360 small block 73 dart

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If the pump is properly indexed and the TC is pushed all the way rearwards, it will stay there and you should have about 3/8 inch (or more) between the TC and the flexplate ears. Oh wait, that would be LA to LA parts.

I see you added some pics to post #1, or at least I didn't see them earlier.I see your TC is far enough back, in fact it looks to be too far.Does the starter pinion engage it fully? The LA ring gear is usually running closer to the front face of the bellhouse.
I can't see that Magnum flexplate working with the LA convertor. As you can see the TC stops when the ring gear hits the tone-ring. Does the TC come all the way in to zero clearance between them? It's kindof hard to judge from the pics. If you have to pull the TC in with the bolts, that would distort the flexplate, and I suppose, balloon it forwards into the engine, again it's hard to see from here.
I think that one or the other is going to have to be changed, and I would ditch the Magnum flexplate, since I can see you are running a regular mechanical-advance distributor.
 
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AJ/FormS said:
If the pump is properly indexed and the TC is pushed all the way rearwards, it will stay there and you should have about 3/8 inch (or more) between the TC and the flexplate ears

I see you added some pics to post #1, or at least I didn't see them earlier, I can't see that Magnum flexplate working, with the LA TC. As you can see the TC stops when the ring gear hits the tone-ring. Does the TC pull all the way in to zero clearance between them? It's kindof hard to judge from the pics.
I see your TC is far enough back, in fact it looks to be too far.Does the starter pinion engage it fully? I think that LA TC will have to go
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I just took the flex plate off the TC moved less the a 1/4 inch back I am going to turn the flex plate around to see what room I have.
 
If you pull it apart, post a pic of the rear of the block, should be obvious where contact was
 
You cannot turn that flexplate around, and still bolt it on; Firstly it is indexed to only fit on the crank one way.
It is currently installed correctly. You can tell by the receiver divot around the mounting bolt, and by the fact that the the tone ring will rub on the back of the engine,worse than the bolts ever did, and the upside down receiver divots would relocate the bolt-heads forward about another 3/32 and you could never torque them properly.
You can buy a proper zero balance flexplate and have it balanced to match what you have. If your Magnum is stock-balanced, you may be able to purchase a stock-balanced flat 904 flexplate. Hyup I think I have seen those
 
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AJ/FormS said:
You cannot turn that flexplate around, and still bolt it on; Firsylyit is currently installed correctly. You can tell by the receiver divot around the mounting bolt. and by the fact that the the tone ring will rub on the back of the engineworse than the bolts ever did, and the upside down receiver divots would relocate the bolt-heads forward about another 3/32 and you could never torque them properly.[/QUOTE
When I first put in I never checked if that was the right way to begin with and I looke around the center of the TP looks like I see a ring around it rubbing. I could have installed it wrong to begin with.
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AJ/FormS said:
If the pump is properly indexed and the TC is pushed all the way rearwards, it will stay there and you should have about 3/8 inch (or more) between the TC and the flexplate ears. Oh wait, that would be LA to LA parts.

I see you added some pics to post #1, or at least I didn't see them earlier.I see your TC is far enough back, in fact it looks to be too far.Does the starter pinion engage it fully? The LA ring gear is usually running closer to the front face of the bellhouse.
I can't see that Magnum flexplate working with the LA convertor. As you can see the TC stops when the ring gear hits the tone-ring. Does the TC come all the way in to zero clearance between them? It's kindof hard to judge from the pics. If you have to pull the TC in with the bolts, that would distort the flexplate, and I suppose, balloon it forwards into the engine, again it's hard to see from here.
I think that one or the other is going to have to be changed, and I would ditch the Magnum flexplate, since I can see you are running a regular mechanical-advance distributor.
Click to expand...
just read this post. There were no gap between the TC and FP. Should I push the TC back and then bolt it up?
 
AJ/FormS said:
If the trans is almost out, just carry on, we'll see what's what pretty soon.
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tranny is off but still under I got it stuck on the Ebrake cable and im just going to leave it but now it looks like its not hitting anything did not see any rub marks anywhere on the block

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Yeah,no, I just don't see those two playing nice together; you'll figure it out tomorrow when you start measuring things.
Make sure those crank bolts don't interfere with the TC, in addition to the TC actually sliding ALL the way into the trigger wheel. And as someone else mentioned, check your crank end play. And finally, peek-a-boo;make sure the drainplug wasn't hitting anything.
After the trans is pulled back,and the flexplate has been removed, you can inspect the cam plug boss for contact. I have seen the TC mounting bolts machine a nice little slot in there from side to side, and the cam plug started leaking engine oil into the bellhouse.
 
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AJ/FormS said:
Yeah,no, I just don't see those two playing nice together
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I have used that exact weighted magnum flexplate on probably 8 different swaps through the years, it will work fine if properly assembled
 
replicaracer43 said:
I have used that exact weighted magnum flexplate on probably 8 different swaps through the years, it will work fine if properly assembled
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If this should work what steps should I take now that I have it out just reinstall it?
 
when first installed I tighten the flex plate first then the tranny to block
 
AJ/FormS said:
Look for a recess or drilled access port, in the flexplate to accommodate the field-installed drainplug
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I put everything back together and when tightening the bolts the converter move forward looks like the same spot. Installed trans to engine then flex last. Made sure everything was on corrected and the right sequence.
 
Go back to post 35, and pic #2, and about center of the page but a little lower and to the left. There you will see the convertor drainplug. It looks to be below the mounting surface of the flexplate, but be sure. It doesn't matter with the oem LA f-plate.
 
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AJ/FormS said:
Go back to post 35, and pic #2, and about center of the page but a little lower ant to the left. There you will see the convertor drainplug. It looks to be below the mounting surface of the flexplate, but be sure. It doesn't matter with the oem LA f-plate.
Click to expand...

Oh I see. Yes I made sure that lined up with the holes on the flex plate. It’s open and you can access it.
 
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