318 to 440 dart.

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ProSport said:
On my current street car I went with a nice motor plate from AR-Engineering, 400/500" low deck, and 1.75" B-body underchassis headers. The motor plate allows more room to work on headers and starter but it does rattle the car more on the street, which doesn't bother me. I also cut the factory motor mount stands off the K-member so they're gone and out of the way.

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Man that looks nice great job
 
ProSport said:
On my current street car I went with a nice motor plate from AR-Engineering, 400/500" low deck, and 1.75" B-body underchassis headers. The motor plate allows more room to work on headers and starter but it does rattle the car more on the street, which doesn't bother me. I also cut the factory motor mount stands off the K-member so they're gone and out of the way.
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Nice job! I have the same setup except mine's a 451 ;) and I used bushings as shown on the BBD tech pages. Not so much vibration (but still plenty!)

P5250223.jpg

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These are very nice but when I look for parts not much luck on a 65 cuda everything is 67 and up I did find motor mounts from Schumacher
 
Bobbyd173rd said:
So your saying the deep square sump might work I didn't have much clearance on my 63 dodge b body
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This pic is not the greatest, but it shows the oil pan that was in the 66 plymouth B-Body short block I bought. Also this pic is with the TTI 2x3-1/2 headers installed in my 73 dodge dart

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DrCharles said:
Nice job! I have the same setup except mine's a 451 ;) and I used bushings as shown on the BBD tech pages. Not so much vibration (but still plenty!)
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I like that! Is that a kit or did you have to make it? A few months ago I saw a local Duster with that type of mount on the HDK k-member but I figured it was all custom made.
That has to help with vibrations compared to being mounted solid.
 
ProSport said:
I like that! Is that a kit or did you have to make it? A few months ago I saw a local Duster with that type of mount on the HDK k-member but I figured it was all custom made.
That has to help with vibrations compared to being mounted solid.
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I had to make all the pieces except the bushings, but it's not hard to do with angle stock.

P5250224.jpg
 
On the oil pan. I used a 1967-70 CHRYSLER 383 440 NEW YORKER NEWPORT PLYMOUTH DODGE 187 PART 300. Sorry, the picture is small

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carguy47 said:
On the oil pan. I used a 1967-70 CHRYSLER 383 440 NEW YORKER NEWPORT PLYMOUTH DODGE 187 PART 300. Sorry, the picture is small

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You have to watch on the oil pans. Some cars the steering arm will hit even if the notch is there. A little modification and it works ok or the motor may need shimmed up a little.
 
Thanks for all the info in this thread.... Just about to start building a 440/6 for a 70-72 Swinger.
 
Nice car 440dart1971. You my want to put a Schumacher torque strap on with the motor mounts.
 
It's kind of hard to weld an aluminum motor plate to steel frame rails :D
(Or were you referring to welding the steel brackets to the rails... I'm a better driller/bolter than welder, and it's desirable to keep the motor attached to the frame!)

Also I wanted a little bit of vibration isolation rather than everything mounted solid...
 
ProSport said:
On my current street car I went with a nice motor plate from AR-Engineering, 400/500" low deck, and 1.75" B-body underchassis headers. The motor plate allows more room to work on headers and starter but it does rattle the car more on the street, which doesn't bother me. I also cut the factory motor mount stands off the K-member so they're gone and out of the way.

View attachment 1715003297
Click to expand...

Awesome car Bob. Hey wear did you get the firewall plugs from?
 
Just chrome hole-plugs from local hardware store. My buddy made aluminum covers for the large holes and the wiper cover.
 
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