360 LA oil mods

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stroker_valiant

stroker_valiant

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I looked on the forum, couldnt find it. I am fixin to assemble a 415 stroker, I was wanting to do some mods to the head oil passages inb the lifter valley. I was looking at connecting the left and right bank so as to maintain constant pressure to my rockers. Does anybody have any info on this? Or at least point me to a thread on the matter?
 
stroker_valiant said:
I looked on the forum, couldnt find it. I am fixin to assemble a 415 stroker, I was wanting to do some mods to the head oil passages inb the lifter valley. I was looking at connecting the left and right bank so as to maintain constant pressure to my rockers. Does anybody have any info on this? Or at least point me to a thread on the matter?
Click to expand...

Do you have the book HOW TO BUILD BIG INCH MOPAR SMALL BLOCKS?

Go to Barnes and Nobel book store and get it. There are full details with pictures on how to modify the oiling system and more.
 
here ya go. got this from another site a while back.

B-RB ENGINE OIL MODIFICATIONS
The following suggested improvements for your BB oil system can be made at little or no cost to you. It is very important that you follow these instructions exactly.
Remove all five main caps. With an 8” to 10” long 9/23” drill bit, drill the oil passages from the top of the main saddle to the lifter galley on the PASSENGER side of the block to 9/32. Do not drill passages to the cam. Do not restrict oil to the rockers.
If you run a solid or roller cam, you should cut oil off to the lifters on the DRIVERS side of the block. On the rear of the block, remove the pipe plug on the driver’s side next to the camshaft. You will need a 19/32” freeze plug. Install the 19/32 freeze plug into the oil galley on the driver’s side of the block. Driver the plug into the block about 1 ¼” or until you can see the passage coming across the back of the block that fees the oil to the driver’s side galley. Clean and install pipe plug. Oil is now cut off to the lifters on the driver’s side of the block. The only way to cut oil of to the passenger side is by installing sleeves in each lifter.
Once all your modifications are complete, clean the block thoroughly, making a special effort on the oil passages. Using a Milodon #34010 brush kit makes this easier.
On a race motor, the only system that we recommend is the Milodon dual line system. It has been the standard of the industry for year. It is very expensive, but not nearly the cost of your race motor.



A ENGINE OIL MODIFICATION
In an A engine with a solid or roller lifter cam, we highly recommend installing the Chrysler P4120603 lifter oil block off tube kit. Regardless of whether you use a hydraulic, solid, or roller cam, we recommend the following modifications.
Purchase an 8” to 10” long 9/32 drill bit. Remove the main cape. Ion the mains number 1-2-3-4 there is an oil passage which goes from the top on the main saddles to the lifter galley on the passenger side on the block. Slowly drill these 4 passages to 9/32”. Cast iron is very hard to drill without the bit trying to hangup, so do not try to rush this job. If you happen to break the bit, you will have real problems.
Take your oil pump and rill the neck of the pump (the section between the rotor and the main cap) ½” Take a sand paper roll (the kinds used in porting heads) and go in the pump above the rotors and debur and slick the area above the rotors. You will need to slick the hole in the pump neck that you have drilled also. Drill to ½” the rear main cap where the oil goes through and polish with sandpaper roll.
You will need a 10” long ½” drill bit for the next step. With the rear main cap removed, look in the hole where the oil goes into the block. There is a 9/16” freeze plug which diverts the oil through the oil filter. Remove this plug by inserting a ¼” rod through he hold where the oil pressure gauge goes in the top side of the block. Drill the hole ½” up to the lifter galley where the plug was removed. Remove the oil filter and any adapter plates from the block. Remove the pipe plug from the block that is under the filter. Drill to ½” both holes that go from the filter to the passage that leads the lifter galley. Now remove the pipe plug in the rear of the block behind the oil filter and drill this passage to the center of the oil filter bolt ½”.
DO NOT DRILL PASSAGES FROM THE MAINS TO THE CAMSHAFT. DO NOT RESTRICT THE OIL TO THE ROCKER ARMS.
Once all passages are drilled, completely clean the block very well. We use Milodon #34010 brush kit to clean all the oil passages. Once the block is clean, replace the 9/16” plug that diverts the oil to the filter and the plug under the oil filter. If you make the above modification, you have greatly increased the volume of oil that fees the crankshaft and the bearings of your A engine.
We highly recommend the Milodon 10 quart oil pan with the swivel pickup. This system comes with a pump cover and a 1 ¼” rotor. Using the long rotor greatly increases the oil volume. The swivel pickup makes sure there is always oil at the pickup. Also use fully grooved (wide groove) main bearings. We do not recommend stock type oil pans that have been cut and deepened as these pans can run out of oil under acceleration or deceleration. They are not baffled properly. While the cost of a good oil system is expensive, it is not nearly the price of a new engine.
 
Everyone keeps stating that there is a freeze type of plug under the rear main cap. I have 4 blocks and I have inspected them all........NONE of them have this mystery Freeze Plug that I have. I do know that the R3 block has this plug and if taken out no oil will go thru the filter, but that block can be oiled all kinds of ways.......

Anybody??
 
