360 swap questions

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bblock383

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Ok got a few questions. Basic info is 82 (haven't verified with date on block) 360 4 barrel going in a 66 barracuda. 2 questions about the swap. The original motor mounts are still on it so can I just use those instead of finding and modifying 273 mounts or buying Schumachers mounts? Also it has a shorty oil filter on it and I've seen this mentioned here or elsewhere that shorty filters may work if you don't have a 90 degree adapter. Also just for verification and I already know the answer to this but is it not true that a 904 will work just fine behind a stock 360? Even a modified 360 is still fine with a 904 up to 500hp correct? Some of the mopar "experts" here locally to supposedly race at the local strip are trying to convince people around here that 904s will break behind a 360 and they always do and the only option is a 727.
Anyway looking forward to your responses. Thanks
 
you'll need early a motor mounts for v8 and will have to modify of the 360 (narrower mount on one side).

i would go shumacher, as the OEM motor mounts are not easy to find and honestly, buy the time you find motor mounts, brackets, etc your getting close to the shumachers.

re oil filer, in think the OEM 273 pointed backwards, and probably needed for manifold clearance, although i don't remember what mine looked like before i took it all apart.

re 904, you will need a flex plate weighted for the 360, on power it can handle, cant tell you, but my feeling is it should be fine.

re
 
re 904, you will need a flex plate weighted for the 360, on power it can handle, cant tell you, but my feeling is it should be fine.

re
Unless hitting the 450 or better zone, don't sweat it. Actually you have the options : 1: a stock flexplate, and a 360 weighted converter. 2 a B & M pre weighted flexplate, & a neutral balanced 318/340 converter. I prefer a new torque converter in most cases, depending on your combination planned. That 904 thing,(correctly assembled) is an absolute myth. Stay 904, better off.
 
Schumacher is way too expensive. I have already located a set of 273 mounts so that's not a problem. The mounts on the 360 look alot like the 273 mounts so I figured unless the mounting points on the k members got further apart over the years which is always possible, then the stock mounts should work. I knew the adapter was for clearance but I was thinking it was so the filter didn't hit the fender well which obviously would make it impossible to change the filter. I think the 727 I have is from a 360 and it has the converter on it with the weights and all that. I thought you needed one or the other? Like the flexplate was needed if you were using a neutral balanced converter. Well this why I'm asking the forum. Also got a 273 drivers manifold sourced as well which unfortunately can be avoided unless I wanna make custom headers.
 
bblock383 said:
Schumacher is way too expensive. I have already located a set of 273 mounts so that's not a problem. The mounts on the 360 look alot like the 273 mounts so I figured unless the mounting points on the k members got further apart over the years which is always possible, then the stock mounts should work. I knew the adapter was for clearance but I was thinking it was so the filter didn't hit the fender well which obviously would make it impossible to change the filter. I think the 727 I have is from a 360 and it has the converter on it with the weights and all that. I thought you needed one or the other? Like the flexplate was needed if you were using a neutral balanced converter. Well this why I'm asking the forum. Also got a 273 drivers manifold sourced as well which unfortunately can be avoided unless I wanna make custom headers.
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Cool if you run the 727 / stock 360 converter setup, I have heard it's a very tight fit here. Only one way to go: Mock it up, slide it in, & clearance as needed.
 
I'd rather not use the 727 for a myriad of reasons but will of its the only option. What I'm trying to figure out is what's the difference on factory 360 mounts that it won't bolt the k member in the same spot as the 273 mounts? And whether or not I really needed that oil filter adapter or if just a shorty filter will work?
 
bblock383 said:
I'd rather not use the 727 for a myriad of reasons but will of its the only option. What I'm trying to figure out is what's the difference on factory 360 mounts that it won't bolt the k member in the same spot as the 273 mounts? And whether or not I really needed that oil filter adapter or if just a shorty filter will work?
Click to expand...

The difference between the 273 and 360 mounts is just the left side. The ears are about 1/2" different width. You can use shims to take up the clearance if you really want to, but the proper mount would be better.

I believe that you can just use the stock 68 340 left mount and it will bolt up and line up correctly.


You also need the correct oil pan to fit, here's a link with that information, see post #10 and beyond...

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=295405&highlight=360+oil+pan+early
 
I have succefully installed 360 in 66 dart!!! Love it. Very tight fit. I used 2002 Dodge Durango exhaust manifolds. They hit the metal tabs that stick out for the upper control arm, and also the steering shaft. Just got to fine the right spacer amount on the mounts,I use the 1966 stock 904,1966 stock converter and I have bout 400hp. Took it to track held up just fine.. Now may now last long but works within in the buget, I run dual exhaust 2 inch dump before the axle, radiator to fan... Very close, use 160 t-stat, and a must do the alternator gauge bypass!!!!!! Mine caught on fire!!!!!!! I converter my wire harness from points to box... Little confusing but just use common sense. Do front disc conversion! Oil pan just find front sump pan.... And make sure u oil pan sealed good... Not coming back out... Good luck.if you have any questions pm me
 
Oh and mount brackets all you do is weld a tab on the existing brackets just google there's a paper cut out, and the trans bracket to for dual exhaust... I cut my pieces out and took them to welder 50 bucks get them welded. Also for the trans kick down... There's a web site that converts it to cable, pain in the butt to install but worth it, just don't have a bracket to install on a demon. I just riged something to work!!!!
 
leblanc said:
The 904 might be fine but if it is built specially for tha amount of powerthen you will be worry free.
Click to expand...


Yep, put some quality heavy duty clutches and a shift kit in it, and you'll be fine... :burnout:
 
krazykuda said:
The difference between the 273 and 360 mounts is just the left side. The ears are about 1/2" different width. You can use shims to take up the clearance if you really want to, but the proper mount would be better.

