340 Rebuild "Musts"

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Hey! I have a buddy who's a rocket surgeon..........................................
 
BTW, OP, are you familiar with the difference between static compression ratio and dynamic compression ratio? If not, read up on it. All the stuff about maximum CR and pump fuels and cams is all related. And it directly ties in with how you want to use your engine; the application details are the key to a lot of decisions, and any good engine builder should ask you that up front.
 
nm9stheham said:
BTW, OP, are you familiar with the difference between static compression ratio and dynamic compression ratio? If not, read up on it. All the stuff about maximum CR and pump fuels and cams is all related. And it directly ties in with how you want to use your engine; the application details are the key to a lot of decisions, and any good engine builder should ask you that up front.
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Good advise.
 
yellow rose said:
Can't do a custom cam. He too new. He needs to call the rocket surgeons at summit or go to a forum and let them pick a cam.

Har-Dee-harr-harr.
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Oh he can do that and alot more lol........ And YR you are right in that Static Compression is often less than what was "thought" to be number expected...... Drivability, performance, and sour grapes can all come from a lack of....
Does the slug need to be .050 out the hole? Who the heck knows..... It might need to be an inch since NONE of us know the measurements.... I can tell you this. Even as a novice builder you still have a certain expectation and can easily be accomplished. But short yourself on compression and everything else can just barrel roll on you.... Been there, done that, and it sucked ***....

Wish I had the internet when I got into this. Things would have been done different when I built my first motors. And that's the value of this thread... Lot's of info.... Like everything else in life take it all in and pick your line.

JW
 
SLOPAR72 said:
Oh he can do that and alot more lol........ And YR you are right in that Static Compression is often less than what was "thought" to be number expected...... Drivability, performance, and sour grapes can all come from a lack of....
Does the slug need to be .050 out the hole? Absolutley not. Who the heck knows..... It might need to be an inch NAW since NONE I think its safe to say he has the "typical" small Mopar dimensions to deal with of us know the measurements.... I can tell you this. Even as a novice builder you still have a certain expectation and can easily be accomplished. But short yourself on compression and everything else can just barrel roll on you.... Been there, done that, and it sucked ***....

Wish I had the internet when I got into this.This I agree on, internet is a great source but tough to wade through the BS at times. Things would have been done different when I built my first motors. Hind sight is always 20/20. And that's the value of this thread... Lot's of info...And lots of mis-info. Like everything else in life take it all in and pick your line. 100% spot on.

JW
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Mountain out of a goddamn mole hill. J.Rob
 
Yup. Eastern CT.
I'm out of this one. Dealing with YR when he's on his high horse just isn't worth the effort.
 
moper said:
Yup. Eastern CT.
I'm out of this one. Dealing with YR when he's on his high horse just isn't worth the effort.
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Looks like the OP has left the building anyways. Probably all this super secret squirrel **** some were spewing scared him off and rightly so.

If your watching OP send me a PM, shipping isn't that much to my place, had an engine shipped to me from P.E.I. for less than $150.00 one way.

YR (Young & the Restless) has a very familiar posting style. Reminds me of M.S. J.Rob
 
yellow rose said:
Yes. You get half of the difference.

So, if you have a 2.125 pin and take it to 2.00 you get about .060 depending how well the crank is indexed to start with.
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If You are grinding on center w/the original crankpin axis the stroke is the same, if
You offset grind the pin, You get half the amount removed in throw, but exactly the
amount in stroke, compression would be entirely dependent on the rod/piston used
if non OE pieces are employed.
 
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Check the Decks, You may get away with just honing it. Use torque plates, that is the Must. Check or resize the rods with new ARP bolts. Balance it, another Must. Get a great valve job, J or X heads. 15 degree top cut, 45 seat cut. 60-70 degree bottom cut, center seat on valve face, smooth out the transition in the bowl, use good SS valves and I would only run single springs and good seals on the street. 400 hp? Who cares you will be happy!
 
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