360 engine core question

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Chryslerkid

Chryslerkid

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Are there bad years to use as far as 360’s go? I have an opportunity to purchase a very cheap ‘76 360 block that needs a full rebuild. I am looking at it as a potential streetable hot rod build. Assuming the block is not cracked, and is a good core, are there any down sides to this specific year that I should be aware of before the purchase? Also what is a fair price in your opinion for the core? I am just looking at it as a potential fun engine build.
 
If the block passes a crack check and has a standard bore, i would do a sonic check to see how far you can overbore it safely.
They are usually fine at .030 over, any more and i would seriously consider a sonic check to be safe.
I take it you just want the block and caps, so the crank, rods, and pistons don't matter to you.
For the block only, i would say that $200 would be a good deal.
 
As with everything location is everything.
I can get a running 360 out of a late 80's dump truck, with 120,000 miles for $250.
 
we bought short blocks pulled for $100 at the full service wreckers. They were arranged on shelves by maker. pretty cool...back in 1994! Mopar stuff is expensive around here, cheaper to buy a full motor than just a short block and heads now.
 
Prices around here for a running 5.9 magnum out of a truck w/30 day warranty is around $600-700 for something with 120k miles.
 
what they said about all blocks being mostly the same
but only bore as little as possible
most will clean up at .020
sometimes with just a hone
I've found many with factory hone marks and no ridge
not chevies
 
I am set to go buy this core for $100 non running. But yes I am only interested in the crank and block itself. Pistons heads and intake and Cal all being replaced. I will definitely get this block sonic tested prior to building.

Do you guys know if the 727 transmission from the same drivetrain will fit the stock ‘68 barracuda transmission tunnel without modifications?
 
Chryslerkid said:
I am set to go buy this core for $100 non running. But yes I am only interested in the crank and block itself. Pistons heads and intake and Cal all being replaced. I will definitely get this block sonic tested prior to building.

Do you guys know if the 727 transmission from the same drivetrain will fit the stock ‘68 barracuda transmission tunnel without modifications?
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That's a decent price for sure.
The 727 transmission will bolt in and clear the tunnel. You need one with a long tail shaft though, so keep that in mind.
They were installed by the factory on heavy duty applications.
 
Picked up the engine and transmission. Felt almost like I was going camping.
$140 for ‘76 360 core and 727 transmission pair.

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I have an original 318 car... will I have to modify my engine mounts to make my 360 fit? Or will it bolt right into the original k frame? For some reason I recall having to cut part of my k frame to make it fit??? Any tips or links for the custom mounts?
 
First off , get block sonic tested . Clean it , grind all casting flash off , clean it , do machine work , clean it . Get it ? there is a mount that doesn't require any modifications whatso ever . Get it ! You got a great deal . that's the cheapest part of the project . lol!
 
From the looks of the tranny, is it a sea green color?
If so it is possible it is a Chrysler rebuild.
 
383Scampman said:
First off , get block sonic tested . Clean it , grind all casting flash off , clean it , do machine work , clean it . Get it ? there is a mount that doesn't require any modifications whatso ever . Get it ! You got a great deal . that's the cheapest part of the project . lol!
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Sir! Yes sir!!!
 
Cuda416 said:
Prices around here for a running 5.9 magnum out of a truck w/30 day warranty is around $600-700 for something with 120k miles.
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Oh hell yes by comparison to around here at 500-600 a bare block.
 
Cuda416 said:
Prices around here for a running 5.9 magnum out of a truck w/30 day warranty is around $600-700 for something with 120k miles.
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"Running with a warranty " always costs 3 times what a mystery engine without a warranty does.

You could go to the wrecking yard and find the "best looking engine" in a car that has major collision damage, "assumed running fine and only ended up in there because of a wreck"

One should ask in this case what a warranty would really do for you, warranty to be a running engine... or warranty of it breaks... or just something to get you to pay more ...you decide.
 
Chryslerkid said:
I have an original 318 car... will I have to modify my engine mounts to make my 360 fit? Or will it bolt right into the original k frame? For some reason I recall having to cut part of my k frame to make it fit??? Any tips or links for the custom mounts?
Click to expand...
The drivers side rearward ear needs a mod to close the gap when using the 318 mount or you could chince it and use washers...lame.
 
Dartnut said:
If the block passes a crack check and has a standard bore, i would do a sonic check to see how far you can overbore it safely.
They are usually fine at .030 over, any more and i would seriously consider a sonic check to be safe.
I take it you just want the block and caps, so the crank, rods, and pistons don't matter to you.
For the block only, i would say that $200 would be a good deal.
Click to expand...
I've never sonic tested any std "360 block" before overbore.... now....340, 440,400, yes... but I've even bored a 318 to 4" without a sonic. You can really hear a thin cyl wall when boring it out rough before the hone....sounds like a wrapping noise...thin iron.
 
I give a limited lifetime warranty
come to collect
I ask
how long do you want to live?
 
MOPAROFFICIAL said:
The drivers side rearward ear needs a mod to close the gap when using the 318 mount or you could chince it and use washers...lame.
Click to expand...
What is the mod for that mount? Rather than using a bunch of washers. Cutting welding required? Or just a custom mount?
 
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