360 street car Help

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Darthemi75

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I have a 360 engine, and i like to make a race street car.
My idea is to use my 340 heads 2.02.... with the RPM air gap manifold, but which is the best camshaft for my combination (in my garage i have mopar 284 and the 268 cam) or what other recomend me to use.
The other question is which piston i would need to make this car runs better (i think in 9.5 compression aprox).
 
I like the .509 MP cam myself, we've used it in a few motors and it's the next cam for my motor, just make sure if you're running an auto that you have a good, quality stall converter to go with it. The Air Gap is great, but look into the Air Gap offered by a company called I think Competiton Products or maybe Performance Products, some of the magazines have been using it on builds to save bucks and have really liked it.
 
You will want a flat top... I'd go KB107s. Run them at zero deck. don't make the chambers any smaller than 68cc. Run a cam like the H302-2 Crane, and it will be beasty street engine. SOmething like a 3K tight convertor and you're done.
 
I have a 360 engine, and i like to make a race street car.
My idea is to use my 340 heads 2.02.... with the RPM air gap manifold, but which is the best camshaft for my combination (in my garage i have mopar 284 and the 268 cam) or what other recomend me to use.
The other question is which piston i would need to make this car runs better (i think in 9.5 compression aprox).

A race street car is commonly called a "Street Strip" car. It can perform double duty. Drive the street and race at the track.

Camshafts are a fickle item and since you asked for a opinion, you'll get many in which all will claim ethier to be the best or a great cam to use with as many reasons as there are different camshafts.

Since a cam is part of the overall combo, the rest of the combo needs to be known so a suggestion can be made that is at least worth something as "Guessing" at one now is worth nothing.

Answer the following questions to the best of your abilty. The more you can answer, correctly and acuratley, the better a recomendation can be made.

What year, make and model car is it?
Tranny being used
Rear end gear ratio
tire size sought or wanted
What is the highest octane at the pump can you get.
Are you going to use the stock heads?
RPM band you want to operate in.
Example; 2000 - 6000 rpm or 3000 - 6500 rpm.

How far is to far for you? (Power wise and what conssesions are you willing to make?)
How fast do you want to go in the 1/4 mile?

From these questions, your answers help dial in what your looking for and what we can recomend. When I come back to recomend something to use, I'll give two answers for parts.
The prime and more expensive part and the general and cheaper part that will do.

OH, camshafts operate in a given RPM. Our older engine use cams that operate in a RPM and that is a set in stone thing. You can't really change the cam specs once it's ground in and in use.
 
My car is a Dodge Dart Sport 1975, rear end 8 1/4 posi 3.55, now i am trying to get a A-833, tires 255-70-15, i would like to use 95 octanes, 340 port heads 2.02 - 1.60.
I have a lot of doubts of what i need, i would like to now which parts i need to buy because here in Peru the parts are so difficult to import.
So if someone tell me a list of what i need to buy it woult be excellent:
For example:
Pistons, cam and manifold..
thanks
 
A good cam choice would be one of the Lunati voodoo series or a comp. cam,the mopar performance cams are old and outdated performance wise..intake wise the Edelbrock air gap is an excellent street/strip manifold..buy the "real" one..the other one is made by professional products and is nothing more then a cheap chinese ripoff!!!
 
A good cam choice would be one of the Lunati voodoo series or a comp. cam,the mopar performance cams are old and outdated performance wise..intake wise the Edelbrock air gap is an excellent street/strip manifold..buy the "real" one..the other one is made by professional products and is nothing more then a cheap chinese ripoff!!!
you could not be more wrong. cheap the the chinese are stupid they are not a year ago those intakes were 130 bucks now more like 170-180. I flow tested both on my super flow bench i got 30 cfm more with the chinese proffesiomal products intake than the famous air gap. most if not all edelbrock products are consevative at best. i know i race a ultra moded super victor on my 408 alcohol motor. as far as mopar cams go my buddy races those and he puts lot of people on the trailer with his supossed old cam grinds. comp cams suck( wipe lobs endlessly). as far as lunati are you some kind of chevy guy or what? i bet you have a gm one wire alternator.....hmmmm
 
you could not be more wrong. cheap the the chinese are stupid they are not a year ago those intakes were 130 bucks now more like 170-180. I flow tested both on my super flow bench i got 30 cfm more with the chinese proffesiomal products intake than the famous air gap. most if not all edelbrock products are consevative at best. i know i race a ultra moded super victor on my 408 alcohol motor. as far as mopar cams go my buddy races those and he puts lot of people on the trailer with his supossed old cam grinds. comp cams suck( wipe lobs endlessly). as far as lunati are you some kind of chevy guy or what? i bet you have a gm one wire alternator.....hmmmm

excellent points there!
 
