383 builds for drag car

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rumblefish360 said:
The MP tips section is located in their big block engines book.
Stock rods can take a lot since they’re 4340 forged. It’s not the rpm that kills rods it’s poor timing or excessive pressure from detonation, turbo boost, things of this nature.

It would be best to get aftermarket rods because rebalancing and sizing rods is about as much never mind grinding on the rod to smooth it out and make it lighter along getting rid of stress risers (AKA Prone crack areas under extreme stress) & then getting HD rods bolts.
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Half of the stuff in the mp tips is unavailable anymore.
 
RustyRatRod said:
I know that's right. Ken Heard has some grinds real close at Oregon Cam too.
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Yeah mp knew how big their lifters are. I think that was the problem back in the day with other cam manufacturers thinking everything was a chevy
 
monc440 said:
My ultimate goal is a 9.99 car. I know I don’t have the budget to do that this year and I’m just getting back into racing. This year I want to build a car that I can afford and can have fun with. I will be happy if I could see low 11’s and would be ecstatic if I got in the 10’s.
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If you stay in 10s you won't have to tear that cage out and start over. Hopefully you're familiar with the nhra rulebook....it gets spendy to run that .001 less in et from 10.00
 
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MOPARMAGA said:
If you stay in 10s you won't have to tear that cage out and start over. Hopefully you're familiar with the nhra rulebook....it gets spendy to run that .001 less in et from 10.00
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Yea I know. Have nhra rules changed much in the last 20 years. lol

If I get that far it will not be the way the car is setup now anyway.
 
rumblefish360 said:
The MP tips section is located in their big block engines book.
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I guess I am getting old I forgot all about the engines book. I don’t think mine is going to be the best reference as I think I bought in back in 92 or 93. I don’t think the stage VI heads were even out get.
 
MOPARMAGA said:
Half of the stuff in the mp tips is unavailable anymore.
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There is a bunch of truth to that! HOWEVER!!!!!

It does give the list, all the part numbers are there, now it’s just cross reference time. What is not available through MP is available elsewhere. Supersede out old part numbers of the unavailable for new parts.

I don’t know what the Stage V or VI flowed OOTB or the iron heads ported ability was, but the VI does have listed flow numbers when ported by Chapman. So they are not just clues at that point and an equivalent head or superior can be used instead. Same for the intake, cam, etc….
That and any modern technique or part like, a newer intake, header, piston & ring , or anything else like that.
MOPARMAGA said:
Yeah mp knew how big their lifters are. I think that was the problem back in the day with other cam manufacturers thinking everything was a chevy
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I agree.
 
rumblefish360 said:
The MP tips section is located in their big block engines book.
Stock rods can take a lot since they’re 4340 forged. It’s not the rpm that kills rods it’s poor timing or excessive pressure from detonation, turbo boost, things of this nature.

It would be best to get aftermarket rods because rebalancing and sizing rods is about as much never mind grinding on the rod to smooth it out and make it lighter along getting rid of stress risers (AKA Prone crack areas under extreme stress) & then getting HD rods bolts.
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IIRC all stock rods (except maybe the Hemi) are 1018 steel, just like the cranks. The only 4340 rods I‘ve seen are in the DC/MP book.
 
PRH said:
My take on a stock stroke 383 is…….they’re reasonably cost effective up to about 500hp
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485 hp with an unported 906 head in none to shabby.
you built a perfect 383 combo without breaking the bank.
 
Actually, with the electric w/p, hot oil, and oxygenated fuel………it made 504hp:usflag:

But the 485hp set up was how it went in the car.
 
PRH said:
Actually, with the electric w/p, hot oil, and oxygenated fuel………it made 504hp:usflag:

But the 485hp set up was how it went in the car.
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11.18 @120 something @ 3550 #'s is what I recall.
capable of breaking in the 10's at 3200 #'s
 
It would have been a fun test to pull the heads, do a little porting, put them back on…….no other changes…..and seen how that impacted the numbers(both hp and et).

I could have picked up the intake flow 15-20cfm, and only made the heads a few cc’s bigger…….and had better C/D numbers.
 
monc440 said:
Ok I’m starting to put together my game plan for the engine build for my 72 Duster. I have built 383’s and 440’s in the past and like them both. I’m leaning towards building a 383 and wanted to hear from you guys on what kind of ET’s you have been able to achieve with a similar combo.

The car has been stripped of all interior. Has fiberglass hood, fender's and deck lid. The hood and deck lid hinges and springs have been removed. Still has all the factory glass. Stock front suspension. Has super stock springs 8 3/4 with 4.56 gears and spool. Has 13.5 x 28 slicks. The guy told me it was a 10:50 car with a mild 440.

So far for the engine I have a set of stage VI heads. The heads are as cast but I plan on polishing the ports. One reason I’m leaning towards the 383 is I think the heads will flow enough for the 383 but might be a restriction on a 440. I have an idea of the engine I want to build but I would like to hear what kind of times you guys have been able to get with a 383 in a similar car and what was your engine specs.

Thanks

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I have a bunch of hand-me-down loose parts that can get you as fast as you want to go. A few different motor options etc. Specifically, where in Michigan are you located?
 
Find a copy of Don Dulmage's book "Old Reliable The Practical 440 Race Motor" and emulate it with a 383.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Find a copy of Don Dulmage's book "Old Reliable The Practical 440 Race Motor" and emulate it with a 383.
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I have used Don’s formula for Old Reliable before. I stumbled on Don’s book years ago when I was trying to get a Weiand six pack tunnel ram to work on my 63 Fury. Talk about a guy determined to make something work. I never did get the old 6 pack tunnel ram to work better than my TM7 but Don did with a ton of mods.
 
In all my years I’ve never had a ‘goal’ for an engine. Take what you have, buy the parts you need for racing and run it. Generally a 440 will make more HP if same parts on each, but torque will give better times. My 383 in a 70 Duster went 11.6s at 118. .030 over TRW 11.5s, stock 915 heads, 509 cam, torker intake 3310 carb, Hooker fender wheel headers with 12” extension, street Hemi vert, 4.88 8-3/4, 10.5x29 slicks. Simple but tuned right.
 
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