360 on the engine stand, now what do I do?

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360-68cudu

360-68cudu

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So I just picked up a 1975 360.:evil2: I know the block is .30 over I was looking for some advice. I want to build a reliable street driver spend as little as possible and make anywhere from 350hp to 500hp (is this even possible? and what should I expect.)


First of all I would like to know what kind of questions I should ask my machine shop. What we should be doing to the block and heads? (Things that get forgotten, tricks that may apply)

Second, what type of parts should I be looking for? Cams? Oil pans? Rods or Kits that you guys might recommend.

Thanks for your help guys it is truly appreciated!!!!
 
First thing you want to do is get it torn down, mark your main caps. Remove the freeze plugs. You will want it hot tanked, magna fluxed and if you need to do some bore clean up, have it sonic checked.

I would have the shop check the bore to see if it has actually been bored.
 
Build a late 80s/early 90s LA 360 roller block, you'll be miles ahead of your current block. I'd talk with a good machine shop in your area and sit down and figure out what you plan to do with the car. They can recommend what the output should be etc...
 
Badsport said:
First thing you want to do is get it torn down, mark your main caps. Remove the freeze plugs. You will want it hot tanked, magna fluxed and if you need to do some bore clean up, have it sonic checked.

I would have the shop check the bore to see if it has actually been bored.
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How many freeze plugs does a 360 have?
 
1970Duster said:
Build a late 80s/early 90s LA 360 roller block, you'll be miles ahead of your current block. I'd talk with a good machine shop in your area and sit down and figure out what you plan to do with the car. They can recommend what the output should be etc...
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I got this block for $50 and I just want something with enough power, reliable and a good sounding cam.

Besides I'm getting married in a year and after that it’s game over. :sad5: So the more I'm able to save the better. (This doesn’t mean I won’t spend. I'm just trying to cut cost where I can.
 
If its .03 over and worn, Can you go .04 over ? I dont know. I would want to know what the bores look like before I spent a dime on it.
 
There's a big difference between 350hp and 500hp you need to narrow it down a bit like pick a number + or - 25hp, 350-400hp ain't too hard. What the application? That's a better place to start than some vague power number.
 
273 said:
There's a big difference between 350hp and 500hp you need to narrow it down a bit like pick a number + or - 25hp, 350-400hp ain't too hard. What the application? That's a better place to start than some vague power number.
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What he said.

Also check your local pick n pull prices. A long block here cost $130+ $30 core, short block is $90+ $20 core. I don't know your prices but its worth it to go hunt down a roller block.
 
1970Duster said:
What he said.

Also check your local pick n pull prices. A long block here cost $130+ $30 core, short block is $90+ $20 core. I don't know your prices but its worth it to go hunt down a roller block.
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So what cars am I looking for? Year? And engines. I have a 727 tranny. The newer engine you’re talking about do they just bolt up? Do I need to pull the computer as well?
 
Going with a roller block means when you go to fire the engine no cam break in is needed. That removes a lot of risk. If you wipe a flat tappet cam you will be pulling the engine and cleaning all the metal out which is gonna cost a good bit of money, fluids, gaskets, oil pump, new cam/lifters, and more. Flat tappet cam, no, not for me, I don't need that type of grief.
 
340sFastback said:
Going with a roller block means when you go to fire the engine no cam break in is needed. That removes a lot of risk. If you wipe a flat tappet cam you will be pulling the engine and cleaning all the metal out which is gonna cost a good bit of money, fluids, gaskets, oil pump, new cam/lifters, and more. Flat tappet cam, no, not for me, I don't need that type of grief.
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Just currious 1970Duster & 340sFastback what type of engine are you guys running and what did you guys pull it from (that hook up to the 727).

what years & Models do I find these Roller Block in a pick n pull?
 
360-68cudu said:
So what cars am I looking for? Year? And engines. I have a 727 tranny. The newer engine you’re talking about do they just bolt up? Do I need to pull the computer as well?
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Yes everything from your current 360 will bolt to the roller block 360 because both are LA blocks. So a 727 will bolt up no problem. For what the motor came in, look for late 80s/early 90s (90-91) Dodge pickups (full size) and vans.
 
360-68cudu said:
Just currious 1970Duster & 340sFastback what type of engine are you guys running and what did you guys pull it from (that hook up to the 727).

what years & Models do I find these Roller Block in a pick n pull?
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I have a 340 block which I put a full roller setup in (cam, lifters and Roller rockers). I would have gone with a 360 roller had; 1. I'd known about them when I was looking for a motor/block. 2. I'd have gone that roller block had I not paid next to dirt for my 340 block (I paid $50 for 340 block because was all about Big blocks and Hemis).
 
360-68cudu said:
Just currious 1970Duster & 340sFastback what type of engine are you guys running and what did you guys pull it from (that hook up to the 727). what years & Models do I find these Roller Block in a pick n pull?
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I am running a '71 340 block with a retrofit hydraulic roller cam. The retrofit roller cam set up was around $900 just for cam and lifters. If you get a good roller block out of the junk yard you can most likely re-use the lifters and save a lot of money. If I had to do it over again I would have gotten a 360 roller block.
 
340sFastback said:
I am running a '71 340 block with a retrofit hydraulic roller cam. The retrofit roller cam set up was around $900 just for cam and lifters. If you get a good roller block out of the junk yard you can most likely re-use the lifters and save a lot of money. If I had to do it over again I would have gotten a 360 roller block.
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Great minds think alike :twisted:
 
350 HP can be done easy with a basic rebuild, headers and a 340 cam. Dead reliable with good mileage that will last a long time. Nothing fancy, nothing trick.
 
360-68cudu said:
1970Duster & 340sFastback

You guys are starting to convince me
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Also something to know about roller cams, They bring you into the power curve sooner and keep you there longer then a flat tappet cam period!
 
i havent had any problems or worries about breaking in a hydraulic flat tappet camshaft....imo, .its not THAT hard...ive done 4 of them...2 in the mopar small block and 2 in a chevy small block...:) smiling...:)
 
mopardude318 said:
i havent had any problems or worries about breaking in a hydraulic flat tappet camshaft....imo, .its not THAT hard...ive done 4 of them...2 in the mopar small block and 2 in a chevy small block...:) smiling...:)
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Yea but now you have to deal with that additive bs, no worries with a roller setup.
 
Money ahead,to find a roller block,set it up.Instead of buying $ 6.00 a quart oil,walk up,buy the $18.00 five quart jug of oil,every 3,000 miles.You have time till your married,maintence prices will be lower ,in the long run.Congradulations ,on your engagement.
 
1970Duster said:
Yea but now you have to deal with that additive bs, no worries with a roller setup.
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yea, that is true....i do have to put a bottle of zinc additive every oil change...maybe next time when i build another motor ill throw in a roller cam...but thats far away from now..
 
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