Hemisuperscamp, easy on the name calling and belittling.
FYI, the Lunati cams offer very good ramp rates and they also out excell the MoPar purple cams ramp rates IF you order the right grind.

Stroked, he is right about the MoPar purple cams. They may be old and not updated, but they are far from a poor cam. They are still worth consideration.

Darthemi75, do not PM me with the response as your post since it would be a waste of our time. Also, don't worry about your English, itis better than many here that should have learned it in the schools they attended here in America.

As for your answer, a 360 engine response very well with the following parts;

A carb of 750 cfm flow rate.
A high rise dual plane. The Edelbrock RPM or Air Gap model is very good.

Perhaps someone elses efforts can be of service to you. Here is a link with several 360 build up's and there dyno results; http://www.geocities.com/alwest_83/dyno
 
you could not be more wrong. cheap the the chinese are stupid they are not a year ago those intakes were 130 bucks now more like 170-180. I flow tested both on my super flow bench i got 30 cfm more with the chinese proffesiomal products intake than the famous air gap. most if not all edelbrock products are consevative at best. i know i race a ultra moded super victor on my 408 alcohol motor. as far as mopar cams go my buddy races those and he puts lot of people on the trailer with his supossed old cam grinds. comp cams suck( wipe lobs endlessly). as far as lunati are you some kind of chevy guy or what? i bet you have a gm one wire alternator.....hmmmm

Chevy guy.. thats funny,i've probably forgotten more about Mopars then you'll ever know..comp cam suck..thats your oppinion.. i've used Lunati in three of my most recent builds with excellent results,and several other's i know have used them with excellent results too,from your reply here and on another thread sounds like you have a problem with Edelbrock..you got 30cfm's more from the chinese made manifold over the Edelbrock..:toothy10::toothy10::toothy10::toothy10:,excuse me for laughing but sure you did....
 
Hemi - a few things I find funny.. That price increase, has nothing to do with profit getting back to China. They still get the $.20/hr for labor. On the testing... if you got a 30cfm differnece in favor of the Crosswind, you have a problem with the bench or operator because the data is skewed. They are definately NOT an Airgap. They are smaller ports, with more port to port varience, and casting that plain sucks. Not to mention fitment issues due to the machining. Edelbrock is conservative in many things, mostly camshafts. Speaking of cams...I hear that "chevy" lobe BS every day. It must be nice to have a scapegoat for machinist errors...lol. If a builder is saavy enough, there is no mechanical reason for the cam to flatten. Also, one can find .904 special fast rate lobes from everyone except Crane. I usually use fast rate ford lobe designs for my cams, they take less valve spring, and make all the power I need. You'll also note the cam I suggested is a Crane...lol. That grind was new in the early 80s, and still makes serious power in the engines I've used it in. I've yet to lose a lobe due to cam or lifter manufacturer, and that is using some Comp .904 special rate lobes and Engle .904 special rate lobes. I have had to bush lifter bores, and swap around lifters to get them all to rotate... and of course take the extra time and care to measure those bores, and check for rotation... but no bad cams. MP cams are old designs that will work, but the quality control is now terrible which is why I don't run them. I gave up after having to move one 10° to reach the ICL on the cam card. The fact your buddy is a good racer means he wins. Not his MP cam has any real reasponsibility for extra power.
 
You'll also note the cam I suggested is a Crane...lol. That grind was new in the early 80s, and still makes serious power in the engines I've used it in.
I tell ya, people short sell a crane cam sometimes just based on what they see on a spec card. Bad move.
A great example is our own Mike Beck how runs way into the 12's with a 360 Duster and a cam that looks lame on the spec card.
214/228 - .454/.480 on a 112. Hey wait, I run that cam. YIKES!
 