So I just got done for the day on prepping the block, all oil mods. Under the front main, where the oil galley lines cross, we drilled the holes bigger there. I am running an angle oil adapter; we basically ported all the holes to reduce the hard edges, and opened them up in the process. Where the oil adapter stud goes into the block, huge restriction, made the hole deeper and bigger diameter. I was looking at what that article says about the pass. Side of the block to enlarge the size of the valley holes coming from the main saddles, plan on doing that Monday. Turns out I do have the big inch Mopar small block book. Also another Mopar book titled SMALL BLOCK A ENGINES. All of them are a good source. Thanks for the help!

Mad Dart, there is a freeze plug there, I’ll post a pic for you hopefully tomorrow.
 
Mad Dart said:
Everyone keeps stating that there is a freeze type of plug under the rear main cap. I have 4 blocks and I have inspected them all........NONE of them have this mystery Freeze Plug that I have. I do know that the R3 block has this plug and if taken out no oil will go thru the filter, but that block can be oiled all kinds of ways.......

Anybody??
Click to expand...

Sure they do. All small blocks have it. Unless it has been removed. In which case the oil from the pump will bypass the oil filter and the engine won't last very long. It's a real small plug, maybe a 1/4" diameter. Rather than try to describe it I took some pics of my freshly machined block that has the plug removed. You'll see in the first picture I'm pointing to the transfer hole in the block where it receives oil from the oil pump through the rear main cap. 2nd picture shows me inserting a rod and it goes all the way through the port and comes out where the oil pressure sender (or line) screws into the block on the top rear. The 3rd picture is of the back of the block that shows the intersection.
 
I see the hole in the blocks but none I have on the ground have the plug in them. 2 of them look like they have over 100,000 miles by the grease and road grime on them. I also have a 340 that came out of the Dart, I pulled the main cap on that one and there is no plug there either. I know that the oil filter was getting oil to it because I changed the oil several times myself before it came out. The bearings, rod and crank journals look like new. This also was a high mile engine.

????
 
Fishy, Nice explanation and Photos. I seen the plug in one of my books. I wonder why the ones I have all are gone?? They are all high mileage motors.

Does that plug come in the freeze plug kit or separate from it? I would think separate that is why it did not get replaced 3 in a row with the ones I have on the ground. Weird!!

I am wondering if it Really makes a difference? Being that the 340 I have looks practically NEW inside. Oil Pressure on that one before I took it out was about 35 at Idle and 65+ off idle and up? Maybe it has nothing to do with oil pressure? I know for sure it was getting oil in the filter and it was highly pressurized being that If the filter was not on tight, I would know right away!
This was also with the 90* adapter. FYI, I ran the DOGG SNOTTT out of that little 340, abused it like a long lost step child revving it to 7200 rpm every chance I got! And YES it pulled all the way up there!!

Anyone else have a Block laying around to see if the plug is there?

Anymore input on this PLUG??
 
1wild&crazyguy said:
Have to buy separate from the plug kit.

They all have them, if not, put one in.

They're hard to see.
Click to expand...

Now since I did not prep the block myself on the 410, I am pulling the pan and the main cap to make sure it is there! I have to pull the girdle on the bottom end also.......Oh well part of the game!!! I had the shop install the rods, pistons and crank and set the Girdle up on the bottom end before Line Honing the mains. There is no GRAVY TRAIN when working on these older cars.

I will swear to it in court!!!!!!!! haaaaaaaa
 
Ok, I guessi am done scarring the S:/-)(!!"T out of myself.
I ran a rod down the same way Fishy did and it stops before
it comes out the main. That little plug is alot deeper than
I thought it would be. I did the same thing on the 410 and
it measures the same distance before it stops also..

I am VERY glad I was soooo wrong on this one!!!
 
Mad Dart said:
Ok, I guessi am done scarring the S:/-)(!!"T out of myself.
I ran a rod down the same way Fishy did and it stops before
it comes out the main. That little plug is alot deeper than
I thought it would be. I did the same thing on the 410 and
it measures the same distance before it stops also..

I am VERY glad I was soooo wrong on this one!!!
Click to expand...

I was gonna mention that it's way down in there.lol

good deal though!:cheers:
 
Glad you found it. I was going to add in, if you have oil pressure, then the plug is in there.
If you have very little oil pressure, then theres no plug.

(For the new engine builder. This applies to rebuilt engines, not worn out engines.)
 
It's important that this plug be removed during cleaning or a lot of crap can get into the oil system. I have found multiple plugs there. My record is three stacked in one block because the "builders" simply installed the new one without ever taking the original one out.... Thye are usually part of the block hardware package.
 
Edit to OP - Stroker...
If you want full time oiling to the top end you dont connect the heads... You have the #4 cam bearing journal grooved. Although there is no reason to need this.
 
There are a few people that say do it, and a few that say dont mess with it at all. Is it really not the thing to do? The only downfall I could see would not being aware if a cam bearing were to spin (I forget which bearing, but the timmed one that feeds the pass. head), that would ultimatly save my expensive roller rocker then right? I allready have all the bearings, half grooved they are.
 
valvetrain doesnt need a lot of oil, and roller need less than stamped. Any oil not going to the main bearings in a mopar can be a problem because they dont feed the mains first. So I wouldnt bother. No reason to at all.
 
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