360 intake manifold gaskets?

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naus360scamp

naus360scamp

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please note im a newbie! so im having trouble sealing up my 360 intake manifold. I have tried several times now and cant seem to stop the leak, i use the two gaskets on the intake ports but i couldn"t find gaskets for the front and back of the manifold so i just have been using rtv....... :/ and that only works for a day or two then starts leaking again. Does anyone know where too get those other gaskets, or some trick, or do i make my own out of cork? thanks alot
 
Most intake gasket sets come with the cork gaskets for the end rails. Many include distributor 'O' ring and gasket too.
i just did a bunch of reading on the Fel-Pro Printaseal gaskets I'm installing on a 318.
I posted everything I learned in a thread here.
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=155432
As for your RTV not holding... other than proceedure I know of one thing that will push out fresh intall repeatedly.clogged PCV system. Hope this helps
 
I don't believe anybody uses those end gaskets, I believe they all use a generous bead of RTV. When you are doing it how long are you waiting before driving it? Basically are you giving the RTV time to set up?
 
dusted72 said:
I don't believe anybody uses those end gaskets, I believe they all use a generous bead of RTV. When you are doing it how long are you waiting before driving it? Basically are you giving the RTV time to set up?
Click to expand...

it was weeks. it was during the winter so i couldnt drive it and i was replacing alot of parts along with those gaskets
 
for all the work and trouble, get a set with the end gaskets...

good luck
 
Make sure the surfaces are clean. Any oil left prior to the application of sealer will not allow the sealer to adhere and will leak at that area.
 
Are you using the metal gaskets or the print-o-seal type?

Are you using an aftermarket intake manifold?

Did you remove the dowel/roll pin from the block?

Are you retorquing after a heat cycle? Are you torquing to spec at all?

It is advisable with the black RTV to give it a couple of minutes to start to set up before installing the intake manifold. Even with the intake torqued down there is a gap here that must be filled, so make sure your RTV is 1/4" thick at least.

Steve
 
LXguy said:
Are you using the metal gaskets or the print-o-seal type?

Are you using an aftermarket intake manifold?

Did you remove the dowel/roll pin from the block?

Are you retorquing after a heat cycle? Are you torquing to spec at all?

It is advisable with the black RTV to give it a couple of minutes to start to set up before installing the intake manifold. Even with the intake torqued down there is a gap here that must be filled, so make sure your RTV is 1/4" thick at least.

Steve
Click to expand...
i used edelbrock gaskets last time. and yes i have a edelbrock performer rpm intake. i dont have a torque wrench to torque to spec but i can tell you that none of the bolts are undertightend. i had no i dea i had to retorque after a heat cycle maybe thats my problem? and as for the rtv should i be using the black what do u recommend?
 
CLEAN the surfaces with acetone, paint thinner, other DRY solvent make ABSOLUTELY SURE the surfaces are CLEAN, oil free, and dry

Put a nice big bead, I'd guess about 3/8. THEN after you tighten down the manifold, examine the front / rear carefully. If there is some "sticking out" take your finger/ towel and smooth it "into" the gap. If none is sticking out, and there is ANY doubt that you have contacted and compressed the bead, ADD some out to the outside of the gap, and then, as above, "form" the bead.

I don't build very many engines, anymore. Back when RTV first came out, I built about 10 between my friends and I and NOT ONE leaked a drop.
 
naus360scamp said:
o yeah and idk what the dowel/roll pin is? explain or show pictures perhaps?
Click to expand...

In the middle of the front and rear rails there is a small pin driven in a hole to locate the intake. Actually the hole in the underside of the intake is much larger so the term "locating" doesn't mean its critical. If you use the end gaskets you need the pin to help hold the gasket in place. Using RTV alone on the ends, removing the pins and cleaning the holes will allow the RTV to create a finger hoding itself.
Those pins should pull right out of the block with pliers.
 
Lol.

I always use the CORK end gaskets and a nice smooth app. skim coat of RED rtv..I lay down the new intake/head gaskets, and apply a small amount around the water ports..I let the rtv start to get tacky....I extra dab the corners where the cross over ports are....I lightly coat the cork end gaskets and lay them down and line them up on the dowels...and grab the intake and gently position it to set it down as straight and even as possible...taking care not to slide either said cork gasket out of place.

Once set down straight....double check straightness and end gasket position...check for bolt alignments. START (1 turn) all intake bolts. Tighten down in 3 steps from the inside on both sides to the outside...evenly......estimated 2 ft lb first, 10 ft lb 2nd and 20ish ft lbs final.

Making sure the cooling system is empty from the beginning....make sure to remove your lower radiator hose prior to install so the coolant is well below the head decks.

Do an oil change before crankup so the coolant that spills wont contaminate and thin the oil.

