383 in work...slowly, but in work

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txstang84

txstang84

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For the folks that have replied to my previous posts, thanks-I appreciate your replies and assistance. So, I have made *some* progress...albeit minor. Here's the latest:

I have the engine torn down. It will need an overbore, and I was looking at KB 162 slugs since they're about the only ones that have decent valve reliefs, aren't terribly expensive, and come close to the deck without much shaving. The crank looks good, as did the bearings when they came out, but I'll let the machinist figure out if it actually needs anything other than polished. The rods also look good and will be treated to some ARP bolts...duh.

I found some valvetrain parts on the classifieds here--Crane roller cam, adjustable ductile rockers, and COMP springs with retainers...should be perfectly fine to run the cam. My only issues with that will be paying $90 [ouch!] for the specially treated oil pump driveshaft gear from Crane since it's either that or a bronze gear...unless folks on here think it would be perfectly fine to run the bronze one...then the choices get a little less costly. I intend to use a stock type oil pump, but modify the oil galleys with MRLs oiling mod along with using their roller lifters.

Onto the heads-found a set of 915s from eBay, and I intend to toss some bigger valves and maybe hardened seats with a 3 angle vj and back cut the valves. If any porting, probably just the bowl for cleanup purposes. As for induction, Edelbrock RPM has never let me down in the past on any engine combo I've assembled, so that'll sit atop the heads and for now a 600cfm Summit carb will feed it...obviously subject to change-possibly MSD or FAST EFI...dunno yet

I only intended to run a stock dizzy for the time being unless I need to recurve it with some lighter springs or something...

And for exhaust, right now, I'm looking at the Schumacher tri-ys and exhaling through dual 2.5" courtesy of Summit.
 
So, I hate you guys....not really, but after reading a BUNCH of posts about big blocks with solid cams, I'm starting to lean that way. The purpose of the car hasn't changed really...I still plan on having it as a weekly cruiser, maybe some strip time. I bought the 915s off eBay and still want to put bigger valves in them with some mild porting, but again, the more I read, the more my eyes are shifting toward a set of Stealth heads prepped by one of the gurus on here, or a set of Edelbrock E street heads with some seat cleaning.

I have the old school adjustable ductile rockers, and a set of springs-pretty sure I scored those from physixx a few months ago-not sure on the numbers on them, but they're doubles with a damper, so I'm gonna make a WAG they can support some bigger cams.

Any ideas for recommended solid grind, y'all?
 
I have a 383 short block that i'm gonna start building for my Duster this coming winter.
It's already bored .030 over and i have a Mopar Performance 509 lift cam that i'm gonna use, from what i read on BigBlockDart it's a good street cam.
For headers i'm gonna use Schumacher Tri-Y's, i still have alot of parts to buy before i can even begin working on it.
 
Well, I have about 4 years before I can really "dig in" since I'll be out of CONUS. So, I guess you could say I'm getting a head start on gathering parts, lol
 
Brilliant-heard a few of those old tales of beating up valvetrain a few times before...had to ask.
 
Nope, not so as long as you talk to whichever cam company and let them know it's gonna be street driven. Ask if your choice will be safe in a street car. "Street rollers were what they were called years ago but I think pretty much now everything is ok for the street unlless it specifies race only.
 
So after some him-hawing with my Dad about how to build this 383, I decided to go a different direction as mentioned in another thread regarding max wedge heads on a B block.

I decided to drop the engine in his '84 Ramcharger. The build will likely be the same as what was mentioned in the first couple posts;

Zero decked KB 162 flat tops
Crane hyd roller I sourced off here (284/292--222/230@050--509/528--112LSA)
915 heads with new valves, springs, etc, competition valve job and maybe some light bowl and port work
RPM intake
750 or smaller vacuum secondary carb, depends on what the engine likes
1 3/4" long tubes 2.5" duals
2500 stall
9 1/4" rear with 3.55 or 3.92 gears-haven't decided yet...

I figure it'll be fun to drive around :) ...even if it is a gas hog
 
your gonna love the 383. i built mine over 10 yrs ago. it sat on a stand up until about 6 months ago. i was very surprised at how hard it runs. bone stock 9:1 bottom end with ported eddy heads, m1 intake and TTI headers. running a solid lifter mech. cam and the thing loves to rev. i shift it at 6800 and she is still pulling. it has impressed everyone that has been in the car. im guessing im making an easy 450hp.



[ame]http://youtu.be/ovfE81ZxH2k?t=2m38s[/ame]
 
younggun2.0 said:
your gonna love the 383. i built mine over 10 yrs ago. it sat on a stand up until about 6 months ago. i was very surprised at how hard it runs. bone stock 9:1 bottom end with ported eddy heads, m1 intake and TTI headers. running a solid lifter mech. cam and the thing loves to rev. i shift it at 6800 and she is still pulling. it has impressed everyone that has been in the car. im guessing im making an easy 450hp.



http://youtu.be/ovfE81ZxH2k?t=2m38s
Click to expand...

Sounds like a winner to me-that thing still sounds awesome to me. I'm sure it'll run pretty damn well even in a Ramcharger
 
txstang84 said:
I take it you'd also recommend cutting the guides down to accept Teflon seals, correct? I'd thought about doing both when the heads go out to get worked...
Click to expand...
Absolutely, I'd also open up the oil pickup to 1/2".
 
Copy that-I'd also planned on doing the full time rocker oiling mod suggested by MRL...

What alls involved with the enlarging the oil passage to 1/2? Just take a bit to it?
 
It's detailed in the MP engine book, but basically drill and tap and smooth out the inner radius.
 
OK, since the 383 is now repurposed to an '84 Ramcharger, and I've contemplated swapping to a different cam, would any of you guys think it wise to run a street hemi purple shaft grind, or would it be a complete mismatch? I was thinking about using the solid version since I will have adjustable rockers (after some research, I'm pretty sure they're Crane ductile iron).

I still plan to use a stall, I'd like to keep it below 3200 if possible, and I'll probably go with 3.92 gears in the 9 1/4" out back, since SG pull outs are available for them for good prices.

Vehicle weight is probably about 4500-4700lbs empty...not 4WD
 
I love 383 A-body stories! That's my plan for my Scamp. I have the motor, trans, and I already installed the 8.75 in the car. Just trying to save up some dough...
 
clinteg said:
What he did with his combo works. I would use his as a baseline or reference motor. That car seems to scream more than what you think it would by looking at the specs on paper and imagining how it might run.
Click to expand...

Oh I've talked to him a bit and greatly appreciate his input, but since the engine is going in a bit heavier package I still like to solicit other opinions.

EDIT: younggun recommended I look for better pistons should I decide to go forged. He also strongly recommended to pay attention to all the details, like zero decking, matching the cam to your parts, etc.

The more I look into pieces and their capability, the more I want to run a solid cam, good forged pistons (since it'll be moving a heavier vehicle), 1 7/8" headers, probably a 750 vacuum secondary or AVS carb, RPM intake, and after much searching on here, probably a dynamic converter...stall of course is depending on the cam
 
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