360 build ideas??

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Meet-Joe-"Dart"

Meet-Joe-"Dart"

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Ok just getting into my 360 build-up, thought I might ask for some thoughts/suggestions on how to build it. 70 Dodge Dart street driven.

I think I'm going to replace the 904 tranny with a nicely built 904 I found locally for sale. 3000 stall converter. The block (1970 dated block) 30 over, grind the crank, re-size rods (ARP wave-loc bolts), balancing everything. Haven't picked a cam yet (Comp Cams, the shop is gonna recommend something, I like a little lumpy but also an enjoyable street car) I think Keith Black flat top pistons (Hypereutectic)


Eddy Magnum heads(assembled), roller lifters, Crane roller rockers, Eddy Performer Rpm intake(not the Air-Gap too long to warm the car up... from what I read here?) Doug's ceramic headers(on order only5-6 weeks to arrive:thumbdow:)
I already have a new Eddy 650 carb on the car(I'll keep that) Mopar dist, stock balancer, that's about it. Some of these items I have already some I am just intending to use but haven't decided yet. Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated. :)


 
Yea, purchase new rods since there most likely going to be cheaper and certainly stronger.

Whats the gear ratio. For cam selection purposes.

What carb style? AFB or AVS?
(AFB 600 cfm - AVS 650 cfm )
 
JMO, a 650 will end up being too small on an engine with the parts you have listed.
 
I think I'm gonna run 3.91 gears... I havn't done the rear end yet but I am gathering info from this forum on what to do. The carb (AVS 650) I'll probably keep at least initially and then decide on a bigger one if needed.
 
The 650 will be lite on the top end by maybe 10 HP, cam dependent of course. It'll provide a better throttle response and a few lbs. of torque down low over the 750. If you don't cam it to heavy, it'll be fine.
 
Ok good info on the carb... I am also going with a hydr. cam and I think I'll pick up a Dakota starter to fit with those headers ($146.00 -new Bosch)
 
If your running a 360 .30 over depending on the amount of HP you want the 904 might be a bit light for the job, if you wanted to be safe id look around for a 727 (rated for 600 HP) a 360 .30 over could easly do 400 HP and me personally would rather be more safe then be paying some money to buy a 904 than having to buy a 727 some where down the road. (my opinion that is)

16 years old and still learning so thats from my knowledge on my research!
 
16 years old huh? OK, time for you to do some home work on just what a 904 can hold and know this, the 904 replaced the 727 in drag racing efforts.
600 HP rating huh? Blew that one away a long time ago with my uncles. And with 904's.


You have A LOT to learn before giving advice like this.

45 years old and still learning. Building racing these iron rides since I was 18. I still consider myself someone with a lot to learn.
 
Me too rumblefish.
I have been building Small Blocks' since 1997....so in reality 14 years.
I do not proclaim to "know it all" and honestly believe I have alot more to learn.

I do know what works at or under the 500hp level Naturally Aspirated...and have worked directly in more than a few different Extreme Performance 4 cyl. efforts.

Theory and Reality are (2) seperate things that only assembling and testing a combination can illustrate......and I have seen 904's at the track absorbing 700+ hp repeatedly....its all about frictional/rotational mass....and keeping the fluid cool.

For this 360 build...here is what I have to add:

Use a timing chain tensioner P5007709...
I recommend being sane about the camshaft duration you choose.
For a 99% street driven car, I would recommend staying under 274* advertised.....220* @ .050....lift of around .500"...and appropriate springs.

Make sure this engine is backed with True 2.50" exhaust minimum....anything less would be restrictive.

A wide band jetted/tuned 750 Holley Double Pumper would seriously wake it up but your carb selection will suffice to 400ish hp properly tuned.

:burnout:
 
Ok see I'm going with Eddy Magnum heads, RPM Air Gap intake, Probe Forged Pistons, Cloyes Chain, Eddy water pump, alum rad, Comp Cams (20-224-4), comp lifters, TRW roller rockers, Felpro gaskets. I'm definitely getting the shop to do the short block. Probably long block. How hard are these assembled heads to set up???
 

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Meet-Joe-"Dart";1583409 said:
Ok see I'm going with Eddy Magnum heads, RPM Air Gap intake, Probe Forged Pistons, Cloyes Chain, Eddy water pump, alum rad, Comp Cams (20-224-4), comp lifters, TRW roller rockers, Felpro gaskets. I'm definitely getting the shop to do the short block. Probably long block. How hard are these assembled heads to set up???
Click to expand...

I can't believe you took the time to lay that all out for a picture.
 
Sweeeeeeet shot! THANK YOU, love it!!!!!!!!
 
Put your money to good use. Go to a high end shop with a good reputation, ask lots of questions. Don't go in saying you want this and that. Explainr you application and end goal and ask what they recommend. They do this every day. My experance. I went to "THE"engine shop with a list of parts I wanted to re-build my #'s matching 440-Cuda'engine too. The owner asked me first off what I was doing with the car....I said sunny sunday driver, 100% numbers matching resto, trailer queen. He suggested stock mopar parts by the book. She turned 425 lbs & 435 Hp on the dyno and I saved about $3,000.00 on bling bling. Asking questions is free and you are starting out right. BTW I supervise aircraft turbine engine rebuilds for a living.
 
Thx Brad426 (and Rumblefish too) Fantastic advice. This build is starting to come together piece by piece. I think i am leaning towards getting my shop to assemble the long block. (I'd enjoy doing it but... I think I'd prefer the piece off mind know it was done right).
 
Brad - BTW I supervise aircraft turbine engine rebuilds for a living.

Now there's a job ya can't screw up. The engine is expensive enuff, but the plane it powers........
 
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