383 Exhaust

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howco4

howco4

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I just picked up the 383 for My Dart Swinger yesterday. It came without exhaust manifolds. I'm starting from scratch with the exhaust, so I'm looking for some input. Wondering what would be a resonable exhaust setup for the conversion? I do have a set of 440 manifolds, but I suspect there would be clearance problems. The car was formerly a 318 with manual steering. Thanks for any help. Howard (trying to avoid fenderwell headers).
 
Well, there are factory 383 A-body manifolds for this setup, as the 383 was available in '67,'68 and '69 in the A-bodies. They're kind of expensive but do show up on Ebay sometimes. Then, I believe ,TTI sells under-chassis Big-Block A-Body headers, but ,again, not cheap, but good quality.

There is the possibility that the late 60's/early '70's C-Body big block driver's side manifold will fit this setup, but I have not seen it personally. Someone else on the site may have more info here.

Thats all I have....
 
There is no difference between a 383 and a 440 manifold
 
Sorry....it's my B body background flaring up again

guess I better put some salve on it lol
 
There are factory manifolds for that application,,hard to find,,very expensive and very restrictive on one side. TTI's are a grand, sit very low and are tough to install. Schumakers are made by tti, instal in minutes but flow less than a tti. If you are after more than about 530hp than the TTIs are you only choice IMO, less than that then the convenience of the schumakers is great. Here are the schumakers on a 69 383 at close to 500hp that is going in a duster

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Thanks for the great input. I gave the Schumacher outlet a call. They gave me a lot of good info. Trying to do this at a medium roar, as far as money is concerned. I don't know a lot about my 383, other then it has has a recent rebuild, ( I suspect fairly stock). The different varieties of manifolds for the 383 are getting fairly confusing. Looks like hedders will be the best option. Like the pic's of the engine. Will do my engine in slver/ grey and black. Howard
 
Jims71duster said:
There are factory manifolds for that application,,hard to find,,very expensive and very restrictive on one side. TTI's are a grand, sit very low and are tough to install. Schumakers are made by tti, instal in minutes but flow less than a tti. If you are after more than about 530hp than the TTIs are you only choice IMO, less than that then the convenience of the schumakers is great. Here are the schumakers on a 69 383 at close to 500hp that is going in a duster
Click to expand...

I have a 383 in the shop right now being built for my 70 Duster and have been looking for the exhaust solution... how much did the Schumacher Headers cost you? I looked up the TTI and they were aobut a grand... waaaay more than I need to pay. Thanks
 
I have used the 68-70 B body HP manifolds for both 440 and 383 A-body swaps. What you used to pick up for $25 are now $200 or so a set but a viable alternative for a moderate street car. If using on a 440 swap you usually have to clearance (read as grind) the drivers side manifold where it tucks in so you will not rub on the steering shaft. The bend around the starter is tight enough that you usually have to make it from two pieces unless you have mandrel bends. It is still a rather simple install though.

HTH

Belden
 
dragonballz993 said:
I have a 383 in the shop right now being built for my 70 Duster and have been looking for the exhaust solution... how much did the Schumacher Headers cost you? I looked up the TTI and they were aobut a grand... waaaay more than I need to pay. Thanks
Click to expand...

yer in the states so I'm guessing the uncoated ones will be about 550.00 Go with the uncoated until you break in the cam, then get them coated after.
 
68 Sedan said:
There is no difference between a 383 and a 440 manifold
Click to expand...
Actually there is for A bodies. The passenger side is the same but there are two different driver's side manifolds. One for 383 and one for 440.
 
The B-body can fit without grinding if building a DC K-frame and test fitting the motor/manifolds before final welding. Built two DC K-frames with measurements from an original. They fit fine in a '67 Barracuda, but not in a '69 Dart. We're only talking about 1/8" to 1/4" of interference, so just a little nudge here or there is needed to fit. You do need to cut back the outer steering shaft and slide the bearing up. I'm trying to see if I can get column shift to work with this set-up now. My Ultrabell just came in for the A-518 and I'm waiting for my 2000# scale to show up so I can compare before and after weights from small block to big block before I start. Very little clearance, so tolerances are tight, but it is the best solution if you don't want headers.
 
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