I believe that you can just use the stock 68 340 left mount and it will bolt up and line up correctly.

You also need the correct oil pan to fit, here's a link with that information, see post #10 and beyond...

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=295405&highlight=360+oil+pan+early
Click to expand...

So what was the end all conclusion for where to get a pan and which pickup to use? Summit and jegs sell just a regular stock replacement pan for 52 bucks I was just gonna get that. I've heard the occasional one not being straight but hard to complain about having to pound a flange straight when your only spending 50 bucks. I've thought about seeing if anyone had a stock pan for sale but somehow I'm thinking it would be more than I could afford.
Also when you say there's a 1/2 inch difference in the mount, do you mean the space between the k member and the mount? Generally I assumed people used the 273 mounts because they already had them and it was cheaper to add a tab than go searching for 360 mounts.
Also is the oil filter adapter a must or can I use a shorty filter?
 
dickyeb said:
I have succefully installed 360 in 66 dart!!! Love it. Very tight fit. I used 2002 Dodge Durango exhaust manifolds. They hit the metal tabs that stick out for the upper control arm, and also the steering shaft. Just got to fine the right spacer amount on the mounts,I use the 1966 stock 904,1966 stock converter and I have bout 400hp. Took it to track held up just fine.. Now may now last long but works within in the buget, I run dual exhaust 2 inch dump before the axle, radiator to fan... Very close, use 160 t-stat, and a must do the alternator gauge bypass!!!!!! Mine caught on fire!!!!!!! I converter my wire harness from points to box... Little confusing but just use common sense. Do front disc conversion! Oil pan just find front sump pan.... And make sure u oil pan sealed good... Not coming back out... Good luck.if you have any questions pm me
Click to expand...

I would love to use better manifolds but with power steering I have 1 option. Not an option I like but is what it is I guess. Maybe sometime I'll buy some flanges and have a header made for better flow. It bugs me alot that the drivers bank of cylinders won't flow as well as the passenger side. I'll port the 273 manifold as much as I can but I don't think I'll be able to get down inside it very far to make a difference.
 
Use the Durango manifold... It's tight fit but breathes good... Sounds good..Heard it flows bbetter than 340 manifolds. Plus there cheep... I got my free from the scrap man. Just expect paint being burned off and rubbing unless u take care of the dimbles.
 
I would post pics but just took engine out due to not knowing what I was doin and not building engine right.... Hence high compression, stock valves, cast heads and demon carb!!!!! Don't be cheap when u want to put a 360 in a early a body, do it right the first time.
 
dickyeb said:
I would post pics but just took engine out due to not knowing what I was doin and not building engine right.... Hence high compression, stock valves, cast heads and demon carb!!!!! Don't be cheap when u want to put a 360 in a early a body, do it right the first time.
Click to expand...

Mine is already together so no worries there. The magnum manifold won't fit without changing out my power steering or going with an expensive aftermarket rod. I've heard of people trying to use shims to gain clearance but apparently it still had clearance issues just with something different. Also even if shimming it would work I'm worried about hood clearance issues.
 
As far as hood issue just can't run carb spacer on edlebrock rpm intake. Flat Intake you use a spacer, and exhaust manifold it is tight. But knock down the tabs on the passenger side inner fender, grind a little on the drivers manifold(not to much) and use bout two to three washer in drivers mount and just have a second person and just shift it till you find that sweet spot.and yes it's a pain but worth it.. Just use some high heat paint on the passenger side fender lots of heat.... The reason why I push the Durango manifold is who has eight hundred bucks for headers,there cheep mango old for good flow..... I deal with a little tight, high heat to save eight hundred buck on something that if you change ur mind on the body.....360 goes into anything, disc brakes in anything so on and so on. But that's my 2cents...
 
Correction--- hood clearance with air gap intake won't work with spacer. Regular rpm intake will work with spacer.
 
My engine came with a Weiand Stealth intake and Edelbrock carb. That setup probably isn't any higher than the factory one but clearance is tight even with my slant 6 in there. I put a half inch to an inch air cleaner spacer on there and it won't clear the hood. Also wouldn't making an engine sit higher in the car than it should mess with handling and weight distribution? Normally you want the engine to sit as low and back as possible. At any rate what about the 90 degree filter adapter? Can I just run a shorty filter?
 
Private message sent. I just completed a 1 year swap from a 318 to a new 360 with headers, 727trans, new custom drive line, new dana 60 rear end. I am both a "success story" and a "failure" at the same time (some serious problems along the way..but I just took the car for a drive..so i prefer to celebrate the success part rather than dwell upon the negatives..
 
Gold

Congratulations on the completion of your swap.

It seems you have lots you could ad to this thread, so I'd like to ask if there is anything you would be willing to offer those of us who have our ambitions virtually identical to Bblock383, like myself? I have great interest in this thread and what guys like you have done. Do the "failures" show themselves as you drive your car? What oil pan (number) did you end up using?

It would be great to hear any profound specifics, and maybe see some pics of your installation.

Best
 
Ok so when switching to a 727 doesn't the tranny mount change at all? Does it mount further back for a 727? Or will it being mounted to a V8 push the transmission back far enough for it to line up with the original location?
 
In reference to the oil pan issue....Early A oil pans have a relief in the pan on the right side to avoid the center link hitting the pan on tight turns. Hit a later model pan there enough times and you can wear a hole in the pan. Don't ask me hoe I know this.

Bob
 
RGP

What pan did you use on your swap that ultimately gave you trouble (which pan do we need to stay away from)? Are you currently in the midst of this issue, or have you solved it with a different oil pan?

Hope your damage was minimal!

David
 
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