Good luck.
I would seriously invest in a chiltons manual at Autozone.
Over application of RTV will end up in your oil pan and clogg up your oil pickup....ROFL @ 3/8" bead of RTV.....:wack:


Roller360May2010012-1.jpg
 
why are you using 2 intake gaskets?

if the intake is not sitting right on the heads with 1 intake gasket on each head, something is wrong and needs to be milled--unless those pins are still on the end rails.

You should check with a fleer gauge the front ports top and bottom, if it slips in between on either the top or bottom something needs to be done so the intake seals evenly with lite pressure.
 
RedFish said:
Most intake gasket sets come with the cork gaskets for the end rails. Many include distributor 'O' ring and gasket too.
i just did a bunch of reading on the Fel-Pro Printaseal gaskets I'm installing on a 318.
I posted everything I learned in a thread here.
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=155432
As for your RTV not holding... other than proceedure I know of one thing that will push out fresh intall repeatedly.clogged PCV system. Hope this helps
Click to expand...

Print-o-seal are great gaskets and if you get the ones that the part number ends with an S it have a steel core in the middle. Means it last "forever" without spiting. I do use a small drill and open up the intake heat exhaust ports cause I live in cool weather Michigan. Its only around $10 more for the steel core ones and Summit has them in stock.

They are re-usable also. I hi-tack the gaskets to the heads and install the manifold side dry, rtv the end rails and you can swap intakes all you want and get a perfect seal each time. If you need rtv on any of the ports to seal them something is off.
 
dodge freak said:
why are you using 2 intake gaskets?

if the intake is not sitting right on the heads with 1 intake gasket on each head, something is wrong and needs to be milled--unless those pins are still on the end rails.

You should check with a fleer gauge the front ports top and bottom, if it slips in between on either the top or bottom something needs to be done so the intake seals evenly with lite pressure.
Click to expand...

lol i use one package that has two gaskets, one for each side. not two on both.
 
Prine said:
Lol.

I always use the CORK end gaskets and a nice smooth app. skim coat of RED rtv..I lay down the new intake/head gaskets, and apply a small amount around the water ports..I let the rtv start to get tacky....I extra dab the corners where the cross over ports are....I lightly coat the cork end gaskets and lay them down and line them up on the dowels...and grab the intake and gently position it to set it down as straight and even as possible...taking care not to slide either said cork gasket out of place.

Once set down straight....double check straightness and end gasket position...check for bolt alignments. START (1 turn) all intake bolts. Tighten down in 3 steps from the inside on both sides to the outside...evenly......estimated 2 ft lb first, 10 ft lb 2nd and 20ish ft lbs final.

Making sure the cooling system is empty from the beginning....make sure to remove your lower radiator hose prior to install so the coolant is well below the head decks.

Do an oil change before crankup so the coolant that spills wont contaminate and thin the oil.

Good luck.
I would seriously invest in a chiltons manual at Autozone.
Over application of RTV will end up in your oil pan and clogg up your oil pickup....ROFL @ 3/8" bead of RTV.....:wack:


Roller360May2010012-1.jpg
Click to expand...

hey thanks alot but as for the chiltons manual i think would need at least two because my block is out of a 80s truck the body is a 71. but what do i know i cant even seal a manifold lol
 
did you understand, it might not be U but the head / intake aliment. The flange on the intake surface needs to sit flush with the intake gasket. No gaps on the top ports, no gaps on the bottom ports--not even .010 off.

I would lightly tighten the intake--5--10 lbs and use a .010 fleer gauge and try to slip it in on the front water ports, starting at the bottom of the port and working your way to the top. Chances are either the head needs milling or the intake needs milling to sit flush on the gasket

That is likely why the gaskets only last a day or so
 
[/QUOTE]ROFL @ 3/8" bead of RTV.....:wack: [/QUOTE]

Not so fast. The OEM metal gaskets crush to about .010 , the cork end gaskets are about 3/32 thickness and at least 3/8 wide at the smallest point.
A 1/4 inch deep by 3/8 wide bead of RTV should be sufficient there.

These Fel=Pro print-a-seal gaskets mightl crush to approx. .06 so the intake will sit higher off the block. The supplied end gaskets measure nearly 3/16 inch thickness so 3/8 X 3/8 bead of RTV isn't unreasonable there.
I layed the cork end gaskets on the intake and drawed their outline on the blck with a shapie. I also compared them to the bottom of the intake. This helped me see exactly where the bead of RTV should be centered.

I must admit that my beads were all of 3/8 wide but closer to a 1/4 inch deep. I didn't have a massive amount of RTV squeeze out either. Do I have a seal ? Time iwll tell.
Coolant system tester says it does hold water.
 
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