360 out of a 1977 RV

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mnghouse

mnghouse

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Just picked up a 360/727 out of a 1977 Dodge RV with only 55,416 on the clock. Can any of you help me with the cam specs? I have struck out trying to find them. I have a summit cam I am considering putting in it, SUM-6900 only if it's worth it. Putting it in my 88 RamCharger.

Thanks
Neil
 
One thing to watch out for on those engines....pull the valve cover and check the exhaust springs...see if they are using rotators for valve spring retainers...compare the intake to the exhaust....the rotators should be replaced with regular valve spring retainers...
 
I wil check it tonight thanks. Will I have to replace the valve spring if it has rotators? What if any additional parts?

Neil
 
If the engine is untouched then the cam is the standard .410/.412 lift with 252/256 duration used in all 2bbl 360's.
 
JBurch said:
If the engine is untouched then the cam is the standard .410/.412 lift with 252/256 duration used in all 2bbl 360's.
Click to expand...
LD 360 2bbls. There were 360 2bbls used in Super Coupes and towing package cars that got a different cam, I think it was the E58 cam those got. But on your truck and van donors that shouldn't be something that exists.
 
38 year old springs? Even with low mileage. You should always replace old springs for new ones when changing a cam. Even more so that the new cam has more lift. Springs are cheap. You can get a good set from Crane Cams, the people who made the cam for Summit racing.
 
I will look into the springs. The plan is to use a 272/288 dur, .421/.444 lift cam. Should wake it up a bit.

Neil
 
I would suggest advancing it 4 deg then dialing in the dist subsystems in order: initial with vac gauge method/total (initial+slots/no can) to 35 (weld slots or $25 FBO plate) then springs (toss heavy one with elongated loop & sub in a MR gasket or MP light one) then plug in/adj the can (CCW with a 3/32" allen wrench makes it come in slower). An E coil & tossing the ballast is good
 
JBurch said:
If the engine is untouched then the cam is the standard .410/.412 lift with 252/256 duration used in all 2bbl 360's.
Click to expand...


You're close... That's the early cam from 71-74, in 75 they changed it - not much but very slightly.... He has the second one....

71-74 360 cam is:

252°/256° duration
.410"/.412" lift

Int op: 16° btc
Int cl: 56° abc
Ex op: 60° bbc
Ex cl: 16° atc

Overlap: 32°


In 75 it changed to:

252°/252° duration
.410"/.410" lift

Int op: 18° btc
Int cl: 54° abc
Ex op: 57° bbc
Ex cl: 15° atc

Overlap: 33°

Per the factory service manuals...
 
Thanks to all. As normal this is an awsome forum to ask questions. Can't wait to see how it performs in my 88 RC ridin on 35s. The 318 that is in her right now I can grab the v-belts and turn it over with little effort. Thanks again all.
 
Rapid Robert, I do plan on advancing the cam timing.

70aarcuda, Thanks for the sprjng part number.

mopar3401987, not looking for a stock equivalent cam. Have the new SUM-9600 cam and lifters just sitting around. They should work out good in my RC. Ill let you guys know how it turns out. Waiting on parts, free time, and good weather for now.
 
Good luck! Advance of the cam gear,will help. Sound's ,like a decent combo.
 
mnghouse said:
The 318 that is in her right now I can grab the v-belts and turn it over with little effort. Thanks again all.
Click to expand...

That's a good winter engine...

They turn over better in extreme cold when they are a "little loose"....

LOL! :D
 
That Summit cam works pretty decent. As mentioned advance it 3-4 degrees for better performance. Those 360's had real low compression and advancing the cam helps build cylinder pressure. Recurve the distributor so you can run 14-15 degrees initial timing and 34-35 total and it'll run strong and probably get considerably better fuel mileage than in stock form
 
Intake and,v covers off and she's real clean. There is orange and green paint on the springs and green paint on some of the rockers. Can anyone tell me what it means?
 

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Post pics first, if possible.. Clean is good,the I.d number ( the last three ,works..). on head castings . Unless it's got aftermarket " hot rod " pistons, expect 8 to 1 with thin head gaskets upon reassembly.
 
mnghouse said:
Intake and,v covers off and she's real clean. There is orange and green paint on the springs reen paint on some of the rockers. Can anyone tell me what it means?
Click to expand...
it means there's been some head work.
I personally am not a big fan of RV motors. Most are over taxed : lets take this big @$$ RV and go to the mountains and here's a great idea - let's pull the boat along too! Now before we leave lets pack enough clothes, food, and firewood for the six of us for the nine days we'll be gone. Oh yeah, before we get on the highway lets fill both 40 gallon tanks and the 20 propane tank and while we're here lets just go a head and fill the 20 gallon boat tank. "Honey I'm going to run in the store and grab a 20lb bag of charcoal for the BBQ, I'll be right back". Well that was a great trip and we almost didn't make it over a couple of those mountains, but we groun out first gear for a half hour and made it !! Well we'll see how long it sets (a year? Two?? Three???) Before we touch you again !?? Ask me how I know . ...
 
Lol. The RV did not have a hard life and only had 55,416 on the clock. The engine is extremly clean, even the exhaust ports. There is very little build up throughout the engine. Ill look into the valve springs a little more. Might not have to replace them but might anyways.
 
is it me, or are those rockers on in the wrong order?
if I remember correctly the pushrod dimples should be closer together then the lifter dimples
it looks like who ever put this together swapped them

if they did that wrong...what else did they do wrong?
 
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