are stuck. It may just need adjusting.
 
Is the carb under warrente or new enough to return for replacement.

I would say either the float or needle is the issue.

Or if your pump is supplying way too much pressure
 
Dana67Dart said:
Is the carb under warrente or new enough to return for replacement.

I would say either the float or needle is the issue.

Or if your pump is supplying way too much pressure
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Thats a good point about the fuel pressure I didn't think of that. What kinda of pump are you using op? Mechanical or electric? I think IIRC those carbs only require about 5-7 lbs
 
run that 'plug' back into the jug...but yeah, those float are WAY too high. Probably under the fuel level. Bad seat or bent to hell float tab.
 
Iwannabefast318 said:
I have bad spelling deal w it
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Hard to answer a question if no one can understand the reply.

I asked if the carb was new or under warrantee and you answer about fixing it. And buying a new one.

Please answer the questions asked rather then being defensive.

I too, am a bad speller and I have fat fingers and spell check many times changes what I wrote.
 
Dana67Dart said:
Hard to answer a question if no one can understand the reply.

I asked if the carb was new or under warrantee and you answer about fixing it. And buying a new one.

Please answer the questions asked rather then being defensive.

I too, am a bad speller and I have fat fingers and spell check many times changes what I wrote.
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Ok so first off that is mb, I have mental **** that affects my perspective or so I'm told, as far as warranty..it's an Amazon carb I got for 80bucks, I don't think I could take it back, and it just now did this td
 
Do you want to try to repair the carb? Diagnosing it is not very difficult, and fixing it is fairly streight forward.

Worst case you buy a new carb.
 
Not really.

Go to mymopar.com and going the factory service manual for your car.

Look for the fuel section and read up on how it functions.

Also look for YouTube videos for Carter bbd rebuilding.

You don't necessarily have to rebuild the entire carb just need to find out why the needle valve will not stop the flow of gas.

The most complicated part is keeping everything oriented correctly, like that rod goes in that hole with that pin on it, kind of thing. Photos and video will be VERY helpfully.

Also there are check balls (ball bearings) that can fall out if you tip things just the wrong way.

I noticed you don't have a fuel flter and it is very posable that a piece of debris got in the needle seat and is holding the float open.

Let me know what you find.

Just want to remind you that you have an old car and with old cars come unique problems that MANY mechanics today have never seen or even heard of. You obviously can wrench so now let's get your trouble shooting skills honed in.
 
By the way the carb you have is a newer version not like the ones on our 67 to 76 cars. same basic principals but the design is different.
 
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I also wanna do a turbo setup later...like later later, so is the efi route a good way to go I found a kit for 900bucks that has timing,fuel ratios, and tells me just general specs of the engine that would help with boost, if I saved for that would that be better than running a carb since it's simple and parts don't really wear out..like honestly good idea or not?? And I would definitely mess up my carb trying to fix it since I can only learn by experience, that means messing up and paying to fix it repeatedly. Idk just thoughts
 
I dont know who told you to use teflon tape on a carburetor inlet, but there’s your problem.
T-tape in the fuel inlet needle. All too common. Stupid move.
 
Tooljunkie said:
I dont know who told you to use teflon tape on a carburetor inlet, but there’s your problem.
T-tape in the fuel inlet needle. All too common. Stupid move.
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NOT a stupid anything! We do not know if the needle is open from a blockage or not. The guy is learning, we ALL made mistakes in the past. if tape is applied correctly it will not get into the fuel line.
 
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Iwannabefast318 said:
So I got a few problems it seems with the carb, wanted to know what you guys think before I buy a new one.
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You need to set the float or replace it if it's got a hole in it. If that doesnt cure it... It's the needle & seat, they all have them. Rebuild kit would contain one.
Those are a decent carburetor once dialed in.
 
Iwannabefast318 said:
I also wanna do a turbo setup later...like later later, so is the efi route a good way to go I found a kit for 900bucks that has timing,fuel ratios, and tells me just general specs of the engine that would help with boost, if I saved for that would that be better than running a carb since it's simple and parts don't really wear out..like honestly good idea or not?? And I would definitely mess up my carb trying to fix it since I can only learn by experience, that means messing up and paying to fix it repeatedly. Idk just thoughts
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this is just my opionion...

Do not get too eager to do anything till you have a running driving car. as for EFI being simpler... there are so many things that can go wrong that takes an electrical engineering degree and a computer degree to figure out you are safer to stay with mechanical things for now.

get it driving, enjoy it, then decide if you want to drop $2000 to $3000 into a turbo.

speaking from experience, when I was younger I had a 63 Econoline van, I wanted more power so I swapped a V8 into it. I learned a ton doing this (by myself and no internet to reference or search parts) but in the end I had $5000.00 in receipts and a shitty looking crappy van.

My next was a 56 for Pickup. Engine, trans, rear-end swap, 4 wheel disks created from scratch, serpentine belt (they were just starting to be put in cars so no kits), tilt column, power brakes. In the end I had $15,000 in receipts and a shitty 56 ford pickup.

I have had a Pinto, VW Bug, 68 mustang there's another $6,000

so all in all if I had just bought the new 88 Mustang GT I would have had a cool clean car to drive and saved $10,000

Remember this is all 80s dollars so $25,000 in the 80s is about $60,000 today.

Granted I would not have taught myself a **** ton about working on cars, but I might not have been so preoccupied and finished college with a degree in Mechanical Engineering and been sitting pretty today rather than wondering how the hell I'm going to pay for retirement!
 
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