Crane
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Crane was grinding cams before a lot of the other companies were even thought of! http://cranecams.com/?show=history

For example, Comp Cams....1977
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...but they do spend a lot on advertising though, and they are the self-proclaimed "leader in camshaft and valvetrain technology"!
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It's paying off! They got $300 from me in the early 90's for a set of rockers that never failed...to fail!
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I gave the 305H cam I got from them away in favor of a Clay Smith solid with nearly identical numbers on the card. The numbers under the hood were substantially improved!
 
If you have a 484 cam and what to run it... RUN IT.

A little tidbit from my experience with MP cams. In a SB like yours, the 484 will outperform the 509 everywhere except maybe the last 500-600 rpm of the range. It will have a nasty lope at idle and will burn your eyes, but, the 484 is a really good camshaft.

Here are some builds with different components using a 360 as a base. Look at package #8. That's a pretty stout build for a 360. If it was done at the local place the numbers are a bit happy, maybe 20 hp high compared to other dynos.
 
360 .030 over
1.88/1.60 974 iron heads with the valves cut back, bowl work
RPM intake
.484 Mopar cam
KB742 dish pistons 9.6cc (CAN'T CHANGE THESE ALREADY INSTALLED)
750 HP Series Holley DP
Comp Magnum roller rockers
TTI headers

How would this set up perform? HP? TQ?

oh! Heads would be milled to net 9.5 compression
 
360 - 380 HP, 400 Lbs. torque in a best case state. Oh, wait, .484 cam. Hummmm, add 20 to both figures. I thought it was the .474 cam.
 
Darthemi75, you gonna run that 284 cam?
 
360 - 380 HP, 400 Lbs. torque in a best case state. Oh, wait, .484 cam. Hummmm, add 20 to both figures. I thought it was the .474 cam.

Yes your are right Rumble.. I have the .474 in the motor now. I'm thinking if I change the intake and heads might as well change the cam to. Just one step up however.

I been checking somethings out on the CamQuest between heads and cams but I just don't know if I can trust their numbers or not. And I always hate guessing either.
 
I think with dished pistons I'd be looking for closed chamber heads, rather than anything open, and I'm sure a better cam can be found. If possible, bring the pistons proud of the deck to try and get some static ratio up. With the .484 cam, I'd be looking for a true 10:1 at least.
 
I guess it all boils down to "Your results may vary"....lol

Yes, I agree.

My comments about the cam are he appears to have it on the shelf. Hopefully it's an older piece.
 
Yes...i want ti use the 284 cam, with my 360 0.30 ...340 heads...2.02--1.60..rpm manifold ...but i dont know which pistons are the best for my combination...(i want something like 9.5:1)
 
ok, if you are using those parts... I'm not 100% positive on the intake closing point of that cam. So I guessed a little, but I'd go something like this: KB107 flat top hypereutectics. If the budget isnt flexible, keep the stock rods and resize with ARP bolts, internally balance it. If you can afford them, the K1 I beams are lighter than the factory rod and much stronger. It means the internal balance will be cheaper (no Mallory metaly needed). Have the block align honed, square decked to get the pistons to zero deck. On the heads, they need to have the chambers cut down to 68cc. That should give you 10.1:1 when using the Felpro performance .039 head gasket. You will also need to have the intake side of the heads milled too so the intake fits right. If you aim for 9.5:1 while using that cam, it will be sluggish, and have a poor idle quality. If you simply buy pistons and install them without verifying the chamber size, you will more than likely not reach even 9.5:1, even using the old battleship forged TRWs. That's how I'd do it.
 
I think with dished pistons I'd be looking for closed chamber heads, rather than anything open, and I'm sure a better cam can be found. If possible, bring the pistons proud of the deck to try and get some static ratio up. With the .484 cam, I'd be looking for a true 10:1 at least.


Thanks

The above set up in the trash can.
 
284° Hydraulic: P4120231
Intake Duration, Nominal 284° Exhaust Duration, Nominal 284°
Intake Duration @ .050” 241° Exhaust Duration @ .050” 241°
Intake Lobe Centerline 108° ATDC Exhaust Lobe Centerline 108° BTDC
Lobe Separation Angle 108° Overlap 68°
Intake Opens 34° BTDC Exhaust Opens 70° BBDC
Intake Closes 70° ABDC Exhaust Closes 34° ATDC
Intake Lift .484" Exhaust Lift .484"
Note: as installed on 108° centerline per Chrysler
 
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